knuckle buster "92"
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 891
Likes: 18
From: Dayton Ohio
A lot of patience and cussing will get you the plugs and wires. To do the cap and rotor you have to pull the water pump and balancer. Might as well replace the whole distributor if you have more than 70k on the clock. (I am assuming you are working with a LT1) I would not worry about the cap and rotor until the distributor needs replaced. Come to think of it I would say the same for the wires.
Pulling the water pump and balancer isn't that big of a deal. It is actually better to install and route the ignition wires properly with them out of the way. I did it last week in two evenings after work.
Matt
Last edited by quickcat; Oct 9, 2011 at 10:18 PM. Reason: add subscription
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,470
Likes: 2
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
You are not going to get the answer you want.
A lot of patience and cussing will get you the plugs and wires. To do the cap and rotor you have to pull the water pump and balancer. Might as well replace the whole distributor if you have more than 70k on the clock. (I am assuming you are working with a LT1) I would not worry about the cap and rotor until the distributor needs replaced. Come to think of it I would say the same for the wires.
Pulling the water pump and balancer isn't that big of a deal. It is actually better to install and route the ignition wires properly with them out of the way. I did it last week in two evenings after work.
Matt
A lot of patience and cussing will get you the plugs and wires. To do the cap and rotor you have to pull the water pump and balancer. Might as well replace the whole distributor if you have more than 70k on the clock. (I am assuming you are working with a LT1) I would not worry about the cap and rotor until the distributor needs replaced. Come to think of it I would say the same for the wires.
Pulling the water pump and balancer isn't that big of a deal. It is actually better to install and route the ignition wires properly with them out of the way. I did it last week in two evenings after work.
Matt
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 4
From: Argillite KY
The more stuff you pull off the front of the engine the better off you'll be. Also, while the water pump is off, I always drill and tap the weep hole for a 1/8" pipe thread and screw in a barb connector from an aquarium supply store or a hardware store. Take a 3' piece of small clear hose and run from the barb connector to the frame and use a rubber/steel clamp to hold it there. Wire ties also work.If the water pump ever does leak.....and it will, the water falls harmlessly to the ground and not on the 300 dollar distributor. It also makes it easier to spot a failing waterpump.
Of course..that's just me.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,671
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
The more stuff you pull off the front of the engine the better off you'll be. Also, while the water pump is off, I always drill and tap the weep hole for a 1/8" pipe thread and screw in a barb connector from an aquarium supply store or a hardware store. Take a 3' piece of small clear hose and run from the barb connector to the frame and use a rubber/steel clamp to hold it there. Wire ties also work.If the water pump ever does leak.....and it will, the water falls harmlessly to the ground and not on the 300 dollar distributor. It also makes it easier to spot a failing waterpump.
Of course..that's just me.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 4
From: Argillite KY
Yep, electric is best. I have them on both my LT1's. I guess my post was for folks that still have their old pump and are removing it and putting it back on. I've had one Meziere pump die on me after 5 years of driving. I did have a used CSR ($75) water pump that I carried for a spare. I changed it along side the road in less than 30 minutes and got water from a nearby stream. Whatever works for a road warrior.
Whatever works for a road warrior.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 7,999
Likes: 14
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Wires - I'll take a contrarian point of view. They are not easy with everything in the way, not impossible. Moving the AC compressor out of the way opens up the driver side. Passenger side has enough room.
Plan on breaking every single one of the plastic wire loom clips. Get new ones or use wire ties. I like the Taylor Spiro pro wires as replacements.
Plugs - Driver side move the AIR hoses and the ASR motor out of the way, then its fairly easy. Passenger side - prepare to get scrapped up. Even with headers #8 will make you invent new curse words. With stock manifolds #6 & 8 are interesting to get out. Thinest ratchet, shortest plug socket that fits, and shortest extension worked for me the last time.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 891
Likes: 18
From: Dayton Ohio
Yep, electric is best. I have them on both my LT1's. I guess my post was for folks that still have their old pump and are removing it and putting it back on. I've had one Meziere pump die on me after 5 years of driving. I did have a used CSR ($75) water pump that I carried for a spare. I changed it along side the road in less than 30 minutes and got water from a nearby stream. Whatever works for a road warrior.
Whatever works for a road warrior.Matt
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Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 4
From: Argillite KY
Got it changed out and back on the road in about 45 minutes
Anyone besides me ever put windshield washer fluid in their radiator? If it's all you got you improvise. Kinda like the time I blew a front tranny seal. I could only drive about 20 miles and I had to stop and add more fluid. I drained my windshield washer fluid, filled the reservoir with transmisson fluid. I put the windshield washer hose in my transmission dipstick. Every time it started to slip I'd just hit the windshield washer button until it stopped. It got me home.
