1989 L98 engine guide
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Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2010
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1989 L98 engine guide
Engine is in and accessories are being installed.
Some pictures of how my engine looks when completed would be awesome!
Bracket locations.
Fixed water line across front of engine to oil cooler. (if thats where it goes) seems tough to understand original location.
Emission diagram
Elecrical plan (my loom is less than perfect)
Sensor guide
I am getting close and could use some help. I want to start this car.
Some pictures of how my engine looks when completed would be awesome!
Bracket locations.
Fixed water line across front of engine to oil cooler. (if thats where it goes) seems tough to understand original location.
Emission diagram
Elecrical plan (my loom is less than perfect)
Sensor guide
I am getting close and could use some help. I want to start this car.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 13
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,660
Likes: 22
Just follow the torque specs on the brackets and accessory mounts as closely as you would on the aluminum cyl heads....often there is not much of a hole for a bolt to reach in to and few threads to grab. Aluminum strips faster than a drunken cheerleader....
Use all the braces too. There are 2 on the a/c compressor (IIRC) and 1 or 2 on the alt/air pump. These keep the fragile aluminum brackets from twisting around from engine torque that will result in breaking them.
Go thru the wire harness and visually inspect every inch. Its well worth the time and hassle. IF you see ANY cracked or broken insulation on harness wires, replace that section of wire. Solder in new and use heat shrink to insulate the joints. Find the splices in the harness and solder those. The factory method of splicing was nothing more than a cheap crimp with no protection,. the wires pull out, corrode from exposure and cause performance/run/tuning issues that can never be tracked down. Solder those splices and secure them. Wrap the whole harness trunk lines in new conduit and tape it or use tie straps (zip-ties) to close it and keep it closed. This helps seal out water and other chemicals that will get in and rot the thin wire. Because the engine control system is 100% managed by delicate electrical signals of variable resistance or low voltage, the slightest damage to the harness can ruin the best tune and disappointment in a new build.
New connector ends are available at various Corvette stores, catalog stores and even the local auto parts. I've replaced all the inj, most sensor plugs and half the wire under the hood of my car.
Its wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier when the engine is out.
There will be many things that will become inaccessable once the engine is dropped in place...try to get those things perfect now. I relocated several items so that I could access them easily without taking half the motor apart to get to them.
Build it as if you were going to be the guy that has to maintain it. That should solve most debates on how to handle things....
remember, no such thing as "good 'nuff".
Its either correct or its not.
Use all the braces too. There are 2 on the a/c compressor (IIRC) and 1 or 2 on the alt/air pump. These keep the fragile aluminum brackets from twisting around from engine torque that will result in breaking them.
Go thru the wire harness and visually inspect every inch. Its well worth the time and hassle. IF you see ANY cracked or broken insulation on harness wires, replace that section of wire. Solder in new and use heat shrink to insulate the joints. Find the splices in the harness and solder those. The factory method of splicing was nothing more than a cheap crimp with no protection,. the wires pull out, corrode from exposure and cause performance/run/tuning issues that can never be tracked down. Solder those splices and secure them. Wrap the whole harness trunk lines in new conduit and tape it or use tie straps (zip-ties) to close it and keep it closed. This helps seal out water and other chemicals that will get in and rot the thin wire. Because the engine control system is 100% managed by delicate electrical signals of variable resistance or low voltage, the slightest damage to the harness can ruin the best tune and disappointment in a new build.
New connector ends are available at various Corvette stores, catalog stores and even the local auto parts. I've replaced all the inj, most sensor plugs and half the wire under the hood of my car.
Its wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier when the engine is out.
There will be many things that will become inaccessable once the engine is dropped in place...try to get those things perfect now. I relocated several items so that I could access them easily without taking half the motor apart to get to them.
Build it as if you were going to be the guy that has to maintain it. That should solve most debates on how to handle things....
remember, no such thing as "good 'nuff".
Its either correct or its not.
