5abivt

Does anyone have any pics to show how much room there is between the balancer and that crossmember to fit a trigger wheel. My motor is out so I don't remember but I do remember it being fairly narrow.

BrianCunningham

What system are you trying to hookup?

jaa1992

Not a lot of room - probably less than 1/4" just enough to pull the damper off and get it out.

5abivt

I had the opti deleted many years ago im running a gen 7 dfi. Im trying to figure ways to get a better crank/cam signal instead of using the distributor (dual sync). Im considering using a TPIS billet timing cover but instead of using the efi live converson parts (24x reluctor) use a 95/6 4x reluctor and sensor Or use a flying magnet msd setup.

5abivt

Anyone mind running into the garage and taking a cell phone pic

If its less than 1/4 inch thats gonna be tight for sure but I'll probably have to install it after I drop the motor in.

5abivt

nm ati sells shells with magnets in them now wohoo !

http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ger-shells.htm

BrianCunningham

the LT4 covers have a crank sensor

will that work?

EDIT

I know someone use to make a kit to run and LT1 with an LSX computer, they made the pickup wheel you need.

5abivt

Yeah I have been following the efi connection conversion since its inception. Unfortunately their reluctor wheel is a 24x (24 teeth) and is dual row so the ls sensor is designed to pick up both rows of teeth. I had thought I could shave off 20 teeth to leave 4 but wouldnt work. Like you mentioned the 95/6 had the 4 tooth reluctor wheel but wouldnt fit (in some cases) with a double roller. TPIS sells the new billet timing cover that is clearanced for the 2 row ls reluctor but with my billet roller and a 95/6 4 tooth it should work in theory. I don't know however if the signal from the 95/6 sensor will be compatible with the gen 7.

To make matters worse I emailed ATI and its $400 for a new ATI balancer with magnets and a 90 day turnaround time I'll probably go this route anyways as the msd flying magnet kit is around $300. I'll use the dual sync dizzy until the damper is made.

For cam sensor we are going to try the efi live custom housing when the engine sees the engine dyno for break in next weekend. The dyno facility has efi setups and will see if their dfi can read the 1x cam signal. If it does I'll have no need for a dual sync dizzy and I'll probably fit a big large cap dizzy at the back of the manifold.

93VettePilot

Why do want to get rid of the dual sync?

5abivt

Just accuracy above 8000 rpms. If it helps protect my investment then all the better. Wear on the dizzy gear can slightly alter the inputs and having a crank trigger or reluctor right on the crank itself will be more accurate. I will probably keep a dual sync as a backup. I have had 1 failure of a dual sync and left me stranded. When i mailed it back for repair they sent back a faulty one. I dont want to have to be down for a whole month during summer again.

93 I know you are running a dual sync as well it is not a bad piece at all. I am just going overkill to make sure everything is as accurate as possible because I dont want another grenade happening again I also had a very very early revision since I did the swap many years ago when DFI was new. That may have been the reason it died on me I have been told by them they have upgraded the dual sync many times since.