Information for Charging A/C on 86??
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
Information for Charging A/C on 86??
Does anyone know how to charge the A/C on a 86? Also where to find the old stuff to charge it? If you have to convert how do you do it and how bad is it?
Just not coming out as cold as it used to, but then again its never been charged in 25 yrs, has 31,000 miles on it.
Thanks
Just not coming out as cold as it used to, but then again its never been charged in 25 yrs, has 31,000 miles on it.
Thanks
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: hampton nh
a/c recharge
im a newby on the site. epa laws in 1994 and newer went to R134A refrigerant. prior to that R12 was used. nfortunately you cannot buy R12 without an EPA certificate. you would have to go to a garage or some one in the trade to even put it in if they have it. the oil in a R12 compressor is mineral based and for the R134A is a synthetic PAG oil. they are NOT compatible with each other.
I have herd stories that all u have to do is add the pag oil. I do not believe that at all because of the differant oil caracturistics. back in those days u were supposed to replace the metering device, drain the compressor oil, replace the drier, deep evacuate and charge the systemalong with replacing with pag oil.
so as not to get any misinformation, you should contact a chevy/ gm dealer parts to verify if a kit is or was available. if you have never done any of this type of repair, you should get someone that does. the new charge should be weighed in. you could overcharge the system and damage not only the compressor but rupture lines, condenser or evaporator. last time i priced R12, 6 years or soy cost was apx.$30.00 a pound. PS. im a hvac mechanic 35 years. hope this info helps.
I have herd stories that all u have to do is add the pag oil. I do not believe that at all because of the differant oil caracturistics. back in those days u were supposed to replace the metering device, drain the compressor oil, replace the drier, deep evacuate and charge the systemalong with replacing with pag oil.
so as not to get any misinformation, you should contact a chevy/ gm dealer parts to verify if a kit is or was available. if you have never done any of this type of repair, you should get someone that does. the new charge should be weighed in. you could overcharge the system and damage not only the compressor but rupture lines, condenser or evaporator. last time i priced R12, 6 years or soy cost was apx.$30.00 a pound. PS. im a hvac mechanic 35 years. hope this info helps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Stay away from PAG oil the stuff is evil. Ester oil works well with 134 & is compatable with mineral oil.
Lately I have been using ES12a instead of 134.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
Johnven, Sounds like the system just needs a bit of freon. You should be able to find a shop that will top it off for a nominal fee. 12 is also available at the worlds on line auction.
If your anywhere near Chattanooga I can service the AC.
In the meantime if you have not hosed off the AC condenser lately it will help the system run more efficently.
I'm **** about clean condensers & hose the home condensers yearly.
Lately I have been using ES12a instead of 134.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
Johnven, Sounds like the system just needs a bit of freon. You should be able to find a shop that will top it off for a nominal fee. 12 is also available at the worlds on line auction.
If your anywhere near Chattanooga I can service the AC.
In the meantime if you have not hosed off the AC condenser lately it will help the system run more efficently.
I'm **** about clean condensers & hose the home condensers yearly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Your license can be obtained here: www.epatest.com - then buy all the R12 you want but watch out for the recycled stuff. I'd get it leak tested first so that you can fix whatever made it leak out. Usually that costs more than any gas you cram into it so fretting about $30/lb R12 isn't worth the worry.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Your license can be obtained here: www.epatest.com - then buy all the R12 you want but watch out for the recycled stuff. I'd get it leak tested first so that you can fix whatever made it leak out. Usually that costs more than any gas you cram into it so fretting about $30/lb R12 isn't worth the worry.
if so, I might go back !
last time I looked it was $75+.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Actually I don't know because I have no use for it and if I'm buying refrigerent it's R22 for my home unit. However, other than enthusiasts; few want it (R12) so the golddiggers can keep digging. When I last needed it, I got it at Autozone which was dumping it on the cheap - $14 to $15/12 oz can after they figured out that it wasn't worth the millions they thought they'd reap by stockpiling it. I bought 5 or 6 cans which left with me with a couple of spares. NAPA told me they still had 30 lb jugs the last time I was there - about a year ago for brake pads - but what do you do with 30 lbs of the stuff? The skinny in this town is that most of what we have comes across the Border. It was $3/can 10 years ago at NAPA in Tijuana and to me, it's not worth the risk of getting shot or put in jail, though the stuff does have "Dupont" on the can, so it's may be better than what some Craigslist scammer will try to sell it to you for. A quick GOOGLE shows a $61 30 lb jug on E-Bay - that's probably too good to be legit - and 4 cans, I presume 48 ozs, for $135.89 which is about 45.30/lb. That will do any Vette and considering what a rebuild costs (doing it yourself) still the cheapest part of the whole deal.
Slingshot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,817
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Actually I don't know because I have no use for it and if I'm buying refrigerent it's R22 for my home unit. However, other than enthusiasts; few want it (R12) so the golddiggers can keep digging. When I last needed it, I got it at Autozone which was dumping it on the cheap - $14 to $15/12 oz can after they figured out that it wasn't worth the millions they thought they'd reap by stockpiling it. I bought 5 or 6 cans which left with me with a couple of spares. NAPA told me they still had 30 lb jugs the last time I was there - about a year ago for brake pads - but what do you do with 30 lbs of the stuff? The skinny in this town is that most of what we have comes across the Border. It was $3/can 10 years ago at NAPA in Tijuana and to me, it's not worth the risk of getting shot or put in jail, though the stuff does have "Dupont" on the can, so it's may be better than what some Craigslist scammer will try to sell it to you for. A quick GOOGLE shows a $61 30 lb jug on E-Bay - that's probably too good to be legit - and 4 cans, I presume 48 ozs, for $135.89 which is about 45.30/lb. That will do any Vette and considering what a rebuild costs (doing it yourself) still the cheapest part of the whole deal.
Still works great this summer in 100 degree temps. Thanks again, Suncr, for your help.
P.
