I have been getting a good size puddle of coolant on the passenger side of the radiator. I had replaced the hoses when I first got the car, about 3 months ago, just to be safe. It has 92k on it. I have been thinking about going with a high end like Dewitts but I don't race it and after searching all the threads here it seems like it's a 50/50 split with guys going oem or all aluminum. It has always run between 194 and 208 depending on air temp and driving so I don't think I need high end. any last thoughts on this would be appreciated. lastly, when I changed the hoses I just drained and filled the radiator. I did not remove the knock sensors. Quite frankly this scares me a bit. I have had terrible luck with stripping and breaking bolts on my last vette so I don't want to mess up these. Since the car seems to be running well do I really need to do this, I would like to do it right but that always leads me to more problems.. I am not that experienced as a mechanic, I have done the heater core and the wheel bearings so it seems this should be easier. anyone remember any good tips on getting those 3 bolts off each side? I know I need to get them from the inside and it likes like reversing them will make it easier in the future. thanks guys, I'll be in the garage swearing and drinking for the rest of the day. could be worse

 

On the driver side, you need to remove the air pump. After that, use a 1/4" drive with extensions and a open end wrench (forgot the size). If you have big hands, you may want to get someone with smaller hands to help. When re-installing, you don't need to put all three back.

 

Sounds like your temps are good with a stock radiator. If you choose to stay stock, checkout corvette recycling for new old stock radiators.

http://www.corvetterecycling.com/199...p/52473260.htm

I went with a Dewitts and am happy with the results. My car runs overall about 14 degrees cooler.

Just be patient with the three screws on the sides of the shroud and you will get them. You will be glad you switched them to the inside of the shroud the next time you need to clean the radiator and A/C condenser!

 

Regarding the knock sensors...Rather than removing them, an alternative is to just perform several flushes of the system. Fill the system with water only. Let the engine idle to operating temp. Turn engine off and allow it to cool. Drain water via the radiator. Repeat process until clear water comes out. Fill with appropriate coolant/water mix.

 

what exactly have you guys used to remove those 3 screws from the side of the shroud? I have a basic set of tools and can't get a wrench down there, not long enough. Can't get a 1/4 drive down there because it's too wide and I also tried a 1/4 extension with a swivel on the end and still can't get it on the not. I was trying this from the top. Going in from the bottom, parts of the air dam are in the way. which side did you go in from and what tool you used would really help me out. I guess I have to make a trip to the store and find the right tool, just want to know what one. All part of my education I guess. Thanks for the help guys

 

I didn't use any special tools, it was just slow going.

FYI, once you get them out and try to pull the shroud off, you'll think it's impossilbe as well. You do not have to remove the A/C lines, but again, patience will be required. You'll have to twist and turn the shroud, but it will eventually come off.

 

I just can't get a wrench on those nuts. I have tried everything. I am not a great mechanic so I am just looking for some good tips with specific tools. Thanks

 

Wow the LT setup must be different. I got my shroud off (and radiator out) in about 20-30 minutes.

I used my electric impact wrench to remove the 10mm bolts and a power screwdriver with a 7mm bit on the small ones. If a bit driver would't fit, I would think you could get a 1/4" drive ratchet (7mm socket) or 7mm box wrench down there????

The biggest PITA was holding up on the air "box" to get one of the retainer ***** off.

Actually, I didn't notice the smaller size, I grabbed a bit out of my toolbox and got it on the first try. I probably didn't even look at the size, I'm just guessing.

 

Remove the AIR pump on the driver's side. Remove the coolant overflow tank on the passenger side. With those out of the way and using a 1/4" drive ratchet, an extension or two, and a universal joint, you can remove two of the bolts on each side. The upper bolt on each side requires a steady hand, a thin 8mm (as I recall) wrench, and lots of patience.

 

This is the same method and tools I employed. A frosty beverage after you get the last of the "three amigos" out is required to celebrate .

 

 

thanks guys. I just don't have the mechanical mind yet I guess. Didn't even occur to me to remove the overflow tank

 

Do not feel so badly.

I have been an auto/truck technician for almost forty (40) years. I had a HUGE problem getting to those shroud bolts.

One thing I did upon reassembly. I reversed which way the fasteners faced. Now, I just have to get down in FRONT of the A/C condenser and remove all the bolts from that vantage point.

To all the judges out there: I know, NOT factory. But, at least a better design than the original.

After installing your new radiator, please be sure to SAVE the WAVE!

 

well, I finally got those 6 bolts out. PITA! Removing the air pump and overflow tank is the only way. Just to add my advice, the bottom 2 are easy if you go in from below with and extension. It's the top one on each side that suck. The passenger you can use an open end 7mm wrench and get it from underneath. The driver side was the worst. I had to go in from the top and get the open end wrench on and kind of palm it to keep it on and then you can get a half turn before you hit the hood latch. This is where you try and put pressure on the wrench and you can go out and around the latch to continue another half turn. Hope this helps and thanks you guys for all the advice. Now I have to deal with wiggling the shroud off. Does anyone know the part number for the gm radiator? I went to advance auto and they had a couple that they said were oem but they were not gm or delco. Does this matter or should I be looking for the gm?