water pump build
10-14-2011, 11:06 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
water pump build
was doing more reserch on lt1 water pump today to improve the system
found out how the lt1 wp mixes hot and cold water via a special thermostat to avoid thermal shock...probibly another reason my colling system sucked....al the race/performance guys here said remove the thermostat an use a restrictor..its ok dont listen to anyone i know what im talking about!!! well using a restrictor eliminated the lower part of the 2 way thermostat!!! and hot engine water was gushing into the wp and getting pushed throught the engine again ans again crippleing the rads efect!!! well granted standard race v8s rarely use thermostats..i was thinking this..... if i disable the large hole in the wp where the lower seal should be hot water couldnt mix or get into the cold water port...so in effect i could have only cool crisp rad water in the motor...improve flow by eliminating turbulence of the mix and then control flow using restrictors to fine tune the system
found out how the lt1 wp mixes hot and cold water via a special thermostat to avoid thermal shock...probibly another reason my colling system sucked....al the race/performance guys here said remove the thermostat an use a restrictor..its ok dont listen to anyone i know what im talking about!!! well using a restrictor eliminated the lower part of the 2 way thermostat!!! and hot engine water was gushing into the wp and getting pushed throught the engine again ans again crippleing the rads efect!!! well granted standard race v8s rarely use thermostats..i was thinking this..... if i disable the large hole in the wp where the lower seal should be hot water couldnt mix or get into the cold water port...so in effect i could have only cool crisp rad water in the motor...improve flow by eliminating turbulence of the mix and then control flow using restrictors to fine tune the system
Last edited by TRACKMAN2; 10-14-2011 at 11:08 PM.
10-14-2011, 11:40 PM
#2
Max G’s
I think what you are asking is if you should run without a thermostat and possibly someone has told youto be careful of thermal shock. I don't think you need to worry about thermal shock, I don't see a possibility of that happening unless you were at 230 degree and poured 33 degree water into the system, not likely. Here is what I would suggest to do in your race season; install a 180 degree high flow thermostat, change your water/ethylene glycole mixture to @ 70% water and 30% ethylene glycole (green coolant). It doesn't hurt to add a bottle of Water Wetter in the system as well. Try not to use tap water, get a 24pack of purified or spring water from Kroger or other supermarket. And as always, make sure you keep the radiator and area clean. 
10-14-2011, 11:52 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I think what you are asking is if you should run without a thermostat and possibly someone has told youto be careful of thermal shock. I don't think you need to worry about thermal shock, I don't see a possibility of that happening unless you were at 230 degree and poured 33 degree water into the system, not likely. Here is what I would suggest to do in your race season; install a 180 degree high flow thermostat, change your water/ethylene glycole mixture to @ 70% water and 30% ethylene glycole (green coolant). It doesn't hurt to add a bottle of Water Wetter in the system as well. Try not to use tap water, get a 24pack of purified or spring water from Kroger or other supermarket. And as always, make sure you keep the radiator and area clean.
10-15-2011, 12:08 AM
#4
Do You have to run a LT-1 or LT-4 engine configuration in your racing class ?
Just so many little headaches for you to overcome.
Buy a used NASCAR engine at a live auction down Southern, USA.
Like the Charlotte- Raleigh - Durham area.
Have a custom efi system built to meet your specific race needs.
Wire & plumb it all up & go have fun racing.
$10 to 15 k will buy much at those end of race season NASCAR auctions.
I have known a few guys that went to them & came back with a real NASCAR engine.
Not a copy cat build.
Brian
10-15-2011, 12:13 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
have a perfectly good 2002 c5 zo6 as soon as its paid off next summer its gettin a cage and a big shiny ST2 sticker.....if you noticed ive never asked for sympathy im in this for the challenge.....Ican get this to work !!!!!!
10-15-2011, 12:21 AM
#6
Its such a painful process you have to go through.
None of us are right there in your garage with You.
So we are really all just pounding our PUDS on the computer keyboard giving you advice.
Building a 8 - second drag race car is easy compared to a true endurance road race machine.
1 of the ultimate tests of man & machine as 1 running flat out lap after lap.
And for the engine builder & the mechanic helping you in person.
BR
10-15-2011, 12:25 AM
#7
Max G’s
10-15-2011, 12:39 AM
#8
Just to let You know George........
You want the NASCAR Qualifying engine if possible.
Built for speed & horsepower to the full tilt.
Has a full set of Titanium connecting rods.
Titanium wrist pins that are cascadium coated.
Titanium intake & exhaust valves & shaft rocker system is standard afare on all professional built NASCAR engines.
You want the NASCAR Qualifying engine if possible.
Built for speed & horsepower to the full tilt.
Has a full set of Titanium connecting rods.
Titanium wrist pins that are cascadium coated.
Titanium intake & exhaust valves & shaft rocker system is standard afare on all professional built NASCAR engines.