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I installed Pacesetter headers on my LT-1 a month ago and the bolts got loose and I blow the Gasket where could i get a good header gasket and I was thinging about putting the Stage8 bolts http://www.stage8.com do they work ??
Thanks
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YellowC4, I haven't used them personally, some friends have and they seem to work. Just a note of caution, most header gaskets have a tendency to shrink after a few heat cycles which is another reason why header bolts get loose (besides vibration). So, even if you use the stage8 bolts you ought to remove the locks after a week or so and retighten the bolts, they put locks back on. As for me, I'm old fashioned. I like the tried and true cross drilling the head of the header bolt and then safety wiring them in place. If you do a neat job with some stainless steel wire it looks kind of cool. Just another way to keep from blowing header gaskets... :yesnod:
From: Phx/but its a dry blast furnace kinda heat AZ
Re: Header Gaskets and Bolts (YellowC4)
Good discussion raised. I'm getting ready to install my Hooker shorties and have been wondering if this would be a problem. Also, I'm not happy with the gaskets that came with the Hookers and will likely get some of the multi-layered FelPro's unless someone has a better recommendation.
The Stage 8 bolts look like what I need for securing the headers and collectors, although they sure are pricey! Another alternative is the ARP's but they don't have any locking mechanism like the Stage8s, that I've seen.
When I installed my Hookers I used the blue Felpro gaskets (#?) and stainless ARP bolts. It was a really tight fit without any locking gizmo's and I haven't had any loosen on me yet. (knock on wood)
Bolts were PN 400-1101.
For header gaskets I recommend Mr. Gasket's "Copperseal" gaskets...Get the D-port version for your motor. They last forever, I've been using the same set since 97 on three different motors! Eventually they will get hard (if you take the motor apart numerous times, that is) and won't seal as well... Pop them in your oven when the wife's not looking and cook them at 450 for about an hour. That will make them soft again. They don't blow out and seal better than any other I've used. For bolts I use stainless ARP 12 pt bolts. After a heat cycle I retighten and never have exhaust leaks.
-Jeb Burnett
I use the copper header gaskets too. A little orange RTV on them on install and they seal great. I am using a mix of the bolts that cam with the headers, some allen head bolts, and the stock bolts for the ones that hold brackets.
SCE and perceys make GREAT gaskets, i almost favor alum over copper, it's thicker. bolts shake loose, the weakest locktight you can find might be a good idea. don't get the super strong stuff !!
The Stage8s are great so long as all header tubes are close enough to the bolt for the half-moon washer to catch. Otherwise they will back out over time.
I use them with the TES on the IROC and one tube doesn't hold (of course the hardest one to get at, #8 rear).
From: Phx/but its a dry blast furnace kinda heat AZ
Re: Header Gaskets and Bolts (YellowC4)
Try Checker Auto or Checkerauto.com (I know they go by different names in various parts of the country). PepBoys can probably get them if they don't stock them also.
Also, check out the gaskets that have the hooks on them (I think I've seen them on both the Felpro and Mr. Gasket's). You set the header in place loosely with the outer two bolts, then slide the gasket in between. The hooks position the gasket for you using the outer bolts. Then you install the rest of the bolts and torque down.:cool:
I'm ordering my Stage8 bolts later today. I want as few headaches as possible after the install so I'll pay the extra $$$.
Well, any good speed shop should stock them and if they don't, they should be able to get them within a day. We sell them... Or, if you have an O'Reilly's in your neck of the woods, I've seen them there as well. The ones you want are the Mr. Gasket "Copperseal" gaskets. Make sure you get the D-port ones for your motor.
-Jeb Burnett