Budget 2-row radiator comparison
Pro
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: St James New York
And the Dewitts double row drops right in, is made much better in the USA, (although costs more) w/included wider rubber isolators with feet made to fit into them, & no shroud trimming required!
Last edited by mako41; Aug 14, 2011 at 04:24 PM.
Melting Slicks
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The body of the two stat's pictured look the same as the shape of the Mr. Gasket version I purchased. I kinda figured one manufacturer with various badging, but maybe there's really a difference.
OTOH, I notice the description says 180 is the "opening temperature rating". It was pointed out (to me) that this could be the temperature the stat STARTS to open vs being fully open.
If the 180 runs at 195 in my car, maybe a 160 (from the same manufacturer) would run at 175? Probably better to stay at the higher temp for emissions and oil condensation removal though. Would be interesting to know if I got more power and better response at the lower temp....again due to the compression in the engine.
Lifetime warranty, 2 years, or 1 year ?
You are going to have to experiment with T- stats, cooling fans, ect to get the coolant temps to 170 or so where you want them.
Pics of the different brand name high performance application T-stats do all look the same.
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BTW...This thread was intended to be a budget radiator options AND performance thread. I didn't REALLY want to get into comparing budget options to $500+ radiators. OTOH, I think it'll be good to have performance observations gathered in one place.
If people are interested in adding empirical data for comparison, I think cubic inches, compression, radiator config, price, fan modifications (if any), and temps/conditions (seen on the road/track) would be the requirements to post. That's about as fair as it can get.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; Aug 14, 2011 at 05:18 PM.
Melting Slicks
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Fixed.
BTW...This thread was intended to be a budget radiator options AND performance thread. I didn't REALLY want to get into comparing budget options to $500+ radiators. OTOH, I think it'll be good to have performance observations gathered in one place.
If people are interested in adding empirical data for comparison, I think cubic inches, compression, radiator config, price, and temps/conditions would be the requirements to post. That's about as fair as it can get.
BTW...This thread was intended to be a budget radiator options AND performance thread. I didn't REALLY want to get into comparing budget options to $500+ radiators. OTOH, I think it'll be good to have performance observations gathered in one place.
If people are interested in adding empirical data for comparison, I think cubic inches, compression, radiator config, price, and temps/conditions would be the requirements to post. That's about as fair as it can get.
nothing new on C4.
You have a decent replacement aluminum radiator.
The Be Cool Radiator w/ intergral auto trans cooler I installed in my '63 G.P. costed me $650.00 without IL sales tax.
Does the job nice keeping it cool in hot midwest summer heat.
Cheaper alternative than finding a 1963 factory 4- row SD421 radiator at a cost of over $1,000.
Did Champion Radiators give a BTU heat discharge rating per second, per minute, or per hour in your research done ?
Best way to compare different brand of radiators & different construction materials & assembly techniques.
In Nascar they take 2 separate 2 row aluminum radiators cut the side tanks off of one side & TIG Weld them together back shut.
Coolest thing if you ever have seen photos or up close in person looking at one of those TIG welded paired aluminum racing radiators.
BR
Last edited by 87 vette 81 big girl; Aug 14, 2011 at 05:24 PM.
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No doubt. If people consider higher priced radiators "budget", go ahead an post about it. If they really do a better job of cooling, that's worth seeing as well.
I also bought a Scat9000 crank for my 383. IIRC, it's made in the same country as my new radiator. So far, so good for both of them!
No Brian, I wasn't born yesterday. I asked all sellers of budget radiators for their BTU rating. Guess how that went! That's why I figured this thread would/could better identify performance characteristics w/o having a formal heat rating.
I also think it's beneficial for budget buyers to see what's involved with the installation.
I also bought a Scat9000 crank for my 383. IIRC, it's made in the same country as my new radiator. So far, so good for both of them!
No Brian, I wasn't born yesterday. I asked all sellers of budget radiators for their BTU rating. Guess how that went! That's why I figured this thread would/could better identify performance characteristics w/o having a formal heat rating.
I also think it's beneficial for budget buyers to see what's involved with the installation.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
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No doubt. If people consider higher priced radiators "budget", go ahead an post about it. If they really do a better job of cooling, that's worth seeing as well.
I also bought a Scat9000 crank for my 383. IIRC, it's made in the same country as my new radiator. So far, so good for both of them!
No Brian, I wasn't born yesterday. I asked all sellers of budget radiators for their BTU rating. Guess how that went! That's why I figured this thread would/could better identify performance characteristics w/o having a formal heat rating.
I also think it's beneficial for budget buyers to see what's involved with the installation.
I also bought a Scat9000 crank for my 383. IIRC, it's made in the same country as my new radiator. So far, so good for both of them!
No Brian, I wasn't born yesterday. I asked all sellers of budget radiators for their BTU rating. Guess how that went! That's why I figured this thread would/could better identify performance characteristics w/o having a formal heat rating.
I also think it's beneficial for budget buyers to see what's involved with the installation.
