Well my transmission needs to be replaced so I bought a used one. I figured that while I was in there I'd replace the clutch (why not right?). My car is a 90 ZF6 speed. I do autocross the car but I don't really drag race much at all maybe just the occasional test and tune. I'm looking for some recommendations for what to use. I mainly just have some minor bolt ons and would like to get some headers in the future, but nothing much more than that. I have a single mass flywheel and right now there is a 6 puck clutch in the car. It grabs really well still, but I don't like it that much and it is overkill for my setup. I don't want to spend lots of money on it. I'd like to stay in the $400-500 range. I need the throw out bearing as well. Mine makes a weird noise. What are some suggestions? Also links would be great as well.

 

Call carolina clutch! Also check your flywheel to make sure its in spec - you may need a new one and the DMF is unobtanium.

 

I just had the flywheel resurfaced a year ago and it is a single mass aluminum flywheel.

 

Not exactly sure how this all could apply to you because
my setup is so far from stock, but the point is that the
reason your trans is needing to be replaced is not elaborated
on and to be fair and complete in the diagnostic/repair
process it could increase the effectiveness of all efforts to
use this as a chance to look at everything.

In other words, the possibility exists that you may be
treating the effects, not the cause.

Both trans and clutch failures can be linked to bell housing
to pilot bearing centricity, for example. Anytime the
drivetrain assembly is disconnected for any service, it
should be verified.

Do you know if the bell housing transmission mounting
surface is parallel to the block mounting surface?

Do you know if your mounted trans input shaft forward
location is within 5 thou of the crankshaft/flywheel's
pilot bearing centre?

Here's a link to our experience, which despite many
completely different factors, may still be generally
applicable for trouble free, reliable, and durable quality
assembly outcomes. With everything disassembled,
this is the best and easiest time to check.

http://alturl.com/n9zch

As for the clutch, experience shows that there can be
vast differences in the options you have from different
suppliers and that thorough homework is very helpful
in getting best results.

Here's some of what we went through on that:

Goto: See reply #244

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...tarted-13.html

If you are using the car for any test 'n tune's we'd
definitely recommend the ZF Doc's excellent "C" beam
mounting plates(see link below)and that you have your
"C" beam's mounting surfaces squared up at a good
machine shop.

http://www.zfdoc.com/c4beamplate.htm

Hope at least some of this is useful. If you intend
to keep the car, your benefit will be maximum
component life, minimum service.




.

 

Wow that is a lot of information, thanks! I bought the car as a roller. It used to have a turbocharged 383 in it that made 600 hp and I think that it was just the stock transmission. I'm pretty sure that was a big factor as to why it went bad but I can check a number of those things that you mentioned. The company I work for is mainly just a large machine shop so I can bring the parts in and see if the 2 surfaces are parallel on the bell housing and check some other things that you listed.

 

Unless I missed it in this post, spend the extra money and get a Delco T/O bearing. I did the clutch. T/O bearing and dual mass thing some time ago, and the T/O bearing came apart after only 5K miles. The delco is a little pricey but that is a lot of work to go through just to save a buck. The delco was noticably beefier than the Chinese one.