Hawk73ku

I searched the forum for a detailed engine removal procedure for a 1996 and didn't find one. I've never pulled an engine before and could use some serious help. Does anyone have a step by step engine removal procedure? (hopefully with pictures)

I do have a procedure taken from a Hanes manual but some of the steps don't make sense, like remove distributor. Could I have commentary on what is and what isn't needed in the following:

Corvette Engine Removal Procedure 1985-1996
1985 ON
1 Disconnect tile battery cables from the battery, then refer to Chapter 4 and detach the throttle and cruise control cables from the engine (see illustration).
2 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the distributor.
3 Refer to Chapter 12 and remove the wiper motor.
4 Remove the air intake duct and MAF sensor (if equipped).
5 DiSConnect the brake booster vacuum hose and the PCV line-to-canister hose.
6 label and disconnect the vacuum hoses and wires attached to the engine.
7 Disconnect the fuel injector wires and detach the harness from the engine.
8 Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling system, then detach the radiator hoses and heater hoses from the engine fittings. Also, remove the drivebelt from the pulleys.
9 Refer to Chapter 4 and relieve the fuel pressure, then detach the fuel lines at the fuel rail fittings.
10 Disconnect the AIR switching valve at the air conditioning compressor.
11 Remove the catalytic converter AIR pipe.
12 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the air conditioning compressor. Detach the accumulator at the fan shroud and brace.
13 Disconnect the fuel lines at the engine block fittings.
14 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the a1temator.
15 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power steering pump. Detach the power steering reservoir at the fan shroud and brace.
16 Remove the water pump pulley (If equipped), then refer to Chapter 2A and remove the vibration damper from the end of the crankshaft.
17 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then disconnect the wires from the oxygen sensor, the ESC sensor and the coolant temperature sensor (See illustration).
18 Detach the temperature sensor and ground wires from the engine block.
19 Detach the catalytic converter AIR pipe from the right-hand exhaust manifold (if equipped)
20 Detach the transmission oil cooler lines from the flywheel cover bracket.
21 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the starter motor.
22 Refer to Chapter 1, drain the engine oil and remove the 0il filter.
23 Detach the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds and the converter hanger (refer to ChaPter 4).
24 Detach the oil cooler adapter from the block and the line from the oil pan.
25 Remove the flywheel/driveplate cover.
26 If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. The converter will have to be turned to expose the upper bolts.
27 Support the engine with a hoist, then remove the bellhousing bolts.
28 Remove the engine mount through bolts.
29 Remove the engine mount-to-block bolts.
30 Position a jack under the transmission and raise it just enough to support it. A block of wood should be used to prevent the jack head from bearing against the transmission case or oil pan.
31 Move the engine forward to detach it from the transmission, then make one last check to be sure all wires, cables and hoses have been disconnected before carefully lifting it out of the engine compartment (see illustration).
32 Installation can be accomplished by reversing the removal procedure.

PLRX

You need the famous Happy Hooker. It will make your project much easier.



I assume you already got these:

383vett

Get yourself a factory service manual (try ebay). It'll give you correct step by step instructions for your year. It'll be invaluable for your project. Good luck.

96GS#007

Hawk73ku

I have a engine leveler. How would a happy hooker improve on that

Hawk73ku

An actual reference to such a manual would be really helpful. Thanks in advance.

toptechx6

See the link

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage...ls&btnG=Google

Strick

Another very helpful tool would be a good camera so you can take pictures before you take something apart. That way you can use the pictures to help put everything back together. I'm another FSM guy. It's a must.

Zralou

The reason Haynes tells you to 'remove the distributor' is because they are covering ALL models from 84-96, just ignore the items not relevant to your year and most of it should be close.

Sara Lou

Hawk73ku

Thanks. I've been taking pictures and bagging and lableling bolts & parts and have ordered the GM manuals but won't receive for a week or two. Meanwhile I'm in the middle of removal and am at the point of doing something with AC compressor. I don't want to break into the lines so my question is can this be laid up out of the way?

96GS#007

Just move it to the side.

You leave most of the engine intact.
- Drain coolant
- Pull the exhaust (cats back, you can leave the manifolds in place).
- Support engine and remove the transmission
- Remove fuel rail
- Remove nuts from motor mount studs
- Pull engine fully dressed.

Pic of the fully dressed engine with the Happy Hooker...



in this pic you can see the compressor to the side...

PLRX

Pay attention to Jim's threads and pictures. His experience was vital for my LT4 rebuild and that picture with the Happy Hooker is the reason I bought mine.

Hawk73ku

Very helpful! And very nice work! I can see the advantage of that happy hooker over an engine leveler for the vette application as I was looking around for attachment points on the block or heads. I would never have dreamed of hooking on the intake manifold as those bolts seemed kind of small.

I'm also impressed with those blogs indicating they pulled the engine in 2 hours. I will spend more time than that labeling things

Strick

I guess my resolution is not that great. What does the Happy Hooker attach to?

PLRX

to the fuel rail's bolts holes in the intake manifold..

Hawk73ku

I'm stuck on the catalytic converter removal due to the wonderfully sturdy bracket that holds in place and the studs that are hopelessly frozen. Any tips/tricks for getting that sucker free? Does the bracket stay on or have to come off?

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Hawk73ku\My Documents\My Pictures\iPhone\Iphone 181.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]C:\Documents and Settings\Hawk73ku\My Documents\My Pictures\iPhone\Iphone 182.jpg[/IMG]

PLRX

Yep, I love those two juckers. They are 15mm and 18mm. It works better if you buy a small 15mm wrench.



In 2008 I hyper-extended my forearm muscle thanks to that ****.

96GS#007

- Remove the exhaust from aft of the cats and back
- Remove the transmission while supporting the engine
- With the transmission out, tilt the engine back and remove the bolts in question.
- Remove the cats from the exhaust manifolds

PLRX

Good point, he is removing the engine. That way the bracket will be loose once he removes the bellhousing. I remember in my 95 I was installing the shorties and had to loose the cat. That sucked. My 96 I dont remember if I did it your way or the other way. I already had the tools to make it easy.

Hawk73ku

Sorry but pictures didn't upload. Anyway it's the studs that I can't seem to do anything with. Any tips for freeing the CC from the bracket?