C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Alternator Installation

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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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Default Alternator Installation

Hey everyone,

I have to put in a new alternator. The problem is that I really do not know what I am doing. I was able to remove it and get a new one. Now I am having issues with the serpentine belt. Is this a one person job? How do I get the serpentine belt onto the alternator.

THANKS!!!!!

Hopefully it will be quick and easy - with this crazy heat we are dealing with..............
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:51 PM
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Sorry I have a 1989 corvette convertible if it helps. I have the service manual but i can not find anything on serpentine belt installations.......
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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Have you located and created an understanding of the belt tensioner?
There might be a belt route diagram somwhere on the radiator shroud.

Do you have the new alternator mounted? There are a few brackets.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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There is an automatic belt tenisoner. It has a opening for a 3/4 ratchet or braker bar. Insert the one you have and move Tenisoner to relive tenison on belt to install. It is a one person job.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by hooked073
There is an automatic belt tenisoner. It has a opening for a 3/4 ratchet or braker bar. Insert the one you have and move Tenisoner to relive tenison on belt to install. It is a one person job.
Yep...Mount the alternator. If there's an adjustable, slotted hole go to the outside if serp belt is older. Otherwise mount to the middle or in stationary hole as required.

Feed the belt on all pulleys except the tensioner. I use a screwdriver (if necessary to hold the belt while inserting the 3/4" ratchet/braker in the 3/4" recessed square hole. Apply pressure to compress the tensioner and slide the last loop of the belt onto the tensioner. Release and you're ready to roll!

On days where I ate my wheaties, I could depress the tensioner by hand (though it's kinda hard on the palm). And, it's a new tensioner. The original one was really easy to depress by hand.

When installed, the tensioner shouldn't have much more than a 45-deg angle up into the belt or the belt should be shortened or replaced. (I also think there's marks on the tensioner as a visual guide to belt stretch/wear.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:19 PM
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That's odd, my '91 uses a 1/2" drive to release the tensioner.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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tomatoes...tomaaaahtoes. use whatever works
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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I think it is 1/2 inch also. Insert breaker bar or ratchet and push to drivers side with one hand as you route the belt past the tensioner.

Doing this the first time is always a little awkward....but you can do it.
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:42 PM
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Yep. 1/2" drive is what we should have said. Alzheimers or lacking of reading comprehesion. Take your pick.

Also, with regard to the tension/stretch to which I referred, I would consider any TENSIONER sitting -- as shown in the drawing above -- worn-out/stretched/too-long. If you rotate the tensioner arm 45-deg clockwise, that's a better position for it to be sitting with the correct belt length. (IOW you'd want it pointing more at the crank pulley.)

As shown, it can/will jump/bounce and/or tap metal. You'll hear it make noise when it REALLY gets bad. Once it reaches the limit of it's travel, it taps against itself.

Edit: Though I don't have the stock alt bracket anymore, I'll still say this...IF THERE IS ANY ADJUSTMENT ON THE ALT BOLT SLOT (with an elongated slot on one of the mounting bolts), and the tensioner sits as shown in the drawing, I'd re-adjust that alt bolt so maximum slack is pulled out of the belt. That might bring the tensioner back into a better position. (I raise this option since it's available with the aftermarket accessories I'm currently running.)

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Jul 30, 2011 at 02:22 AM. Reason: TENSIONER was clarified
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 01:44 AM
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My '85 uses a 1/2" drive. Breaker bar makes it a snap!
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 08:07 AM
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ok...six people say it takes a 1/2" ,must be true
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 08:15 AM
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More important then the breaker bar size, is making sure he reads the instructions and doesn't blow the diodes in the alternator. Ask me how I know........ WW

PS; It is 1/2"

Last edited by WW7; Jul 30, 2011 at 08:25 AM.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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now yer gittin downright mean, read the directions? be still my heart.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
now yer gittin downright mean, read the directions? be still my heart.
Only as a last resort, "Of Course"......WW

The OP doesn't sound like he's had alot of experience with cars, so instructions are essential...

Last edited by WW7; Jul 30, 2011 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by oldalaskaman
now yer gittin downright mean, read the directions? be still my heart.

Sorry
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 12:06 PM
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A short cheater pipe over a 1/2" breaker bar will give you a bit more reach and leverage. The route should be on the radiator shroud. Get the belt lined up over all the pulleys and from the drivers side take tension off the pulley with your right hand and slip the belt over the alternator pulley last with your left hand.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 01:48 PM
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Yep guys I was wrong was half asleep... sorry it is 1/2 in drive
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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Directions would be to disconnect the Battery before you hook up the hot lead, but hopefully, it was disconnected before you took off the old alternator and the hot lead isn't flopping around the engine compartment - otherwise, have a fusible link on hand.

Tensioner should be within the alignment marks, but unless it's a new belt, that shouldn't be a problem.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by myturn89
I really do not know what I am doing
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