I know what Budget friendly means too.
I bought that Be Cool Radiator back in 2005.
Sidejobs were for the picking & I had my day job too.
I made an extra $500 to $2,000 per week making repairs on daily driver's & racecars for people I knew & others that heard I was a good mechanic too.
Fast forward to 2011.................
Sucks................
I know you research too.
Just asking Greg about BTU's.
Don't bite my head off & spit it out back at me.
On your side.
LOL
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Types of fans and general techniques for cooling would be worth posting as well. I could see fans, fan brands, front spoilers, and cooling "scoops" as being part of this topic....
Of course, there's always gonna be the hi-dollar "pro" stuff vs the budget, everyday-common-man options too. So, I don't see this turning into a NASCAR cooling thread!
Of course, there's always gonna be the hi-dollar "pro" stuff vs the budget, everyday-common-man options too. So, I don't see this turning into a NASCAR cooling thread!
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Melting Slicks
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Types of fans and general techniques for cooling would be worth posting as well. I could see fans, fan brands, front spoilers, and cooling "scoops" as being part of this topic....
Of course, there's always gonna be the hi-dollar "pro" stuff vs the budget, everyday-common-man options too. So, I don't see this turning into a NASCAR cooling thread!
Of course, there's always gonna be the hi-dollar "pro" stuff vs the budget, everyday-common-man options too. So, I don't see this turning into a NASCAR cooling thread!
They would hold 140 - 170 real easy with old cooling system tricks.
NASCAR works real hard to keep engine water temps down also.
Just like us C4 guys & gals.
Melting Slicks
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Team Owner
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From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
To obtain more cooling, you would do best to install a higher volume water pump. When my 87 OEM pump started leaking, I installed a Stewart high volume waterpump and it made a big difference in cooling. In summer at stoplights my coolant temps would rise to 210 or so and with the Stewart waterpump it would only go to 200 and much more quickly it would drop to 195 (my thermostat) when I got underway. Installing a lower opening temperature thermostat will not do anything to lower your coolant temps when stopped. If your thermostat is wide open now, a lower thermostat will also be wide open and your coolant temps will be identical. Your coolant temp stabilizes at a temperature where the radiator gets rid of heat as fast as the engine makes it when the thermostat is wide open. A thermostat only sets the minimum temperature the engine operates at, it has absolutely nothing to do with the coolant temperature after it becomes wide open. For the life of me I don't understand why this is so difficult to understand.
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To obtain more cooling, you would do best to install a higher volume water pump. When my 87 OEM pump started leaking, I installed a Stewart high volume waterpump and it made a big difference in cooling. In summer at stoplights my coolant temps would rise to 210 or so and with the Stewart waterpump it would only go to 200 and much more quickly it would drop to 195 (my thermostat) when I got underway. Installing a lower opening temperature thermostat will not do anything to lower your coolant temps when stopped. If your thermostat is wide open now, a lower thermostat will also be wide open and your coolant temps will be identical. Your coolant temp stabilizes at a temperature where the radiator gets rid of heat as fast as the engine makes it when the thermostat is wide open. A thermostat only sets the minimum temperature the engine operates at, it has absolutely nothing to do with the coolant temperature after it becomes wide open. For the life of me I don't understand why this is so difficult to understand.
If successful, I would have 180-deg temps....at least part of the time. It's clear from running that stat since Aug 2010, that it can't possibly be fully open at 180. The lowest temp even in winter doesn't indicate it.
For the life of me, I don't understand why it's so difficult to read!
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The more HP & Torque you make,
the harder you tax the engine cooling system at all times.
You have over 600 ft/lbs of engine flywheel torque.
Engines displace around 80 - 85% of fuel burned in radiant heat out out to the cooling system & exhaust.
Far from 100% thermal efficiency per drop of gasoline ignited inside of the cylinder combustion chamber.
Brian
the harder you tax the engine cooling system at all times.
You have over 600 ft/lbs of engine flywheel torque.
Engines displace around 80 - 85% of fuel burned in radiant heat out out to the cooling system & exhaust.
Far from 100% thermal efficiency per drop of gasoline ignited inside of the cylinder combustion chamber.
Brian
Not that it matters...
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When I got home, I left it run with the A/C on. After 5 minutes, it was up to 214. Way better than before. With the old radiator, I wouldn't leave it running at idle.
Since temps are still rising though...an upgrade to the main fan probably wouldn't hurt.
Le Mans Master
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a good upgrade on the fan is the dewitts, alltho quite noisy it works well, you can also buy the fan adapter from them $25 , why reinvent the wheel?, and use it to install your own 16" 's' fan, they should convert to the "s" fan, imho, same cfm or better and very quiet. I bought and have both, mo better. hope this helps
Le Mans Master
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From: Valparaiso
Nice upgrade ! at some point i want to upgrade ,i was watching DeWitts page and caught my attention that the direct fit comes with a transcooler and there is no C4 rad without it
i want to avoid using the trans in series
i want to avoid using the trans in series
