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My 6-spd has 115,000 miles on is basically stock except for a SLP cold air kit, shorty headers and a Corsa exhaust. Recently had it dyo'd and I got 278 rwhp/305 rwt. My goals are to get as close to 400rwhp as I can, pass 50state emissions with a streetable daily driver on pump gas that sounds good and is fun to drive and is reliable. I initially wanted to go the heads/cam route but I talked to a few local mechanics and they recommended upgraded the bottom end as well due to mileage and possibly to a 383 storker or just buy a long block 383. I live near Jacksonville, NC but really havent found a one stop shop since as soon as i mention LT1,Opti spark I start seeing back pedaling so Im looking on the internet. Ive got my eye on a 383 from golen engines but Im starting to realize my project is getting expensive fast. I can change oil and tires but this is starting to get over my head even though im educating myself. Any recommendations to make this as easy and painless as possible will be appreciated. Im in Afghanistan currently so Im looking at doing this when I return.
My 6-spd has 115,000 miles on is basically stock except for a SLP cold air kit, shorty headers and a Corsa exhaust. Recently had it dyo'd and I got 278 rwhp/305 rwt. My goals are to get as close to 400rwhp as I can, pass 50state emissions with a streetable daily driver on pump gas that sounds good and is fun to drive and is reliable. I initially wanted to go the heads/cam route but I talked to a few local mechanics and they recommended upgraded the bottom end as well due to mileage and possibly to a 383 storker or just buy a long block 383. I live near Jacksonville, NC but really havent found a one stop shop since as soon as i mention LT1,Opti spark I start seeing back pedaling so Im looking on the internet. Ive got my eye on a 383 from golen engines but Im starting to realize my project is getting expensive fast. I can change oil and tires but this is starting to get over my head even though im educating myself. Any recommendations to make this as easy and painless as possible will be appreciated. Im in Afghanistan currently so Im looking at doing this when I return.
Doable, but not sure about CA emissions, so say 49 state emissions and you will be there.
Heads, cam, headers, bullit cats and stroked 383 and add some happy gas and you are there.
Heads, cam and headers will get you where you want to be but with 115,000 miles on the clock you should freshen up the bottom end. Many have done it with the stock bottom end and had no problems. Your goals of 400 RWHP will mean an engine HP of about 475 or so and that's really going to be hard with a H/C, stock bottom end and 50 state emissions with reliability.
I think the easiest way would be a 383 package to meet your goals. With more cubes you'll not need things refined quite as much or as crazy a cam. You'll kinda get the plow horse power without being as touchy as a thoroughbred.
Be sure to save your HFP/IDP and use that to help buy the 383. Thanks for being over there and send a few to Haji for me. Remember something I learned long ago......when it comes time to duck........duck. Be safe and have a great tour
Do yourself a favor save as much as you can and build the larger motor. Easy to get a hard running 383 to pass ca emissions.
Shoot me a pm if I can help.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by Yoda93Vette
My 6-spd has 115,000 miles on is basically stock except for a SLP cold air kit, shorty headers and a Corsa exhaust. Recently had it dyo'd and I got 278 rwhp/305 rwt. My goals are to get as close to 400rwhp as I can, pass 50state emissions with a streetable daily driver on pump gas that sounds good and is fun to drive and is reliable. I initially wanted to go the heads/cam route but I talked to a few local mechanics and they recommended upgraded the bottom end as well due to mileage and possibly to a 383 storker or just buy a long block 383. I live near Jacksonville, NC but really havent found a one stop shop since as soon as i mention LT1,Opti spark I start seeing back pedaling so Im looking on the internet. Ive got my eye on a 383 from golen engines but Im starting to realize my project is getting expensive fast. I can change oil and tires but this is starting to get over my head even though im educating myself. Any recommendations to make this as easy and painless as possible will be appreciated. Im in Afghanistan currently so Im looking at doing this when I return.
