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Question 1) 84 vette has 2 bad lobes so a cam change is in order.I'm thinking of comp cams 12- 364-4. with jegs stamped steel 1.6 roller rockers (on sale) and I don't want a clearance issue with stock valve covers.Comes as a kit.cam, lifters timing chain set,valve springs,retainers locks and seals.
CAR is an 84- automatic.with renegade intake,headers,no cat, and a chip.Stock ecm.I'm hoping this cam will compliment the other components without other drivability issues.will I be ok?
Question(2) what is the torque spec of the upper plenum and what sealer do I use on the upper plenum? Crossfire solutions doesn't return phone calls.4 in the last 2 weeks,And there E-mail comes back undeliverable.It has some type of brown goo on it now.what do I use when I put it back together?.Back of my mind I remember an indian head sealer in a small brown bottle.
Question (3) Kit comes with teflon seals.any tips/tricks or what not to do. I know teflon rear main seals come with a installer sleeve and go together dry.These do the same?dry?Thanks
Not too knowledgeabe on the specifics for your cam question, but I will bump you up by adding a question.
Why does the cam have two bad lobes and what else was damaged?
I'd 1st start by pulling a couple rod caps, look at the bearings. The cam shavings can really screw up the bearings.
To get the torque spec, you need someone who has an instruction sheet for a renegade. Really, just you common sense when tightening them down, I've changed alot of stuff on engines, I mostly only torque critical components like head bolt, rod, mains, flywheels, ect.
Tighten them in a crisscross pattern, snugging alittle at a time.
You can use rtv to make a gasket or get a sheet of gasket material & make you own. Only special tool you'll need is a gasket punch, you might be able to make one from a sharpened fuel line.
Not sure why the lobes went bad.didn't gm have those problems back in the early 80's? I'll open up the oil filter and have a look inside.my buddy has owned this car for 4 years.never ran right.so he did all these upgrades.Now it's my turn, and I found bad cam.strange thing is, it had NO valve train noise.I asked him about an instruction sheet for the intake.threw it away.So I guess the german spec of goodintight will work on the plenum.I haven't done many upgrades on fi vehicles,I just hope the cam isn't too big and cause drivability problems.as long as vacuum is decent, the map sensor should read ok.
Pull that entire engine apart and clean that block first. The cheap roller rockers are not worth the money IMHO. If you think the cam is a tick to big then build it as a 383 and it will not be to big. Good head work pocket porting gives you more as well.
Not sure why the lobes went bad.didn't gm have those problems back in the early 80's? I'll open up the oil filter and have a look inside.my buddy has owned this car for 4 years.never ran right.so he did all these upgrades.Now it's my turn, and I found bad cam.strange thing is, it had NO valve train noise.I asked him about an instruction sheet for the intake.threw it away.So I guess the german spec of goodintight will work on the plenum.I haven't done many upgrades on fi vehicles,I just hope the cam isn't too big and cause drivability problems.as long as vacuum is decent, the map sensor should read ok.
Out of curiosity...how did you come to the conclusion you have two bad lobes on the cam?
After working on this on/off for 3 weeks.I was out of ideas,so I decied to pull 1 valve cover and run it.Exhaust valve #4 cyl. was not moving.I pulled the cam out,2 flat lobes.(1 on each bank)
I had no signs of it besides it had no power- was a complete dog.I checked and raised fuel pressure,raised timing,compression test.145-160 across the board.steady vacuum reading of 20 in,all reading on the scan tool looked good,all oscilliscope patterns looked good also.idled fine. and had No noise.more than 1/2 throttle,very weak. a mini van would give it a run.It had no backfiring either.but the exhaust did sound funny. The headers,removal of the cat conv.,updated fuel pump( 85-up tpi pump)plugs, wires, cap,rotor, renegade intake,computer chip.was all changed to try and fix this problem.I am the 4 person with their hands in it.Has just over 100,000 miles on it.and is pretty clean on the inside.no sludge at all.If it was up to me,I would pull the engine and slide an aluminum head 383 in it.All said and done,probably won't even get 300hp out of it.100 % street car,never see the track.More invested than a good 450hp 383 would have been.
After working on this on/off for 3 weeks.I was out of ideas,so I decied to pull 1 valve cover and run it.Exhaust valve #4 cyl. was not moving.I pulled the cam out,2 flat lobes.(1 on each bank)
I had no signs of it besides it had no power- was a complete dog.I checked and raised fuel pressure,raised timing,compression test.145-160 across the board.steady vacuum reading of 20 in,all reading on the scan tool looked good,all oscilliscope patterns looked good also.idled fine. and had No noise.more than 1/2 throttle,very weak. a mini van would give it a run.It had no backfiring either.but the exhaust did sound funny. The headers,removal of the cat conv.,updated fuel pump( 85-up tpi pump)plugs, wires, cap,rotor, renegade intake,computer chip.was all changed to try and fix this problem.I am the 4 person with their hands in it.Has just over 100,000 miles on it.and is pretty clean on the inside.no sludge at all.If it was up to me,I would pull the engine and slide an aluminum head 383 in it.All said and done,probably won't even get 300hp out of it.100 % street car,never see the track.More invested than a good 450hp 383 would have been.
Now knowing what intake your using I would highly recommend the largest of the 3 268H cam. I'll have to get the part number for you. I was at a lift of .508 and .512 when using 1.6 rr's. That combiine with the patriot heads,xram,stall,long tubes,gears and nittos 555r's gave me the 13.3 at the track. Bumped my fpi up to 16 to get the fuel I needed to run correctly. It was a proven combo and I've got the data to back it up.
I have not seen the data on the Renegade but will make the assumption it runs about the same as the Xram on the 350 block.
Before just bolting in some new parts I would definetly check your block out for metal shavings,etc.
Mind me asking what chip your using? I ask because when I used on certain aftermarket chip I actually lost 40hp at the wheels
I pulled the cam out,2 flat lobes.(1 on each bank)
I had no signs of it besides it had no power- was a complete dog.I checked and raised fuel pressure,raised timing,compression test.145-160 across the board.steady vacuum reading of 20 in,all reading on the scan tool looked good,all oscilliscope patterns looked good also.idled fine. and had No noise.more than 1/2 throttle,very weak. a mini van would give it a run.It had no backfiring either.but the exhaust did sound funny.
I had the same symptoms in a carbed 350 that wiped 4 lobes. Still ran great though, good idle ...everything that you said. I think the folks above who are worried about contamination are worried for nothing. That is why you have an oil filter. In my case I slapped in a new cam and lifters and the thing continued to run great (but with a lot more power). Run it.
The cam you've selected is definitely not too big. In fact the intake is darn near stock specs. I think the stock cam is 206 on the Intake side.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Dec 4, 2011 at 09:33 PM.
Thanks for the reassurance of the cam selection.
I will open the oil filter up make sure it's not a silver/copper mine .I will also use a scope and check out the cam bearings.
The chip came from crossfire solutions,same place that designed the renegade intake.
I have also bumped fuel pressure up to about 13.5
I'm going to try and talk the guy into having it dynoed,Be curiuos how this all helps.stock is rated @ 205 hp
Any suggestions on installing teflon valve seal?They come with the cam kit.