C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Fuel Filter Replacement

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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 12:33 AM
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Default Fuel Filter Replacement

HELP ! I need to replace the fuel filter on my '93 convertible and would appreciate any procedures. What are the special wrenches required? What is the GM filter part number? Thanks for any help it will be greatly appreciated.
ART
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 12:47 AM
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part number on the filter is - (GM#) 89058397 or (ac delco#) GF652F

here's a link on installation - http://corvette.spectraaccess.net/fuel/

not exactly sure what tools are needed, but you will need a fuel line disconnect tool - i'm thinking 3/8", a flare nut wrench, and an open end wrench - not sure of the sizes off the top of my head, but its in the write-up.


Last edited by Joe C; Jul 9, 2011 at 12:53 AM.
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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Default Fuel Filter replacement

Thanks a BIG bunch Joe C. I Web link was really GREAT Info! I'll get started shortly and post my adventure. Again many thanks!!! ART
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Old Jul 10, 2011 | 01:24 AM
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Good luck. The first time I changed my fuel filter I got gasoline on my bloody knuckles
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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Default Filter Replaced

Well that ugly job is DONE. {;0( I followed the web link with a few detours. I have a roadster and had to remove the X member to get access to the filter. The filter nuts were to tight to break loose. I did loosen and remove the lower filter nut but the top nut just wouldn't budge so I had to remove the filter from above. I removed the right front wheel but not the inner liner. With the filter clamp loose and lower line disconnected I could not get the filter up past the fuel return line with out disconnecting the return line at the lower fitting. Be PREPARED for LOTS of gas to gush out of the lower return line. I used a pointed wood dowel to stop the gas flow but suitable rubber plugs would work as well. There is now enough room to pull the filter up and disconnect the upper fitting. I used 5/8" fuel line wrenches to not round off the nuts. Fitting the filter an line back down it helps if a helper pushes for the top while I guided it into the filter clamp from below. THANKS to Joe C and all for their help. ART
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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Default Filter Replacement continued.

I purchased my filter for $15.00 from a local GM dealer: Their part #25171792. I also purchased o-rings for the lower filter line and the fuel return line: Their part #22514722. Being 75 years old it took a LOT longer to do the job. I cut the filter apart and it was a very dark brown with other particles attached. The car has over 75,000 miles and it looked like the filter was original so it was past replacement time.
Thanks again to all who helped with their posts. ART
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Default Convertible fuel filter

Originally Posted by Pearys Ruby
Well that ugly job is DONE. {;0( I followed the web link with a few detours. I have a roadster and had to remove the X member to get access to the filter. The filter nuts were to tight to break loose. I did loosen and remove the lower filter nut but the top nut just wouldn't budge so I had to remove the filter from above. I removed the right front wheel but not the inner liner. With the filter clamp loose and lower line disconnected I could not get the filter up past the fuel return line with out disconnecting the return line at the lower fitting. Be PREPARED for LOTS of gas to gush out of the lower return line. I used a pointed wood dowel to stop the gas flow but suitable rubber plugs would work as well. There is now enough room to pull the filter up and disconnect the upper fitting. I used 5/8" fuel line wrenches to not round off the nuts. Fitting the filter an line back down it helps if a helper pushes for the top while I guided it into the filter clamp from below. THANKS to Joe C and all for their help. ART
I, too have a vert. Did you have to completely remove the x brace or did you let it hang down on one side? Like you, I'll be doing the job solo, and I'd like to leave the brace partially attached versus having to reinstall the thing completely.
If the XBrace can be loosend on one side and removed on the filter side, that would make the job easier.
For breaking rusty nuts, I've had great luck with KROIL- the oil that creeps!.
I have the filter in my garage, but I saw a note in the FSM that the fuel filter is not a regular maintenance item!! So I've been putting the job off.

Your thoughts?

Thanks.

Paul
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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Default Filter Replacement continued.

Paul, To answer your question on the X-Brace. I removed the bolts from BOTH front and the RIGHT rear x-brace. Also the 4 nuts in the center of the x-brace. This let the x-brace hang loose. I also removed the nuts (3) that hold the fuel lines along the body on the passenger side. This made it easier to disconnect the lower fuel lines. Putting the filter back into the clamp really needs two (2) people. One to push the filter and line from the TOP and and another person underneath the car to guide the filter back into the clamp. There must be a better way to keep all the gas from flowing out of the disconnected fuel return line. What a mess. I used a LARGE oil drain pan to catch most of the gas.
My car had over 75,000 miles on the original gas filter and it was really dirty when I cut it apart. Before I replaced the filter I was having a stalling problem when accelerating from a stop signal. Any sudden stomp on the accelerator would bring on the above symptoms. Test drive after the fuel filter replacement showed NONE of the above problems when I stomped on the gas. Hope this helps. E-mail if you have more questions.
ART
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