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new headman elite headers leaking

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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 04:13 AM
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Default new headman elite headers leaking

I just got finished installing my brand new headman elite coated headers only to find a leak between the flange and a primary tube. There is a nice little black streak that confirms the annoying little ticking sound

What would be the best course of action? I really dont want to pull the headers off the car again if I can avoid it
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 04:34 AM
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you wont like anythig I'll tell you, but you answered your own question, sorry.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 05:42 AM
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Arent the Elites ceramic coated? If so, any repair will not look good to you. Well to me it wouldnt. I know its a PITA but go ahead and pull them and send em back to who ya got them from. Raise enuff caine to at least get a gift certificate for more goodies...errr to cover your time and effort.

Good luck with it!
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HlhnEast
Arent the Elites ceramic coated? If so, any repair will not look good to you. Well to me it wouldnt. I know its a PITA but go ahead and pull them and send em back to who ya got them from. Raise enuff caine to at least get a gift certificate for more goodies...errr to cover your time and effort.

Good luck with it!
Just like the man said X2
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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Either a bad weld or excessive hand porting by the manufacturer or the installer. I've opened up the ports on a set of headers to match my ports. You can only go so far (I've learned). Either way, start wrenching.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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Yep, weld and recoat to repair correctly.

Or weld and use silver header paint. If the spot is accessible for a welder...maybe it can be done on the car. Won't look quite as good, but it'll work. That's what I did when I found the same problem on the back end (with my collector flange).
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 01:09 PM
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I would just pull the one thats leaking off and when the new set comes send the leaking one and the one new header back for reimbursment.. This would save having to pull both off. At least you save half the work.....WW

Last edited by WW7; Jul 18, 2011 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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My hooker 2151 did the same

I ground off the ceramic on the inside of the port and heli-arc welded inside the port, not the outside, so you wont have to re-coat
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Either a bad weld or excessive hand porting by the manufacturer or the installer. I've opened up the ports on a set of headers to match my ports. You can only go so far (I've learned). Either way, start wrenching.
what could I have done installing them?
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
I would just pull the one thats leaking off and when the new set comes send the leaking one and the one new header back for reimbursment.. This would save having to pull both off. At least you save half the work.....WW
THat a good idea except that I would be paying the freight on that I think. Summit said if I pull them both off, they will send me a prepaid label.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LD85
My hooker 2151 did the same

I ground off the ceramic on the inside of the port and heli-arc welded inside the port, not the outside, so you wont have to re-coat
the local engine shop gave me the number of a really good welder that he works with. I may end up going that way.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
Yep, weld and recoat to repair correctly.

Or weld and use silver header paint. If the spot is accessible for a welder...maybe it can be done on the car. Won't look quite as good, but it'll work. That's what I did when I found the same problem on the back end (with my collector flange).
I intially wanted to to fix it from the outside but not many people are suggest this. Other than looks, I am wondering why
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ekess744
I intially wanted to to fix it from the outside but not many people are suggest this. Other than looks, I am wondering why
You have to grind off the ceramic coating and this can promote rust, and its hard to get weld rod penetration with the ceramic down in the cracks.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 06:16 PM
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Oddly enough my shop just hit the same kind of breach with a welder as-is. (pipe-to-flange leak) They didn't prep at all. I sortof call "B.S." on what they were doing. I asked about the coating (and it's negative long-term affect on the weld). He said not-to-worry. So far it's holding.

We'll see....


Note: By "just hit", I don't me recently. It was last fall. "Just" was intended to mean merely.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jul 18, 2011 at 06:25 PM. Reason: clarification on meaning and time-frame for repair
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ekess744
what could I have done installing them?
If you didn't open up the ports, then they are just plain defective. Have them send them a new set.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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your best option is to get the new set, more work...yes, more happy...lots. you wont have to wonder if the weld will hold or if it will warp the flanges
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
If you didn't open up the ports, then they are just plain defective. Have them send them a new set.
I did not port them at all.

I should have taken a picture, but yea, they were just plain defective
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To new headman elite headers leaking

Old Jul 18, 2011 | 10:46 PM
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Send them back and try those Chinese stainless sets. I think they are about the same price. Someone did a thread here recently on them.
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:25 PM
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Find someone that TIG welds Race car chassis & frames in your area.

Welded correct, either MIG, TIG, Or acetylene gas weld, it will last better 10 years for you.

BR
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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by pologreen1
Send them back and try those Chinese stainless sets. I think they are about the same price. Someone did a thread here recently on them.
I'd be skeptical of the OP getting a refund at this point, but that's a great thought!

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