OK, I'm confused - other responders mention California emissions - but it appears you will be in North Carolina.
Are you close to the NASCAR shops? If you can get chummy with one of their machine shops and crew you may find one that will take on a "side" project and help you out.
I've got one of the Elliot mechanics lined up to do my 383.
What is your budget?
Can you turn a wrench and follow instructions?
There have been several engine build threads with lots of pictures. If I had the free time and the space I'd do it myself with help from a local machine shop to do the block work and balancing.
Heads, cam and headers will get you where you want to be but with 115,000 miles on the clock you should freshen up the bottom end. Many have done it with the stock bottom end and had no problems. Your goals of 400 RWHP will mean an engine HP of about 475 or so and that's really going to be hard with a H/C, stock bottom end and 50 state emissions with reliability.
I think the easiest way would be a 383 package to meet your goals. With more cubes you'll not need things refined quite as much or as crazy a cam. You'll kinda get the plow horse power without being as touchy as a thoroughbred.
Be sure to save your HFP/IDP and use that to help buy the 383. Thanks for being over there and send a few to Haji for me. Remember something I learned long ago......when it comes time to duck........duck. Be safe and have a great tour
Heads, cam and headers will not get you there and be emissions friendly. I have heads, headers and mild cam and I am no where near 400 rwhp. You figure 265-270 stock rwhp, cam bought me maybe 20-25ith the head work, heads gave me another 25-30 and headers brought in the least and I will say 10-13, but I will qualify that by saying I only had mild head porting and 5 angle valve job and my cam is a tad better than stock. Plus the LT1 exhaust flows very well and I wish I had heeded everyones advice before putting the headers on, because they cause more problems than they are worth.
If you want to hit 400 rwhp and be emissions friendly, you will have to stroke it and use the gas, because you are not going to get 130 hp and have good emissions from just heads, cam and headers, do a search of this website and you will see post after post that backs me up. I have had my 93 for 8 yrs and a 92 and while I like the LT1, you will not see the increase in HP w/bolt ons, like the LS series.
OK, I'm confused - other responders mention California emissions - but it appears you will be in North Carolina.
Are you close to the NASCAR shops? If you can get chummy with one of their machine shops and crew you may find one that will take on a "side" project and help you out.
I've got one of the Elliot mechanics lined up to do my 383.
What is your budget?
Can you turn a wrench and follow instructions?
There have been several engine build threads with lots of pictures. If I had the free time and the space I'd do it myself with help from a local machine shop to do the block work and balancing.
If i could find a knowledgable mech to do a side project locally that would be awesome. So far no luck. Im pretty much sold on going with a fresh 383 from the info Ive recieved. Im probably going with golen. I can turn a wrench but Im not even going to pretend I have the time, patience or aptitude to attempt to work on the engine myself. I do live in NC now but Im in the military and will probably have to go back Cali at some point and would have to pass CA smog. To be honest Im new at this so I have no Idea what is a reasonable budget. Ive just done alot of homework via forums and figure Im looking at a budget of around 8 grand to include engine and labor. Does that sound right or am I out in left field? 1966SS, Im on a Haji watch for you daily and trust me Im all about taking cover and responding with overwhelming firepower.
If i could find a knowledgable mech to do a side project locally that would be awesome. So far no luck. Im pretty much sold on going with a fresh 383 from the info Ive recieved. Im probably going with golen. I can turn a wrench but Im not even going to pretend I have the time, patience or aptitude to attempt to work on the engine myself. I do live in NC now but Im in the military and will probably have to go back Cali at some point and would have to pass CA smog. To be honest Im new at this so I have no Idea what is a reasonable budget. Ive just done alot of homework via forums and figure Im looking at a budget of around 8 grand to include engine and labor. Does that sound right or am I out in left field? 1966SS, Im on a Haji watch for you daily and trust me Im all about taking cover and responding with overwhelming firepower.
That is why I went into the AF, no foxholes!!
