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I recently installed headers, removed A.I.R. system and everything was running fine until it threw a code. I jumpered the pins and got code 15, which is low coolant temp. Since I installed a 160 degree thermostat a few months ago I thought maybe it was running too cool between 154 and 160 on a cool morning. I put the stock 180 thermostat back in.
The main cooling fan continues to run constantly and it runs a little rough until it warms up, and then it runs fine. I replaced the main cooling fan relay, temp sensor, cooling fan sensor , I have d/c the battery to reset the ecm and still have the issues. The temp gauge reads LO until it gets to 100 and then it seems to run better, I don't know. Please help
1987 L98 with BP4 option, thermo coated headers, new bosch III injectors, new EGR, 180 degree thermostat.
Can the car be driven with the main cooling fan constantly running without any problems? Once in a while the SES light will go off for about 2 or 3 minutes and come back on while driving. All A.C connections are connected.
Thanks
I recently installed headers, removed A.I.R. system and everything was running fine until it threw a code. I jumpered the pins and got code 15, which is low coolant temp. Since I installed a 160 degree thermostat a few months ago I thought maybe it was running too cool between 154 and 160 on a cool morning. I put the stock 180 thermostat back in.
The main cooling fan continues to run constantly and it runs a little rough until it warms up, and then it runs fine. I replaced the main cooling fan relay, temp sensor, cooling fan sensor , I have d/c the battery to reset the ecm and still have the issues. The temp gauge reads LO until it gets to 100 and then it seems to run better, I don't know. Please help
1987 L98 with BP4 option, thermo coated headers, new bosch III injectors, new EGR, 180 degree thermostat.
Can the car be driven with the main cooling fan constantly running without any problems? Once in a while the SES light will go off for about 2 or 3 minutes and come back on while driving. All A.C connections are connected.
Thanks
you replaced the coolant temp sensor that sends signals to the ecm? did I read it right? on the 90 it is below TB, a yellow and a blk wire, if it reads low or high the ecm changes fuel to injectors accordingly. code 15 is reading that signal, not the actual temp of coolant, the way I understand it.
if it is low reading, but normal ambient, the fuel will be too rich.
not sure what the fan problems are. may not be related.
you replaced the coolant temp sensor that sends signals to the ecm? did I read it right? on the 90 it is below TB, a yellow and a blk wire, if it reads low or high the ecm changes fuel to injectors accordingly. code 15 is reading that signal, not the actual temp of coolant, the way I understand it.
if it is low reading, but normal ambient, the fuel will be too rich.
not sure what the fan problems are. may not be related.
Thanks stoydido, I will replace that, you know what the problem is, too many damn sensors
Thanks stoydido, I will replace that, you know what the problem is, too many damn sensors
if you have the shop manual you can ck it before changing. If you can get your meter on the connectors!
I speak from my 90 experience, but the ecm controls fans, from inputs from CTS, a/c, and vehicle speed sensor. yours has the fan switch in the head, I reckon. have read many forums where it was the problem with over rich condition, but gages read fine.
how could anyone replace a sensor that quickly? I wish problems were really that simple...
jc
Ran down to autozone, had one in stock. It is easy to get to without all that A.I.R. stuff in the way
At least I shouldn't have to replace any temp, fan sensors or senders for a while
Ran down to autozone, had one in stock. It is easy to get to without all that A.I.R. stuff in the way
At least I shouldn't have to replace any temp, fan sensors or senders for a while
Another reason on the books why I didn't drill holes in my beautiful headers.
It's surprising how much havoc that sensor can cause.
FYI: Sensor is used for fuel delivery. A thermistor, it's resistance decreases as it warms up. That causes the 5 volt reference from the ECM to drop and that voltage drop is used to calculate coolant temp. A 15 means there's no drop - circuit is open and if you had a Scanner it would show an impossible coolant temp of -38 degrees. That's allmost always a wiring issue and not the Sensor, though if you've broken or snapped the Sensor in two doing repairs, that could certainly cause the Code. The opposite, a Code 14, occurs when the Reference wire is grounded and the ECM sees 0 volts. A scanner would show a Coolant temp of 300 degrees. This too is usually a wiring issue. Most problems with the Sensor - other than breakage - occur when the internal resistance weakens and it can no longer send an accurate coolant temp to the ECM. That mucks up fuel delivery and causes driveability issues for which there are no Codes.
FYI: Sensor is used for fuel delivery. A thermistor, it's resistance decreases as it warms up. That causes the 5 volt reference from the ECM to drop and that voltage drop is used to calculate coolant temp. A 15 means there's no drop - circuit is open and if you had a Scanner it would show an impossible coolant temp of -38 degrees. That's allmost always a wiring issue and not the Sensor, though if you've broken or snapped the Sensor in two doing repairs, that could certainly cause the Code. The opposite, a Code 14, occurs when the Reference wire is grounded and the ECM sees 0 volts. A scanner would show a Coolant temp of 300 degrees. This too is usually a wiring issue. Most problems with the Sensor - other than breakage - occur when the internal resistance weakens and it can no longer send an accurate coolant temp to the ECM. That mucks up fuel delivery and causes driveability issues for which there are no Codes.
yes, the fsm says open circuit or "faulty connector," not sure why his engine ran fine when warmed up -but, the code was what I reacted to.