just finished my 85 357ci. looking for a good set of headers that will work. I think i need long tube. What is the difference between long and short tube. Just had car on dyno this weekend. 238 RWHP at 5100 RPM. stock exhaust and stock tpi is choking me. I was surprised to see the 5100 rpm on the dyno with the stock tpi. specs 357 540 lift 230 dur solid lift older dart heads p/ported 10 tp 1 comp. I think with intake and header change i can get to 300 RWHP. All opinions welcomed. Thanks

 

People are starting to try the Stainless OBX headers and they are really cheap for these cars. So far good reviews too.

 

I have an 85 with Stainless Works and an 86 with Hedmann Elites.
The quality of the Stainless Works is top notch. I have seen a pair of American Racing stainless headers and their quality was no where near as good and almost as much money. That is the only drawback to the Stainless Works is they are expensive.
The coated Hedmanns fit good and the coating has stayed looking good for about 3 years so far.
Depending on how much money you want to spend would decide between these 2 as I have had good luck with both.

 

I have an 85 and just installed Hedman Elites.

Fitment was fine, little close to the starter and oil filter but no contact.
Some small fabrication has to be done to retain the factory AC and Alternator brackets. We're talking grinding, hacksaw, and steel tubes.

The Elites have no ports for the AIR pump stuff. Good situation for getting two birds with one stone!

 

If you can afford it get a set that comes with the wye pipe to make your life easier.
I'm not impressed with my cheapo hedmans.

 

I just finished installing thermal coated hedmann headers on my 87, just a few more things to finish up before I take it for a drive. Drivers side was easy, passenger side sucked. I also ported and siamesed my plenum and runners a few months ago, all that takes is time and new gaskets.
Headers look good and I don't hear any leaks, so I am happy for now.
Take your time removing parts, or you will cause alot more work for yourself. Trust me, I know.

 

Hedman has two levels (regular and Elite). I also thought you could get them with and w/o emissions fittings. Hedman is least expensive.

OBX is a new (probably Chinese) copy of the stainless works headers. Very nice looking header for the price. Something to seriously consider. (sold on eBay)

Hooker, TPIS, and Exotic Muscle are the next price point. This is where you hit 1 3/4" headers. The first two are 1 5/8" -- which is probably better for the rwhp you're hitting. The larger size is more for the 400hp level. TPIS gets the best reviews as far as hook-up and compatibility with existing braces/supports. But, DIY supports (for the Alternator and A/C aren't that hard to make. These options are available with and w/o emissions fittings.

Anything else is $1k for a set.

Not sure why you "need" a Y-pipe....as most run duals with X/H pipe with headers.


The difference between long and short tube headers is, of course, the length of the header pipes. Obvious, but worth mentioning. The longer pipes help accelerate the exhaust pulses away from the cylinder head. Because there is a small window of time where the intake valve and exhaust valve are open at the same time, the force of the exiting exhaust pulse can help pull air/fuel into the cylinder -- for better filling. Also, that force helps to evacuate the old, spent fumes for a cleaner subsequent charge. End result is another 15-20hp (vs shorties).

 

I have had the TPIS headers for several years. They fit great. Very well made. If I was buying now, I'd have to go with the OBX headers. Stainless rocks. Good reviews. Even the C6 guys are using them.

 

I installed ARH headers earlier this year to replace my Hooker Super Competition headers. They were quicker by one and a half tenths in the quarter. Not cheap, but quality fit with merged collectors which the other manufacturers do not have. You will probably want the 1 5/8" primaries. I have the stepped headers starting at 1 3/4 going up to 1 7/8. I actually run an open y pipe at the track to increase torque and lower sound. The y-pipe did not slow the car down on back to back runs.

 

I had great results with Pacesetter Shorty headers. Against all advice, I bought them to stay Cal legal and they fit my budget. I gained 20+ HP, from 342 RWHP to 366 RWHP. Now, my 383 is very well mod'd with CNC heads, LT4 cam and 1.6 Roller rockers so it may not work for you.
And it was cutting out at 4800 rpm which caused us to find a broken inner valve spring and other bad ones. That is being repaired right now. Hope to turn 6K rpm soon.
I am a happy camper. Good luck with your choice and report back.

 

Impressive gain for a shorty on an LT car. Did any other exhaust mods accompany this swap?

 

I love my Hooker long tubes. They are on the pricy side, but this was one of my all out or go home moments.

 

I added 3" stainless steel dump tubes right below the headers and just before the Cats. They were closed on the Dyno run. The dumps come out just behind the front wheel. A retro look that shows the erra this old guy came from. You can see it better in my garage photos.
The dyno tuner said I was running lean and richened me up to 14.3 at WOT. I am sure that helped with the HP gain.

 

looks like a pro, nice job. so is it true that the long tube headers give you more hp.

 

Absoluteley the Best for the Price.OBX SS Long Tubes I just paid $475.00 plus $45.00 shipping for a set. A Remarkable Value.