C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Chevy experimental cam

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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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Default Chevy experimental cam

No specs available on this cam and have not been very happy with performance for this L98 TPI in my 58 using factory timing. Yesterday gave the distributor about 15 degrees more advance without using a light and it's running much better. No ping and runs great. Anyone know of any real down side to timing like this on a computer engine? It's just the way I used to time carbureted engines - max performance with no ping and easy start.

Last edited by mr-natural; Nov 28, 2011 at 10:23 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mr-natural
No specs available on this cam and have not been very happy with performance for this L98 TPI in my 58 using factory timing. Yesterday gave the distributor about 15 degrees more advance without using a light and it's running much better. No ping and runs great. Anyone know of any real down side to timing like this on a computer engine? It's just the way I used to time carbureted engines - max performance with no ping and easy start.
Once base timing is set, the ecm controls the spark advance/retard. The base timing may have not been correct in the first place relative to distributor position. This may be why rotating the distributor made it begin to perform better.
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 11:09 PM
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Had the same problem with my Comp Cam mod. Just kept cranking up the base timing until it pinged. Ended at almost 20 advanced. Checked the timing marks with the piston stop. Checked distributor position. Double checked the knock sensor operation and timing map. The cam just wanted more base than most would agree with. My final is 16 BTDC with the wire pulled. Runs correctly in all temperatures and conditions without knocking on reg fuel.

Been driving her for three years without problems.


Last edited by JrRifleCoach; Nov 28, 2011 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 12:10 AM
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dis-connect the ESC lead set your base to 8deg. dis-connect the battery to clear the now ESC code. you really need to scan your car. and tune to your current cam
without card
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:01 AM
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Hey, L98TPI, JrRifleCoach, and The 383 Admiral,
I've been having such a ball driving this thing lately I just now got back to check my post. Thanks for your input, I agree I need to get a scan tool to see what's happening. Fun, fun and more fun.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Had the same problem with my Comp Cam mod. Just kept cranking up the base timing until it pinged. Ended at almost 20 advanced. Checked the timing marks with the piston stop. Checked distributor position. Double checked the knock sensor operation and timing map. The cam just wanted more base than most would agree with. My final is 16 BTDC with the wire pulled. Runs correctly in all temperatures and conditions without knocking on reg fuel.

Been driving her for three years without problems.

^This guy did what he needed to, and got good results. JrRifle, I'm not sure how big your cam is, but (and this is a hint for everyone) when you go bigger with your cam, and don't increase compression, you NEED to increase your base timing to make it run decent.

I had a 350 with a 234/244 cam and ~8:1 compression w/aluminum heads (I didn't put this engine together!). What this particular engine "liked" with so much cam and such low compression was "flat/fixed" timing; about 32* base and 32* through the range. Yikes.
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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This is why you don't just install a cam without maching specs
And recommendations
Gear
Compression
Flow
Stall for auto
Timing
To much cam with no backup = bad performance
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mr-natural
Yesterday gave the distributor about 15 degrees more advance without using a light and it's running much better. No ping and runs great. Anyone know of any real down side to timing like this on a computer engine? It's just the way I used to time carbureted engines - max performance with no ping and easy start.
I wouldn't. The way you are doing it gives 9 degrees across the board. That means whether it needs it or not, everything is advanced by that much more. Could be detonation but the ECM will pull timing out. I would think it is much better to get it set up right by programming the advance in thru the ECM instead of doing it by distributor. If you want a suit to look good on you but it is a little tight in the neck, you don't want to buy a suit a couple sizes up. Just have a tailor fix the neck part a bit.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Maybe it is installed one tooth off the correct position.
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by THE 383 admiral
This is why you don't just install a cam without maching specs
And recommendations
Gear
Compression
Flow
Stall for auto
Timing
To much cam with no backup = bad performance


Sorry...To install a cam and not know the specs is beyond insane.

A computer controlled engine responds to timing just like a carb'ed one, albeit with better control. None the less, too much timing on a computer engine will burn a valve just like on a carb'ed engine.

You want to fix it? Install a cam that you've matched to the rest of the engine.
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