Distributor Allignment
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Distributor Allignment
First question, where do I get a machining paste such as Prussian Blue? I think that we have some at work, but I'm not entirely sure about that.
Secondly, what are the instructions for alligning the distributor drive gear with the cam-shaft?
I have a general idea, but my book doesn't going into enough detail.
Thirdly, I had a bronze gear on there, with a Billet Crane cam. Is this the best combination?
Thanks much.
Secondly, what are the instructions for alligning the distributor drive gear with the cam-shaft?
I have a general idea, but my book doesn't going into enough detail.
Thirdly, I had a bronze gear on there, with a Billet Crane cam. Is this the best combination?
Thanks much.
Team Owner
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From: SE NY
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Re: Distributor Allignment (NoWorries)
You can use white out to mark the dist; works for me.
You need to drop in the dist to that the rotor will point to #1 wire terminal when that cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
If the cam gear is steel the bronze the dist gear is correct; if the cam has a cast iron gear use such on the dist.
You need to drop in the dist to that the rotor will point to #1 wire terminal when that cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
If the cam gear is steel the bronze the dist gear is correct; if the cam has a cast iron gear use such on the dist.
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Re: Distributor Allignment (65Z01)
If the cam gear is steel the bronze the dist gear is correct; if the cam has a cast iron gear use such on the dist.[/QUOTE]
Hi!
Please don't take offense, but I just went through an experience with the wrong ditributor drive gear.
I believe you have to use opposite metals. If the cam gear is cast iron I believe you have to use steel. And vice versa. I am not sure, but bronze may be okay for both cast iron and steel gears.
:seeya
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Re: Distributor Allignment (jackdaroofer)
Thanks. :) I remember you saying that in the other post. I was going to call Crane today, but ended up having to do some work to my daily driver. I'm going to call tomorrow to confirm.
I've heard that bronze should only be used for race applications, since it has to be replaced often...but my machinist said that it is just fine for street applications as well.
He said I had a billet Cam, as thats how they come from Crane. I assumed alluminum, but that wouldn't be strong enough, would that make it steel? They can't billet Iron, right?
I'll let you guys know what I find tomorrow as for the make-up. Crane's website is just about worthless, they'll catering to ricers lately.
Jack, how did your problem end up? Did you just replace the gear, or did you shim the distributor?
Where do I want the contact? In the center, or should it be distributed all along the groove?
I've heard that bronze should only be used for race applications, since it has to be replaced often...but my machinist said that it is just fine for street applications as well.
He said I had a billet Cam, as thats how they come from Crane. I assumed alluminum, but that wouldn't be strong enough, would that make it steel? They can't billet Iron, right?
I'll let you guys know what I find tomorrow as for the make-up. Crane's website is just about worthless, they'll catering to ricers lately.
Jack, how did your problem end up? Did you just replace the gear, or did you shim the distributor?
Where do I want the contact? In the center, or should it be distributed all along the groove?
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Re: Distributor Allignment (NoWorries)
:cheers:
I bought the proper distributor gear from GM. They changed cams in 1988 and I can never remember wheter I have the steel or the iron cam. In any event, the distributor gears changed also, the 1988 and later gears have a groove around the shaft while the pre 88 gears are smooth.
If someone can remind me if the 88 cams are steel or iron, then the '88 gear is the opposite.
When I pulled the distributor the gear was about halve eaten up. There was also some excessive end play in the shaft. Fortunately I have a couple of spare distributors from my camaros so I took an extra washer from one of them and added it to the shaft of this distributor. You will see the washers when you take the gear off.
That solved the play problem. Car runs great, it did before also. I just wonder where the metal worn off the gear went to.
I am not sure I understand your question about the "contact". Elaborate please or E mail me
:seeya Jack
[Modified by jackdaroofer, 7:52 PM 4/30/2002]
I bought the proper distributor gear from GM. They changed cams in 1988 and I can never remember wheter I have the steel or the iron cam. In any event, the distributor gears changed also, the 1988 and later gears have a groove around the shaft while the pre 88 gears are smooth.
If someone can remind me if the 88 cams are steel or iron, then the '88 gear is the opposite.
