Porting my plenum with pics
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 833
Likes: 1
Porting my plenum with pics
I know how much you guys love pics.
But then this happened
The burr I was using galled up and this is how far I got
Obviously, I'm not using the right burr. Can you guys give me some suggestions on what to use?
But then this happened
The burr I was using galled up and this is how far I got
Obviously, I'm not using the right burr. Can you guys give me some suggestions on what to use?
Suckin' gas, haulin' ass.
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
From: Newport News Virginia
You can't use burrs for aluminum. You need to get a cutter made for aluminum. Word to the wise, it's going to be agressive and take a ton of metal fast. Be very careful and take small, light cuts. Anything like what you have there, which is made for steel, is going to fill up in a heartbeat.
Oh, and put it in a vice or something of the sort. You need both hands on the tool for the best control. If you are using one hand on the dremel and one hand on the plenum, it's a recipe for disaster and a trip to the ER. If you are just letting is sit there while you go at it, you're going to run the risk of it shooting off, and minimum ruining the plenum. And wear safety glasses if you aren't already.
Oh, and put it in a vice or something of the sort. You need both hands on the tool for the best control. If you are using one hand on the dremel and one hand on the plenum, it's a recipe for disaster and a trip to the ER. If you are just letting is sit there while you go at it, you're going to run the risk of it shooting off, and minimum ruining the plenum. And wear safety glasses if you aren't already.
Last edited by Black89Z51; Jul 11, 2011 at 08:50 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,525
Likes: 2
From: Houston TX
You can use these cutters for aluminum. Dip in ATF frequently, and the cutter will stay clean.
In your case, use a scribe to pull out the aluminum, and then dip in ATF and continue on with your porting.
In your case, use a scribe to pull out the aluminum, and then dip in ATF and continue on with your porting.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
as said get the piece secured via vise or Cclamp etc.
Dont need much speed at all otherwise youll burn up the bit,it will skip around, gouge etc.
All about control. Ill see if I got any laying around I could give up
If so Ill shoot you a pm and send it your way.
Dont need much speed at all otherwise youll burn up the bit,it will skip around, gouge etc.
All about control. Ill see if I got any laying around I could give up
If so Ill shoot you a pm and send it your way.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 833
Likes: 1
Thanks cuisinartvette, I was hoping to hear from one of the best. That's not really necessary, I'm wanting to get this done so I can get it back on the road. (my dd is giving me some issues) Thank you very much for the kind offer though, just need a quick trip to the hardware store tomorrow. AKS, I'm not gonna use this burr anymore, even when it was clean when I first started it wasn't doing much.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 3
From: el cajon ca
Thanks cuisinartvette, I was hoping to hear from one of the best. That's not really necessary, I'm wanting to get this done so I can get it back on the road. (my dd is giving me some issues) Thank you very much for the kind offer though, just need a quick trip to the hardware store tomorrow. AKS, I'm not gonna use this burr anymore, even when it was clean when I first started it wasn't doing much.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg South Carolina
Speed is a very important factor. I've done alot of porting myself and speed will only develop heat, heat will clog up your bit and/or damage it. I use an air die grinder with a regulator that i turn way down, around 20 - 25 psi. The bit doesn't jump around, makes a nice clean cut. Metal will be flying.
Every couple min i'll spray on some wd-40 to the bit and surface. keeps things cool and lubricated. I find that this style of burrs work the best, just an example, i don't have this kit but all my bits are the same style:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...t:429,r:20,s:0
Here's some recent work i've done on my miniram. Still needs the final smoothing but you get the idea. Some other pics of previous work too.
Every couple min i'll spray on some wd-40 to the bit and surface. keeps things cool and lubricated. I find that this style of burrs work the best, just an example, i don't have this kit but all my bits are the same style:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...t:429,r:20,s:0
Here's some recent work i've done on my miniram. Still needs the final smoothing but you get the idea. Some other pics of previous work too.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg South Carolina
i'll be using one of these pieces from the old motor that was in the car. This one is splitting and cracking on the underside though so i need to source out a new one somewhere.
I'm a WD40 guy too.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,221
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From: Overland Park Kansas
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
WD-40 or other cutting oils will also suffice. The main thing is to keep the burr from getting too hot.
I used a burr with a long shaft. And, for runner tube porting, I used an extension for my bits. Since I didn't have (and couldn't afford) to buy an air compressor, I bought a 2k rpm variable speed drill. It seemed about the right speed. The advantage of the longer shaft (and extension) is you can use a gloved hand to apply/control side pressure. With the correct speed/control, a burr is a great option for porting.
Here are the tools I used/tried...
To get this result (base was polished after picture was taken)...
Then, I continued further porting running and base...
Most of this was done with a drill and burr (as pictured). Some of the tube work was done with the long extension, wire wheels, and flap wheels.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 3
From: el cajon ca
After searching around I bought one foot of some tube from napa! It worked great with my 58 and after market cold air intake
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,006
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg South Carolina
Whoring out some more pics of my progress This is still all the initial cuts with carbide bits. Then i'll move onto sanding rolls and cross buff kit for final smoothing
The 2 on the left are in the middle of being cut
The 2 on the right are in the middle of being cut
This is still all the initial cuts with carbide bits. Then i'll move onto sanding rolls and cross buff kit for final smoothingThe 2 on the left are in the middle of being cut
The 2 on the right are in the middle of being cut
Last edited by Dr.Huxtable; Jul 14, 2011 at 01:47 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,551
Likes: 36
From: Jenks OK
All the newer intakes are nylon composites. Are people porting them with just sanding rolls? I can't imagine that people have given up porting intakes just because the new ones are plastic.. The work looks good, I'll have to try my hand at it someday.
