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I just finished my injector swap and have now developed the "idle" issue.
1986 L98
Bosch III injectors from FIC
After install I reset the IAC per manual (I have no scanner) and checked the TPS (.548 vdc at idle, 4.49 at WOT) settings to insure they were correct. I left the negative battery disconnected for at least 10 minutes to alow for reset and used a propane torch to sniff out any vac leaks.
Funny thing is, after a 10 minute drive the idle will hold steady at 700 rpm, but on initial startup it starts hunting from 600 to 800. I have suspected long before this that I was having IAC issues, and have cleaned it, but I notice when I let off the gas it takes several seconds for the engine to settle from say 1500 rpm to idle speed.
Anybody got any tips to throw out of what I may have missed?
did it hunt prior to the work? did you run it before you adjusted it and after the new injector install? and did you make a note of the readings prior to adjusting it, and can you get it back to where it was? and did you remove the runners and renew the gaskets or did you just loosen thing up so you could get the fuel rail out? did you replace all the o-rings? and on and on and on. I vote, put the settings back where they were and start from there.
Removed runners and installed ALL new gaskets and o-rings.
Before injector install the idle would occasionally fluctuate between 600 and 800 rpm, but was smooth. Now it will fluctuate between 600 and 800 and is rough running.
I just pulled codes and got a code 44 (lean exhaust). I cleared the codes, verified there was no code 44 stored and took it for a 10 minute run. It set code 44 again. It seems to run worse with the MAF disconnected, I still need to get it jacked up and verify the O2 sensor as well, but It looks like it still has the original MAF in it. I am leaning toward a bad MAF, but am always open to the wise suggestions from the group here.
Have you checked the vacuum hoses, they are the NBR 1 cause of idle problems.
Yep. Used propane method at all hoses and gasketed areas. No joy. Just finished reading up on code 44 and it sounds like there are several things I need to check out from fuel pressure, exhaust leaks, MAF, o2 sensor and god forbid, an ECM problem. But as always I am open to past experiences and suggestions.
that switch up by the A/C compressor, did you get it plugged back in and that little mess of vacume hoses back where they belonged?
I'm not sure what you are talking about, but I will definatley take a look.
My plan is to test fuel pressure in the morning. It is possible that with new injectors and what is probably a old scruddy plugged up fuel sock, I just might not be getting enough fuel. I know the pump is firing as I can hear it at key on.
not to flog a dead horse, but if it ran fine before you did the work, there's a pretty good chance the problem is with something you did , didnt, or forgot. get some sleep, it will probably be starin right at you in the morning.
not to flog a dead horse, but if it ran fine before you did the work, there's a pretty good chance the problem is with something you did , didnt, or forgot. get some sleep, it will probably be starin right at you in the morning.
I think you are probably right Oldalaska. I'll update my findings tomorrow.
On a short note, you cleaned the TB and the IAC, how long ago was that?
I did that too, but still no luck, replaced the IAC, then it was OK.
Not saying it is your problem, but might be.
The symptom that really bugs me is it keeps setting a code 44 (lean exhaust) and after hovering over the engine while running you can definatley tell that the ecm is increasing fuel to compensate.
I have pulled and plugged vac lines all morning and nothing seems to make any difference. Re-ran the propane test 3 more times to no avail. Code 44 could be a fuel pressurre problem. I am going to have to locate a pressure tester. I just shut down and manually operated the schrader valve and got about an eight inch fuel shower, but that is not exactly scientific . It could also be the o2 sensor, but that would be a heck of a coincindence. Still checking and rechecking every thing from yesterday.
The symptom that really bugs me is it keeps setting a code 44 (lean exhaust) and after hovering over the engine while running you can definatley tell that the ecm is increasing fuel to compensate.
I have pulled and plugged vac lines all morning and nothing seems to make any difference. Re-ran the propane test 3 more times to no avail. Code 44 could be a fuel pressurre problem. I am going to have to locate a pressure tester. I just shut down and manually operated the schrader valve and got about an eight inch fuel shower, but that is not exactly scientific . It could also be the o2 sensor, but that would be a heck of a coincindence. Still checking and rechecking every thing from yesterday.
Thanks for input guys!Casket
no comment is useless if it triggers another idea, called "piggybacking."
would fuel pres affect idle only? does it affect lean -I realize it sounds like it should, but...?
I did the inj switch, no issues, but I sure saw a dozen opportunities! elec plugs, vac lines, even possible to switch inj plugs if not marked.
pcv?
no comment is useless if it triggers another idea, called "piggybacking."
would fuel pres affect idle only? does it affect lean -I realize it sounds like it should, but...?
I did the inj switch, no issues, but I sure saw a dozen opportunities! elec plugs, vac lines, even possible to switch inj plugs if not marked.
pcv?
jc
I have decided to take the plenum back off to give myself room to work and just do another recheck. I could see how easy it would be to miss something simple.
I have decided to take the plenum back off to give myself room to work and just do another recheck. I could see how easy it would be to miss something simple.
Thanks again for all the replies.
my 91 has the steel brake booster line. didn't think to use thread tape because it seals by metal to metal contact. also didn't look to see the other end which is rubber.
also, one bolt each side in cntr int manifold was only finger tight. never had leaked, which is a mystery.
egr pipe cracked under the heat shield? happened before.
if you look closely, you SHOULD be able to see all lines under plenum, all connecections. I'd make a mental list and check before removing plenum. in desperation would unhook batt cble, start over.
I'm guessing, but thinking at the same time.
During my slow teardown for inspection, I happened to find some debris (no idea what) pinched in the bottom of the passenger intake runner. Correcting this helped, but the idle still hunts when cold. After it warms up I get a high idle condition (1k in gear, 1200 in park) but it is stable. I replaced the IAC and did my IAC and TPS resets per manual. While inspecting the O2 sensor I noticed some flaking coming out of the slots in the pre-cats. I will clean those out when the car cools, but as always, I am open to other suggestions.
back in the day, initial tune settings were used to get a engine running so you could make fine tuning adjustments to make it run good or better depending on the age of the parts. is it possible someone prior to you did that and you set it 'back' to initial settings?