4+3 Clutch Questions
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,305
Likes: 2
From: Havelock NC
4+3 Clutch Questions
My clutch is very stiff and fairly difficult to drive. It is brand new and some times I have to push the shifter pretty hard to get it into gear. Is this normal or do I need some more adjusting. I heard that the clutch just has to get some miles on it before it starts acting normal, any feedback?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Re: 4+3 Clutch Questions (tarheelracer)
I just had my clutch totally redone about 500 miles ago. It is stiff at first but will work "soft" after a few hours of working it.
As for the shifter not smoothly engaging, that in itself could mean a couple of things.
1. You could have a bad Synchro
2. Your Clutch might not be installed correctly.
3. Your Shifter linkage is bad.
I am sure there are guys out there with some more clues to...
Good Luck !
As for the shifter not smoothly engaging, that in itself could mean a couple of things.
1. You could have a bad Synchro
2. Your Clutch might not be installed correctly.
3. Your Shifter linkage is bad.
I am sure there are guys out there with some more clues to...
Good Luck !
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
Re: 4+3 Clutch Questions (tarheelracer)
Most likely the clutch pin bushing is worn out which causes the clutch rod to go off axis which requires full pedal depressing to shift without grinding. It also causes higher pedal force. The shaft from the clutch master cylinder has a clevis on the end which fits over a pin on the clutch pedal and the pin has a plastic bushing over it. The GM part # is 14094900 and it is about $6. Move the seat all the way back, remove the panel under the drivers side dash, lie on your back with a trouble light and you can see everything and replace it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,516
Likes: 0
From: Lockport NY
Re: 4+3 Clutch Questions (jfb)
What jfb says totally true. I had this happen to me...
Coming to a traffic light; downshifted to 3rd OK; shift to 2nd was very stiff; the shift to 1st never happened - it was like pushing against a steel plate. No pedal movement at all. I jammed it into N, and a couple Rustang/Ricer guys from a hot dog stand were nice enough to push me out of the intersection. I couldn't see what was going on at pedal, but finally I was able to wiggle & muscle the clutch in (bent the master cylinder/clutch rod doing it) and get it in gear and rolling. Drive home (~3 miles) in 2nd, no stops.
The nylon bushing was worn out; the rod slipped sideways. Jeff Kopp fixed me up with a couple bushings; I figure-8'ed a cable tie around the junction, just in case...
Had to take clutch cylinder off to get rod out and straighten it.
Not a fun time...
Even if this is not your problem, replace the bushing. Wrap a piece of wire/cable tie around the junction. It's good insurance.
[Modified by Rich B., 5:35 AM 5/2/2002]
Coming to a traffic light; downshifted to 3rd OK; shift to 2nd was very stiff; the shift to 1st never happened - it was like pushing against a steel plate. No pedal movement at all. I jammed it into N, and a couple Rustang/Ricer guys from a hot dog stand were nice enough to push me out of the intersection. I couldn't see what was going on at pedal, but finally I was able to wiggle & muscle the clutch in (bent the master cylinder/clutch rod doing it) and get it in gear and rolling. Drive home (~3 miles) in 2nd, no stops.
The nylon bushing was worn out; the rod slipped sideways. Jeff Kopp fixed me up with a couple bushings; I figure-8'ed a cable tie around the junction, just in case...
Had to take clutch cylinder off to get rod out and straighten it.
Not a fun time...
Even if this is not your problem, replace the bushing. Wrap a piece of wire/cable tie around the junction. It's good insurance.
[Modified by Rich B., 5:35 AM 5/2/2002]