When I pulled the distributor the gear was about halve eaten up. There was also some excessive end play in the shaft. Fortunately I have a couple of spare distributors from my camaros so I took an extra washer from one of them and added it to the shaft of this distributor. You will see the washers when you take the gear off.
That solved the play problem. Car runs great, it did before also. I just wonder where the metal worn off the gear went to.
I am not sure I understand your question about the "contact". Elaborate please or E mail me
:seeya Jack
[Modified by jackdaroofer, 7:52 PM 4/30/2002]
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Re: Distributor Allignment (jackdaroofer)
The contact I'm talking about is where the gears mesh. My machinist showed me his cam(the lift on this thing was like .65!), and it had a very small amount of wear directly in the center. At that point, I figured that was the only contact patch, but now, thinking about it, I think that would be the only wear, there could be other contact.
I know which washers you're talking about, I rebuilt my distributor in August, and I'm getting a pretty good idea how this works. So thats where I add shims? I thought it would be on top, where the gasket is. My machinist said that with an alluminum intake manifold, you want at least 0.040 inch play, but 0.060 is best, and I am going to check that(I wish I could be doing all of this stuff, my car is 240 miles away). This is why I assumed that all shims should be done on the intake manifold instead of on the actual shaft.
Also, I'm pretty sure my stock cam('87) was iron.
I know which washers you're talking about, I rebuilt my distributor in August, and I'm getting a pretty good idea how this works. So thats where I add shims? I thought it would be on top, where the gasket is. My machinist said that with an alluminum intake manifold, you want at least 0.040 inch play, but 0.060 is best, and I am going to check that(I wish I could be doing all of this stuff, my car is 240 miles away). This is why I assumed that all shims should be done on the intake manifold instead of on the actual shaft.
Also, I'm pretty sure my stock cam('87) was iron.
Burning Brakes
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From: SF Bay area, CA USA
Re: Distributor Allignment (NoWorries)
As far as alignment goes, get a long screw driver and turn the oil pump drive slot so the slot points from front to back of the engine (parallel with a line from front to back of the car). Crank the engine to TDC compression stroke, drop the distributor in so that the rotor will point slightly toward the number 1 cylinder. If everything lined up with the oil pump drive the distributor will be seated on the engine block. If not try lifting the dist up and turning it one tooth either way to get it to drop into the oil pump drive slot. Look at the bottom of the dist so you can see how it needs to line up with the oil pump. There is no alignement or adjustment to the distributor and cam gears mesh. If the distributor is seated the gears will line up fine.
Once the dist is in make sure your spark plug wires coincide with where the rotor is pointing. Then use a timing light to set your timing.
Once the dist is in make sure your spark plug wires coincide with where the rotor is pointing. Then use a timing light to set your timing.
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Safety Car
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From: Hillsboro OR
Re: Distributor Allignment (NoWorries)
Crane presses on the distributor gear assy on their roller cams so that the stock gear can be used on the distributor. I think this is true for all their roller cams but I would check with them just to be sure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Australia
Re: Distributor Allignment (NoWorries)
Putting shims between the Distributor gear and it's housing adjusts the freeplay (float) of the shaft .
Putting shims between the Distributor housing and the manifold, adjusts where the gear aligns with the cam
to achieve the sweet spot as your mechanic showed you
Putting shims between the Distributor housing and the manifold, adjusts where the gear aligns with the cam
to achieve the sweet spot as your mechanic showed you
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Re: Distributor Allignment (rodj)
If you have a roller cam and lifters, it's a steel cam. The question is if the steel is compatable with stock dist gear or does the cam mfg press on a cast dist gear so that is will be compatable with OEM. For example TPIS catalog has a note to this effect about their hydraulic roller cams being compatable with OEM dist gears.
Further, Comp Cams catalog says that "...most racing hydraulic roller cams are billet steel and require a bronze dist gear. Most street roller and hydraulic roller cams are made of a special steel that is compatable with the standard gear. To be sure contact the cam mfg."
Further, Comp Cams catalog says that "...most racing hydraulic roller cams are billet steel and require a bronze dist gear. Most street roller and hydraulic roller cams are made of a special steel that is compatable with the standard gear. To be sure contact the cam mfg."
