When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Who has done 4inch stroke with 4.030 bore with a stock block. Any details and how did it work for you?
I have done several 4" and even a 4.125" stroke in a factory block. The requirement is a good (read as $) set of rods. Oliver billets used in each of my long stroke builds.
I still run a 4" stroke in my '87 with boost (0.030 over, 408cid). The block is half-filled, not because it hit water with clearancing, but moreover because of the extreme loads associated with high boost.
These long stroke motors will last a long time when built properly.
You can get a Dart SHP block for $1500 and have some assurance it will hold up to 410 and more. After what I had spent on my last stroker combo it would have been a bigger and better engine with a new block.
I agree. With all the money that would go into machining a factory block for such a large displacement I feel you would be better off just buying the Dart SHP block.
Just looking at some different things to do with the basics of what I already have. I've considered just selling my current motor, top to bottom, and starting with something new.
Hey, who wants to buy a nice 383!!!
If you start with that new block it is designed for Hyd Roller lifters. So keep that in mind when you design the build around the new block. If you stay with the TPI you could build a 400HP 500ftTQ monster that would have folks thinking you have a BBC underhood.
If you start with that new block it is designed for Hyd Roller lifters. So keep that in mind when you design the build around the new block. If you stay with the TPI you could build a 400HP 500ftTQ monster that would have folks thinking you have a BBC underhood.
If I built that, I'd be going backwards. I'm right at 500 hp now.
And for some of us there is value in the long block appearing stock.
My engine still appears to be a factory block (which some might think is 350 CID), and the heads appear to be factory aluminum (special work done to raise the valve covers to clear the Jexel shafts).
This is why you would put a 4" (or more) stroke in a factory block. All appears fairly stock. Until you start it...
And for some of us there is value in the long block appearing stock.
My engine still appears to be a factory block (which some might think is 350 CID), and the heads appear to be factory aluminum (special work done to raise the valve covers to clear the Jexel shafts).
This is why you would put a 4" (or more) stroke in a factory block. All appears fairly stock. Until you start it...
I do like that part of it. Also, face it, money is always in the thought process. I know the side loading isn't very favorable with this combo, but for 95 percent track usage, how big a deal is it. With good parts, how much rpm is doable?
I do like that part of it. Also, face it, money is always in the thought process. I know the side loading isn't very favorable with this combo, but for 95 percent track usage, how big a deal is it. With good parts, how much rpm is doable?
I typically don't spin it much past 6400, though I have run it to 6700 according to the FAST datalog. HP continues to climb past 6400, it just sounds as if all he!! is about to break loose.
Yes, actually it does. I'm kinda surprised you don't see more guys using it. I'm waiting on the shop that did my current short block, he may have a 406 short block that I'm interested in. Thanks for all the input.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.