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for what all you do, yes the accumsump has got to be great.
However, Im hoping (for me) mild autoX and road course racing (ex. nelson ledges) a canton road race pan and oil cooler will achieve 99% of my goals at avoiding oil starvation.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I know someone who's oil pressure went to zero at an autocross with a road race pan. Lots of fast turns.
the accusump doesn't weight much itself ~5lbs, plus the weight of the oil, the valve and the lines.
it's been raining a lot here, need to replace my street tires, but I don't want to do that till I get the Wilwoods mounted up, they're looking not to clear the stock rims.
Here is where I put mine. I moved the battery to behind the the passenger seat and used the cruise control bracket to hold the top of the accusump in place. The ball valve came off and an electronic one went it. I drove on the street like this also for about 2 years with no issues.
Here is where the valve went
Since my car is going full race car I am going to attach the accusump to the frame on the passenger side to move some weight over there. It will fit now that I removed the heater and windshield washer bottle.
Dizwiz -
This setup ran consistant 1:15.xx laps at Nelson Ledges on a stock engine. Only modifications were headers and open exhaust, and 5 year old Kumho V710s On the stock HP the straight speeds were not fast but the lateral loads were high. After every run the accusump was HOT so I know oil was going in and out of it, and it was working. Would the engine have blown without it? I dont know but an engine is a lot more money than a $300 accusump.
I've been looking at the accusumps, I have a couple of questions:
1) What size are you running 2 or 3qts or larger?
2) Do you use the electric connector set @ 25 psi?
3) total cost, with connectors/lines etc?
Thanks
Here is where I put mine. I moved the battery to behind the the passenger seat and used the cruise control bracket to hold the top of the accusump in place. The ball valve came off and an electronic one went it. I drove on the street like this also for about 2 years with no issues.
Here is where the valve went
Since my car is going full race car I am going to attach the accusump to the frame on the passenger side to move some weight over there. It will fit now that I removed the heater and windshield washer bottle.
Dizwiz -
This setup ran consistant 1:15.xx laps at Nelson Ledges on a stock engine. Only modifications were headers and open exhaust, and 5 year old Kumho V710s On the stock HP the straight speeds were not fast but the lateral loads were high. After every run the accusump was HOT so I know oil was going in and out of it, and it was working. Would the engine have blown without it? I dont know but an engine is a lot more money than a $300 accusump.
Man I feel slow. The best I ran, on street uhp tires, there was 86 seconds.
Of course, I didn't run the kink wide open, so I think that could be part of it.
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Originally Posted by MK 82;
This message is hidden because MK 82 is on your ignore list.
Looks like my stocker is back from banned camp
Kubs,
Nice install, that's where I was going to put mine till I thought about putting it out back with the oil cooler.
So far it's working out.
Though it does take about a mile of driving to get the 13qts to warm up! something to think about if I trailer it to an event.
Originally Posted by kmillar
I've been looking at the accusumps, I have a couple of questions:
1) What size are you running 2 or 3qts or larger?
2) Do you use the electric connector set @ 25 psi?
3) total cost, with connectors/lines etc?
Thanks
3qt
it and the fan thermostat controlled fan are on a switch.
I turn it on before I start it, off before I shut the engine off. more reliable that way.
My lines run all the way to the back and I plumbed in a cooler. So my costs will be a lot higher than say Kubs install. Also I ran 3/4in lines because of the length.
For the newbies with these things, remember KOEO (if electrical solenoid) to purge completely all oil before pressurizing canister, and then, to check oil level, get oil warmed up, full pressure into accusump and then shut off valve and EO immediately. Then check oil level on dip stick. I LUVVVVV my accusump, too.