Bad rear wheel bearing?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Santa Rosa CA
Bad rear wheel bearing?
89’, 160k miles. I am the original owner. Wheel bearings are original. Car has developed a slight whining noise, seems to come from driver side rear after about 40 mph. Jacked that wheel off the ground and there is a little in and out play, top to bottom. No such play in any other wheel. Nothing obvious from visible inspection around brakes and knuckle. I am thinking a bad wheel bearing on that wheel. Do you think I am right on the wheel bearing or have other ideas?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
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St. Jude Donor '12
Get a socket for the axle nut (I think its 36mm)
take the cotterpin out and the castelatted cover.
Tighten axle nut IIRC it should be 165 lb/ft.
Now check for play again.
Probably bad bearing, because when they start to seperate you can tighten the nut because it backs off a tiny bit.
When I did mine the first time a few years ago the original bearing came off in two pieces.
take the cotterpin out and the castelatted cover.
Tighten axle nut IIRC it should be 165 lb/ft.
Now check for play again.
Probably bad bearing, because when they start to seperate you can tighten the nut because it backs off a tiny bit.
When I did mine the first time a few years ago the original bearing came off in two pieces.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
Some play is acceptable. Usually if a wheel bearing is making noise, it'll be louder when that side is loaded. Anotherwards, does it make more noise when you turn left vs right? If so, it most likely is the bearing. If not, might want to change the diff fluid and check ujoints.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,253
Likes: 2
From: Castro Valley CA
Get a socket for the axle nut (I think its 36mm)
take the cotterpin out and the castelatted cover.
Tighten axle nut IIRC it should be 165 lb/ft.
Now check for play again.
Probably bad bearing, because when they start to seperate you can tighten the nut because it backs off a tiny bit.
When I did mine the first time a few years ago the original bearing came off in two pieces.
take the cotterpin out and the castelatted cover.
Tighten axle nut IIRC it should be 165 lb/ft.
Now check for play again.
Probably bad bearing, because when they start to seperate you can tighten the nut because it backs off a tiny bit.
When I did mine the first time a few years ago the original bearing came off in two pieces.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Santa Rosa CA
Thanks for the comments. I should have mentioned that the noise does change if turning right or left or breaking. The u joints seem tight but I am ordering new ones along with the new wheel bearing. A 36 mm socket is on the way and I will check how tight the axel nut is as soon as it arrives. I understand that I can drop the half shaft by removing some of the connections to the knuckle for replacement of the u joints. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...g-removal.html Seems like that will also make it easier to get the torx bolts holding the bearing unit in place. I have also ordered a T55, can anyone confirm that is the correct size to remove the wheel bearing unit?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 828
Likes: 103
From: Olney MD
T55
Thanks for the comments. I should have mentioned that the noise does change if turning right or left or breaking. The u joints seem tight but I am ordering new ones along with the new wheel bearing. A 36 mm socket is on the way and I will check how tight the axel nut is as soon as it arrives. I understand that I can drop the half shaft by removing some of the connections to the knuckle for replacement of the u joints. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...g-removal.html Seems like that will also make it easier to get the torx bolts holding the bearing unit in place. I have also ordered a T55, can anyone confirm that is the correct size to remove the wheel bearing unit?
When I did my bearings there was no washer there, so I had to go back in weeks later to put the washer in. It makes a difference!!
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Santa Rosa CA
I can confirm that the three bolts in the back of the bearing are T55s. By taking the axle shaft out it DOES make it easier to do the bearing and the Universal joints at the same time. Don't forget that famous $8 teflon coated washer that keeps your axle from making a popping noise when you take off. It goes between the spindle shoulder and the back side of the bearing. There's a thread on that topic here somewhere.
When I did my bearings there was no washer there, so I had to go back in weeks later to put the washer in. It makes a difference!!
Good Luck!
When I did my bearings there was no washer there, so I had to go back in weeks later to put the washer in. It makes a difference!!
Good Luck!
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Those washers IF they are the correct size, are used to load the tension on the inner bearing race so that part is what is being held by the nut. Then the outer race and bearings can roll freely without being in a bind. If the Washer is not there, the nuts might press on the whole assembly and add some tension to the bearings or side load the bearing assy cauing premature wear.
When you pull the hub assy and remove the 3 torx bolts, consider going to a grade 8 hex. The torx need some thread locker and later can be difficult to remove. The hex has plenty of room for sockets and being a G8 will be more difficult to strip the head.
I had 2 of 3 torx fall out from not having any thread locker applied...almost lost the wheel.
When you pull the hub assy and remove the 3 torx bolts, consider going to a grade 8 hex. The torx need some thread locker and later can be difficult to remove. The hex has plenty of room for sockets and being a G8 will be more difficult to strip the head.
I had 2 of 3 torx fall out from not having any thread locker applied...almost lost the wheel.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 10
From: Apple Valley MN
Some play is acceptable. Usually if a wheel bearing is making noise, it'll be louder when that side is loaded. Anotherwards, does it make more noise when you turn left vs right? If so, it most likely is the bearing. If not, might want to change the diff fluid and check ujoints.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Santa Rosa CA
Those washers IF they are the correct size, are used to load the tension on the inner bearing race so that part is what is being held by the nut. Then the outer race and bearings can roll freely without being in a bind. If the Washer is not there, the nuts might press on the whole assembly and add some tension to the bearings or side load the bearing assy cauing premature wear.
When you pull the hub assy and remove the 3 torx bolts, consider going to a grade 8 hex. The torx need some thread locker and later can be difficult to remove. The hex has plenty of room for sockets and being a G8 will be more difficult to strip the head.
I had 2 of 3 torx fall out from not having any thread locker applied...almost lost the wheel.
When you pull the hub assy and remove the 3 torx bolts, consider going to a grade 8 hex. The torx need some thread locker and later can be difficult to remove. The hex has plenty of room for sockets and being a G8 will be more difficult to strip the head.
I had 2 of 3 torx fall out from not having any thread locker applied...almost lost the wheel.
