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Is anyone running a solid roller in their lt1, I currently am running a comp cams 224 230 @ 050. with 536 544 lift with 1.6 pro magnum rockers, and comp r lifters in my 383 and I want to go faster this engine has every thing possible done to it and I know it is under cammed , and under geard, but I am going to change to 4.11s and an 8" 4000 stahl or what ever the cam needs. my best average e.t. is 11.88 at 117 + 118 and a 1.66 60ft. and I think that completly sucks. so please let me know your thoughts. thanks.
Quite a few forum members are running solid roller cams. You'll need to change your lifters, pushrods and springs. When choosing a cam there is always a comprise to be made, but it sounds like you don't mind losing some streetability for a rumpity-rump idle:D
If you don't mind adjusting the valve lash every 5000 miles you'll definetely make some good power.
the cam in my car already has a rel choppy idle, it doesn`t bother me I hardly street drive only saturday nights. thats why I figure I will go solid roller I am just not sure what is the best one for me.
You can talk to some cam manufactures and see what they suggest for your application. Also, take a look at the right hand side of your screen many vendors to choose from that could help you out. See what some of the faster guys are using and get some ideas from them. I would suggest something around 245@.050 on a 112lsa with over .600 lift:D
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: camshaft choices?? (Gogobig92)
Sounds to me like your just throwing parts at the car with no real direction. You need parts to work together. Cartek Redid my LT1 heads, flow tested and then had Comp Cams build a custom hyd cam to match my head flow. Sometime bigger isn't always better.
I am running a solid in mine. Gave up some low end for some top end. My 60' times have suffered so far, but I am still working on launching. I had a 240/250, .615/.620, 114 that ran real well but only made 415/422 rw with my heads. I have since gone to a 256/264, .630/.630, 112 and it pulls well up to 7500 whereas the 240/250 would stop making power around 6300. I have not dynoed the new setup yet, but I am thinking it is close to 440/420 rw. I can not drive it below 2000 rpm or the clutch complains. No big deal, but it does take some getting used to. For normal driving the 240/250 was great. This one is more for race only apps, but I can still drive it to work (stick shift). With some super heads, I could easily make 480 rw using this cam, but my heads right now will not support it.
I am also running a solid roller.I think if you stay in the 245 duration range it will still be quite streetable.Even though mine is an L98 it is somewhat simular to yours because of the miniram. Another nice bonus for going mech roller is the roller lifters probably weigh half as much as those heavy hydraulic roller lifters.I am changing cams also.Im at 242/242 613 lift on a 112 lobe sep, and I am going to a 248/254 because of being undercammed for my cubic inches.I hope to pick up 15 to 20 horse.
yea. I am not thrwing parts at my engine, comp cams recomended the cam that is in my engine, cartek did my heads and intake. I know with just 410 gears and more converter, and getting my car dyno tuned with a d.f.i. I prbably will easily run low 11s, but I am thinking better, a bigger cam, perhaps a solid roller maybe I`ll go 10s on motor. I am in the process of talking to cartek about a d.f.i. and dyno tuning, because I have a chip car..
if your bottom end is strong you could break 10's with a good nx express wet fogger kit. i mean unless your stuck on doing it all engine, why loose streetability for a couple days a month at the track. use power adders :yesnod:
already have a nitrous express system, and I oly drive the car fridays and saturday nights and my bottom end is studed with an eagle forged steel crank, 6" eagle h beam floater rods and j&e pistons which yield 11.2 to1 in my engine. I have already been 10s on a 100 shot, but if I can get it on motor more power to it . I would like to see low 10s to a 9.90 thats my goal with this car on nitrous.
I can not drive it below 2000 rpm or the clutch complains. No big deal, but it does take some getting used to. For normal driving the 240/250 was great.
Chris, do you mean you are getting cam surge below 2000 rpms?
What symptoms does the clutch display? :confused:
Chris, do you mean you are getting cam surge below 2000 rpms?
What symptoms does the clutch display?
The more I drive it the less it seems to do it, but it has cam surge under 2K rpm (worse when there is low load). The clutch rattles a bit when it does it. Basically the same as lugging the engine at 450 on a stock setup. Mine just does it now at 1450. I need to adjust some of the programming to see if I can program the low end timing tables to combat the cam surge, but I have not had much time to do it. It makes it difficult to drive at 20-30 mph, but I rarely do that. I use 1st and 2nd a lot more now for in town driving. It would probably make a big difference for me to run a dual mass flywheel. It would probably make the low end easier.
It's not an LT1 (not really a L98 anymore either :cool: ) but I ran a solid roller in my DFI controlled 396 for quite awhile. Mine was a custom ground Crane with 248/254 duration at .050" on a 114 lobe sep (for N2O) and .600"/.620" lift with 1.6 rockers. I have a HUGE set of heads and at the time I was running a converted single plane manifold. Car went 10.80 at 127 on motor... As someone else mentioned though, you'll give up a ton of streetability and I checked valvelash at every oil change (though it's not a big deal with shaft rockers). My car wasn't all that 'friendly' to cruise in but it was fairly streetable. I tired of it though and switched over to a milder hyd. roller (242/248 at .050" on 114, .595"/.595" w/1.6) and a MiniRam; the car is VERY streetable now and still runs low 11's with a crappy 60'.
-Jeb Burnett
One of the first guys with a solid roller 396, Denny Mclain, gave me some good advice when I redid my 350 to a 396-- you will have more fun on the street and less headaches if you go with a Hydraulic cam in your 396. JMHO-it does not seem worth the extra $2500 for better heads etc for .2/2mph in the 1/4 mile with the solid roller
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: camshaft choices?? (Gogobig92)
yea. I am not thrwing parts at my engine, comp cams recomended the cam that is in my engine, cartek did my heads and intake. I know with just 410 gears and more converter, and getting my car dyno tuned with a d.f.i. I prbably will easily run low 11s, but I am thinking better, a bigger cam, perhaps a solid roller maybe I`ll go 10s on motor. I am in the process of talking to cartek about a d.f.i. and dyno tuning, because I have a chip car..
Why didn't you let Julio pick out a cam for your combination?????????????
Thanks Chris, let us know how the driveability is as after you tune it:)
SpeedDemon motorsports just finished a 396ci solid roller motor and it made some great power and drives great! Maybe the car owner can makes some comments after driving the car a few weeks, I think he's a forum member.
Based on some info from Jeb in another post, I was able to change my injectors settings and the car is a lot more drivable down low. I still have a ways to go but it is getting better each time.
Yes, I should have had julio pick a cam, but I already had this cam floating around the house. and my cam lunges at 2000 rpm on the street also. I am going to get julio to pick me a cam soon, I just had a minor mishap the other day, my engine only has 700 miles on it and one of my comp R series lifters collapsed. anyone ever experiance problems with these lifters. One more question how do you have your comp R`s adjusted ,I adjusted mine at 0 lash and pre loaded it 3/4 of a turn . It is pretty quiet the way they were adjusted, but I am setting them only at a 1/4 turn this time because I don`t know if the collapsed lifter was my error by going 3/4s of a turn , or if it was just a defective lifter.
I think Comp Cams suggests only half a turn after 0 lash. I don't know if the extra 1/4 turn would hurt it though.
I also agree you are under cammed, and if you don't mind a little adjustment every 5000 miles I would go with a solid roller. It could give you another 1000 rpms or so.