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If anyone remembers my other thread about my fan problems, I solved that issue but still had overheating problems. I started the car today and huge amounts of white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. So I'm gonna replace both head gaskets. Does anyone have any suggestions on a specific type or brand?
If anyone remembers my other thread about my fan problems, I solved that issue but still had overheating problems. I started the car today and huge amounts of white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. So I'm gonna replace both head gaskets. Does anyone have any suggestions on a specific type or brand?
So are you saying that the white smoke is steam? Hence blown head gasket?
For my 87 build I have FEL-PRO 1003 (pre-flattened steel wire ring - 4.166" bore, 0.041" 9.1cc compressed volume).
If you want to increase the compression (and hence performance) you could go for a thinner one. I may do that yet.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Fel Pro, get new ARP head bolts, ARP lube and Permatex thread sealant.
Follow the torque sequence in the FSM and torque the ARP bolts per the instructions that come with them.
Use the lube on the head of the bolts (between the bolt head and washer)
Use the permatex on the threads of ANY bolt that enters a water passage.
I got a Fel-Pro top end gasket kit. It says 7733PT2 on these. If these heads are no good when I pull them, I was thinking of getting a set of Brodix heads with the 235cc intake runners. I plan on building up a new engine later with a mini ram or similair intake. Will these heads work with my stock tuned port set up for now? Lemme, The white smoke is steam, I felt the tips of my mufflers and they were wet.
I got a Fel-Pro top end gasket kit. It says 7733PT2 on these. If these heads are no good when I pull them, I was thinking of getting a set of Brodix heads with the 235cc intake runners. I plan on building up a new engine later with a mini ram or similair intake. Will these heads work with my stock tuned port set up for now? Lemme, The white smoke is steam, I felt the tips of my mufflers and they were wet.
Now you have a steam engine! Water injection! Cheap carbon clean.
Big 235cc runners in the head may not work on a 350 unless you spin it at high rpm all the time. Maybe someone can refer to some engine modelling software to confirm or deny that. I have software called "speedwiz" I can look into.
I got a Fel-Pro top end gasket kit. It says 7733PT2 on these. If these heads are no good when I pull them, I was thinking of getting a set of Brodix heads with the 235cc intake runners. I plan on building up a new engine later with a mini ram or similair intake. Will these heads work with my stock tuned port set up for now? Lemme, The white smoke is steam, I felt the tips of my mufflers and they were wet.
I'd confirm before going any further....the steam/smoke can come from moisture in the exhaust system, a leaking throttle body gasket in the bottom plate, intake gasket...
The quickest way to confirm a head gasket is to watch the water in the radiator...bubbles are bad, foam is worse. Look for bubbles as its revved, and less steam with the cap off. A radiator under pressure CAN force water into a cylinder depending on where the gasket is bad, but more likely is the engine compression pushing gases (greater pressures 180psi vs 15 psi) into the cooling system...bubbles. A badly blown gasket might allow water to seep in during the night when parked...no compression and the cooling system is under pressure from the heat. Thats also the time when its a set up to hydro. Worst deal of all.
If its a L98...for some reason #7 cyl area seems to be a common place for a head gasket to fail. Seen that many times.
Final evidence would be a spark plug thats obviously wet or fouled from anti-freeze/water and cranking the engine minus the plugs to see if water blows out.
I hope its something like a TB gasket....simple but scarey.
Leesvet, I've eliminated the bottom plate on the TB. I started the car this morning right after replacing the old junk thermostat, and I put new plugs in it. The old #5 plug I pulled out had yellow-ish corrosion on it, which looked to me like it was coolant. I was standing behind the car while it was still cold, and the exhaust made my eyes and nose burn. when it warmed up it started blowing thick white smoke out of the exhaust. It smelled just like coolant. A few days ago when I was having the overheating problems, it was sitting in the drive, idling at 240*, both fans running, and the temp wouldn't go down. Coolant was boiling into the overflow tank. Lemme, I plan on doing something over 400 ci.
Last edited by tehcarguy; Aug 18, 2011 at 09:57 PM.
Leesvet, I've eliminated the bottom plate on the TB. I started the car this morning right after replacing the old junk thermostat, and I put new plugs in it. The old #5 plug I pulled out had yellow-ish corrosion on it, which looked to me like it was coolant. I was standing behind the car while it was still cold, and the exhaust made my eyes and nose burn. when it warmed up it started blowing thick white smoke out of the exhaust. It smelled just like coolant. A few days ago when I was having the overheating problems, it was sitting in the drive, idling at 240*, both fans running, and the temp wouldn't go down. Coolant was boiling into the overflow tank. Lemme, I plan on doing something over 400 ci.
'
yep,
I'd say you've got an acceptable amount of evidence.
Sorry to hear that.....
FYI
NOW is the time to invest in forged parts if you;re shopping cranks/rods etc.
If you build with forged you can continue to upgrade later since you'll have started with a bullet proof bottom end. Good Luck
While it's apart, you will want to have the heads checked for cracks in addition to being cleaned/resurfaced. Depending on mileage, you might want to consider valve guides & seals.
More than one person has found a crack near one or more of the exhaust valves. It would suck to change gaskets, reassemble everything, and still have the same issue.
While it's apart, you will want to have the heads checked for cracks in addition to being cleaned/resurfaced. Depending on mileage, you might want to consider valve guides & seals.
More than one person has found a crack near one or more of the exhaust valves. It would suck to change gaskets, reassemble everything, and still have the same issue.
Cracked heads are common with the iron heads used on your engine. I would inspect the heads very carefully. Having them magnafluxed would be a good idea.
What the f*** is up with #7?!?! I don't get it and I don't believe in coincidences.
While you have it apart....
383 stroker kit!!!
Come on, you know you want to do it!
Or just get a new motor if the block for some reason decided to be bad...
Sounds like something I'd come up with ! (I did use that logic when I broke mine last time)
regarding #7.....
beats the heck outta me !
I was pretty stunned when I started seeing other guys with a blown gasket or a leak thru a bolt or some BS thing involving the heads...around #7. Happened 2 times to me. Last time I looked at the heads and block and could not see whats different...maybe a small amount of distance in the water jacket that makes that cyl a hot spot? dunno...what i DO know is that 7 is the common spot for a problem.
Yes I am gonna have them inspected, and the top end gasket kit I got came with new valve stem seals. Guys, I'm gonna wait and build up a new engine sometime later. I'm only gonna have the top end apart, so I won't be touching the bottom end.