Alright, I'll make a thread in gen. Maybe we can talk more there. I think a better gear ratio would help too.

 

Good luck with that fitting into a TTA reclass. I'm betting TTS unless you add weight or detune the engine.

My 92 with the 383 and 3400 lbs came back with TTB - 308 rwhp, TTB* - 320 (I'll have to check the email again) or TTB** - 353 rwhp
Find the TT clasification spreadsheet and do some "what if" in the hp/wt sheet to see where you are going to wind up.

Right now with no front camber, kinda sucky shocks and no desire to hit a wall again I'm 10 sec off top TTA times in my region. Gonna keep on plugging away at it though.

 

Im not re-classing Im just using my points. If I run 275s I can go as light as 3218, but with 255s I can go down to 3128 both of those with 370rwhp. When you use a 275 or smaller you get 0.4 back on your wt/pwr ratio.

 

back to the original topic...I discovered what seems to be a serious issue with the way the pump sits in the tank. I took this picture to show how the pump is oriented in the tank. The pickup area is towards the front of the tank and not at all level with the tank bottom. If you've seen the yellow bucket in your tank you see a small lip/cover towards the rear that seems like it would hold fuel in place under acceleration...well the pickup for the pump is on the opposite end of that lip.

Now, if you rorate the assembly 180°, the pump would orient perfectly vertical and the pickup and sock would sit right at the edge of the lip/cover.

I'm not kidding when I say, I honestly think there was a mixup. That something got reversed in the design/production stage. Soooo many people that drive their cars hard experience this under half tank acceleration starvation problem.

Here is how the pump sits in the tank: (Note that the top of the tank is angled down from front to back.



NOW - turn the assembly 180° and this is how it WOULD sit:



Due to the bolt pattern, you can only mount the sender/pump as in the top pic.

As a former mechanic, I replaced dozens of fuel pumps...never seen one that sat at such an angle. Seems completely bass-ackwards for picking up fuel under the most demanding condition - acceleration.

 

Do you think there is a possible easy for this then? How hard would it be to rotate the assy?

I have to say I've never known a car was such a bad problem with fuel starving as the C4

Dan

 

Good to see that this design has worked well for everybody. I experimented with this many yrs ago but only refined the design in the last 3 yrs maybe. The system thats in my tank (lucas bottle) has performed flawlessly and even allowed me to run to near bone dry. The "well" is the absolute last bit of fuel in the tank and when your car sputters with a well...its EMPTY !

 

That's REALLY interesting about the orientation of the pump/level sender unit.

I assume you could redrill the mounting flange and turn it 180°, but the problem I see with that is that I think the float would hit the back of the tank.

In my case the original sock rubbed against the bottom of the tank and shredded. The pump seized when it sucked up the fibers. That made me wonder about your statement that you had to bend things to get the pump to sit lower in the tank.

I notice that your pulsator has been replaced. Been there, done THAT. I put in an aftermarket sending unit and the spacing was too great between the pump and the output tube. I heard that the hose will deteriorate from the outside inward unless you use the $25/foot hose (Gates 27093 submersible fuel line). I used that stuff because I didn't want to take a chance.

 

Andrew,

Hows that Bronco bottle holding up? I am about to do this and would rather waste $7 on a Bronco bottle than a more expensive oil bottle.

 

 

I can't speak to the 'bronco' bottle, but I've had the Lucas bottle in/out several times in the last 3 yrs since installing it and there has been zero ill effect from alcohol, gas or other fuel additives.

I did see that a tie-strap of one type had become hard and brittle...while others were still new looking. Different plastic compounds but no way to tell one from the other. I think stainless safety wire is the way to secure the assembly to the pick-up tube.

 

It's the end of the racing season and I was looking at video. This idea worked very well! I could see the fuel level at half a tank then go into a corner and it would go to E. An aftermarket gauge is way more telling on what the fuel is doing than the stock one. There were no issues with fuel starvation. Wow does the fuel really move around!

I've been running E85 and looked over some fuel system parts, they all look fine with no break down.