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I just bought a 93 LT1 and it is running hot. 240 degrees on a hot day in downtown traffic. I notice the anti-freeze is the green stuff and my CHilton's manual specifies the Dexcon (orange) for the P series engines. Could this be the cause of the high temps I'm seeing?
It could be or it could not be. If the green was mixed with the orange at some point you could have clogs developing, they don't mix well. Since it is green now, I would go for a flush and try new green at this point.
First though, make sure your fans are coming on as specified as well, these cars run hot but 240 is too high. I run 190-195 in normal temps. If it is say above 80-85F out and stop and go, I can hit 215. Though my fans are programmed to come on lower with my 160 degree thermostat.
There are a gazillion previous threads if you search.
Yes, those are the digital readouts. I've been studying up on the previous related threads and hope to find the source of the problem. Thanks for taking time to reply, I sure appreciate it.
Your '93 came with the "green" stuff from the factory, so I wouldn't change types if I were in your position.
That Chilton's manual is probably better than nothing, but they try group all C4's together.
Not that it matters here, but I believe only the '96 shipped with DexCool coolant.
And that is what I continue to use in mine.
The temps you posted, although are a little high are not completely unheard of sitting in downtown traffic.
Hint: Turn on the A/C, which will force the cooling fans on. The car will run cooler with the A/C on.
Next step, is to make sure your cooling system is in good shape. A good flush/cleaning and will do wonders.
Also make sure there is no trash lodged up the radiator fins. Lay on your back and look up under the nose and you'll see whey these cars are "vacuum cleaners".
I'm going to try a flush this week as well as a new thermostat. I cleaned some debris off the radiator a week or so ago. I also bled some air out of the cooling system but I realize I need to get the car running/hot to get a burp of the system (I purged some air out the blled valve but the motor was not running) . There may still be some air in the system. Many thanks!
There's a 6" slot on the top of the right end of the shroud that allows you to see the radiator and remove debris. I use a 2" piece of PVC with a 90' elbow attached to my shop vac.
The cooling system is pretty simple..except for the system that turns on the fans..not sure about that..but if you want to clean it out totaly you need to remove the knock sensors..that is the low point of the system where all the gunk accumulates..its a PITA but the only way to drain the whole system..the FSM has a section on flushing and refilling the system..everyone needs the factory manual to work on these cars..chiltons is..almost useless...
AH Ha! excellent advice... and greatly appreciated. I'm glad you mentioned that about having to reprogram the fans, also can't wait to get myhands on some 2inch PVC and a FSM.
Also the import of removing the knock sensors. Thanks to all you guys!
re: knock sensors, I can believe it. The engine was supposedly overhauled 18k miles ago so maybe they won't be to frozen in place... We'll see. I ran the car this morning and drained some more air out of the cooling system but I can see it is still getting up to 230 degrees in just a short trip to town. I'm going to try the flush and new stat, pressure test the system maybe. It cools down at highway speeds (208-215) then warms back up to what appears to be the limit when you slow down in city traffic. I'll feel better when I get this fixed. This is my Daily Driver and since we are near 100 degrees everyday, just a matter of time before a head gasket or something else blows up. Thanks guys!
re: knock sensors, I can believe it. The engine was supposedly overhauled 18k miles ago so maybe they won't be to frozen in place... We'll see. I ran the car this morning and drained some more air out of the cooling system but I can see it is still getting up to 230 degrees in just a short trip to town. I'm going to try the flush and new stat, pressure test the system maybe. It cools down at highway speeds (208-215) then warms back up to what appears to be the limit when you slow down in city traffic. I'll feel better when I get this fixed. This is my Daily Driver and since we are near 100 degrees everyday, just a matter of time before a head gasket or something else blows up. Thanks guys!
you may want to do a pressure test on your system. most parts houses have a tester for rent. i just bought a 95. came with dex, and its gonna be changed. but my heater core was leaking and it would heat up to 230+ just driving to town. air bag light came on one day and then it clicked. pass carpet was wet and i knew that wasnt good! for now i bypassed the heater core cuz i daily drive the car. im doing a 170 stat converting to "green" stuff and tuning the car next month so ill replace then.
Your '93 came with the "green" stuff from the factory, so I wouldn't change types if I were in your position.
That Chilton's manual is probably better than nothing, but they try group all C4's together.
Not that it matters here, but I believe only the '96 shipped with DexCool coolant.
And that is what I continue to use in mine.
The temps you posted, although are a little high are not completely unheard of sitting in downtown traffic.
Hint: Turn on the A/C, which will force the cooling fans on. The car will run cooler with the A/C on.
Next step, is to make sure your cooling system is in good shape. A good flush/cleaning and will do wonders.
Also make sure there is no trash lodged up the radiator fins. Lay on your back and look up under the nose and you'll see whey these cars are "vacuum cleaners".
all this right here is sage advice, when I first bought mine it was running 240 or so too, in down town arizona traffic. was about ready to pull radiator and add an electric fan with a manual switch to stop that. got underneath the car and looked at the radiator, plastic bag was covering it and a bunch of pine needles.
re: knock sensors, I can believe it. The engine was supposedly overhauled 18k miles ago so maybe they won't be to frozen in place... We'll see. I ran the car this morning and drained some more air out of the cooling system but I can see it is still getting up to 230 degrees in just a short trip to town. I'm going to try the flush and new stat, pressure test the system maybe. It cools down at highway speeds (208-215) then warms back up to what appears to be the limit when you slow down in city traffic. I'll feel better when I get this fixed. This is my Daily Driver and since we are near 100 degrees everyday, just a matter of time before a head gasket or something else blows up. Thanks guys!
if your in a non-freezing environment couldn't you just run say a solution that is like 30/70 coolant to water to improve the heat transfer ability of the coolant? you would trade some off on the boiling and freezing points, but.... if you dont have to worry about those then those become non-issues. it's what I use to do in my car...
now I am almost tempted to run something like water-wetter just to try it and see how it works.
I tried one bottle of water-wetter, a friend said it took multiple bottles for his vette to cool better. Yes, I live in south Louisiana and could probably run a 30/70 mix.
Start with the radiator, this seems to be the week link in our cooling systems do to debri being injested through the bottom of the car...(bottom feeder)
Your temps are getting kind of warm in my opinion, I see 185-190 highway, and 188-210 city with the A/C running. Out side temps 90-105
I'm guessing your coolent was "green" since the overhaul, and it's probably not worth pulling the Knock sensors...your call.