Forgot one important thing, 92-93 ECM's HATE mods. So make sure you get a good tuner, like Alvin at PCMforless.
Id say 8k is very close either way.
Getting a crate is probably your best bet then having someone put it in for you, tune etc. Get it tuned in person to get the most out of it and ensure it burns clean.
Were from two different generations. My first thought is to say forget it and buy a C5. Much better opportunities. On the other hand 8 grand isn't going to cut it. Keeping in mind your not doing the work your self, the dollars burn off very quickly. Add a supercharger and you will be at the power level you want. Then you will start breaking things. Honestly, 8 grand is a dream not reality.
Add a supercharger and you will be at the power level you want. Honestly, 8 grand is a dream not reality.
Which is it??
Is there a supercharger that costs more than 8k?? Or even 5? If he can meet his goals with a 'charger as you say (and I believe that he can), then 8k is not only reality, but with room to spare.
there are lots and lots of 383 threads; they can be done for the price of a stock 350 rebuild, or you can spend tons of money on them.
as much as we all fall victim to the siren's song of horsepower and torque, a much more realistic question to ask, when money is an issue, especially with stroker motors, is how high of rpm are you contemplating winding the motor ? more rpm equals (much) more money. quickly.
read / research 383 build ups; especially those that use as much stock internals (read: low buck) as possible. You can probably hit your goal, or come darn close, on a budget. At this point in time 383 builds are a very well thought out, known quantity.
Were from two different generations. My first thought is to say forget it and buy a C5. Much better opportunities. On the other hand 8 grand isn't going to cut it. Keeping in mind your not doing the work your self, the dollars burn off very quickly. Add a supercharger and you will be at the power level you want. Then you will start breaking things. Honestly, 8 grand is a dream not reality.
I appreciate all the responses and this is getting my knowledge level up very quickly. Not looking at getting a new vehicle since I love having no car payments. Plus, that would be to easy, not as fun and too easy on the wifes blood pressure. I looked at the supercharger route but came to the same conclusion you briefed as to I would end of breaking things especially with the mileage on my block. Ive been able to "bracket" my costs on a new motor and know what to expect in that realm depending upon application and hp I want so Im anywhere from 5500-7000 committed on a motor. Ive also realized that 400rwhp sounds nice but really might be more than what I "need". Plus it seems getting those numbers will make it difficult/not impossible to remain CA smog legal(San Diego Area). I understand that labor costs are different every where but could someone give me a ballpark of what Im looking at for the engine swap and then dyno tuning in the great state of NC or in general.
Bet if you kept the intake duration of the cam below 224 deg, even 220@ .050 youllbe just fine. dont get too tight of a lobe center, id go at least 112, preferably a little larger. Good tune and you should pass with no problem. Then get some shorty Dougs headers on there they are in Ca too. They have an EO# I believe.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
OK, 8k might be a little light. My mechanic will pull and replace the engine in my 92 for about $1500.
Are you just getting a shortblock from golen or a complete assembly?
Shortblock + AFR heads + port intake + cam to support may get you close to the 400 rwhp. Only thing is hard parts (heads, intake, cam) and installation of those parts may bring you up over 8K.
Oh - and a tune, PCM for less is in Mooresville. Get a dyno tune!
My first big mod was a 125 shot of nitrous. That was probably around 80,000 miles or so. When that wasn't enough I installed a new cam at over 110,000 miles. When I put the cam in I redid the whole front of the engine and valve train. I've done a few other mods along the way. I havent been on the dyno but last time out at the track I was trapping 122mph in the 1/4.
I didnt have all the money at once to do a stroker or bottom end rebuild. So far it's held up well. My next upgrade will be a good set of heads. Beyoned that will be a 396 build. My Vette has been my daily driver and only vehicle since 2004. I just recently bought a second vehicle so I don't have to be as concerned of breaking things and I can do that stroker build that we all end up doing.