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I have to put in a new alternator. The problem is that I really do not know what I am doing. I was able to remove it and get a new one. Now I am having issues with the serpentine belt. Is this a one person job? How do I get the serpentine belt onto the alternator.
THANKS!!!!!
Hopefully it will be quick and easy - with this crazy heat we are dealing with..............
There is an automatic belt tenisoner. It has a opening for a 3/4 ratchet or braker bar. Insert the one you have and move Tenisoner to relive tenison on belt to install. It is a one person job.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
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Originally Posted by hooked073
There is an automatic belt tenisoner. It has a opening for a 3/4 ratchet or braker bar. Insert the one you have and move Tenisoner to relive tenison on belt to install. It is a one person job.
Yep...Mount the alternator. If there's an adjustable, slotted hole go to the outside if serp belt is older. Otherwise mount to the middle or in stationary hole as required.
Feed the belt on all pulleys except the tensioner. I use a screwdriver (if necessary to hold the belt while inserting the 3/4" ratchet/braker in the 3/4" recessed square hole. Apply pressure to compress the tensioner and slide the last loop of the belt onto the tensioner. Release and you're ready to roll!
On days where I ate my wheaties, I could depress the tensioner by hand (though it's kinda hard on the palm). And, it's a new tensioner. The original one was really easy to depress by hand.
When installed, the tensioner shouldn't have much more than a 45-deg angle up into the belt or the belt should be shortened or replaced. (I also think there's marks on the tensioner as a visual guide to belt stretch/wear.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C4 of Year Winner (appearance mods) 2019
Yep. 1/2" drive is what we should have said. Alzheimers or lacking of reading comprehesion. Take your pick.
Also, with regard to the tension/stretch to which I referred, I would consider any TENSIONER sitting -- as shown in the drawing above -- worn-out/stretched/too-long. If you rotate the tensioner arm 45-deg clockwise, that's a better position for it to be sitting with the correct belt length. (IOW you'd want it pointing more at the crank pulley.)
As shown, it can/will jump/bounce and/or tap metal. You'll hear it make noise when it REALLY gets bad. Once it reaches the limit of it's travel, it taps against itself.
Edit: Though I don't have the stock alt bracket anymore, I'll still say this...IF THERE IS ANY ADJUSTMENT ON THE ALT BOLT SLOT (with an elongated slot on one of the mounting bolts), and the tensioner sits as shown in the drawing, I'd re-adjust that alt bolt so maximum slack is pulled out of the belt. That might bring the tensioner back into a better position. (I raise this option since it's available with the aftermarket accessories I'm currently running.)
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jul 30, 2011 at 02:22 AM.
Reason: TENSIONER was clarified
More important then the breaker bar size, is making sure he reads the instructions and doesn't blow the diodes in the alternator. Ask me how I know........ WW
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
A short cheater pipe over a 1/2" breaker bar will give you a bit more reach and leverage. The route should be on the radiator shroud. Get the belt lined up over all the pulleys and from the drivers side take tension off the pulley with your right hand and slip the belt over the alternator pulley last with your left hand.
Directions would be to disconnect the Battery before you hook up the hot lead, but hopefully, it was disconnected before you took off the old alternator and the hot lead isn't flopping around the engine compartment - otherwise, have a fusible link on hand.
Tensioner should be within the alignment marks, but unless it's a new belt, that shouldn't be a problem.