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OH MAN!!! Ok, here is what happened. Car made a loud noise yesterday morning on the first crank. I took a look and everything looked ok and then it started right up. Had some white smoke coming out of the exhaust but didn't think anything of it because it was a cold morning. On the way to work my coolant light came on. My temperature was fine and I pulled over to check for leaks but didn't find anything noticeable. Since I was only three miles away from work, I continued on. At lunch, the car wouldn't crank..did the same thing as in the morning.."ka chung..ka chung". Tried a little later in the afternoon and got it to turn over but a lot of white smoke came out of the exhaust. I ran the car for about five minutes to see if it would go away and it didn't. A co-worker convinced me not to drive it and bring it to her mechanic of 9 years. This morning I got the news...He said the piston or pistons froze. Needs a rebuild or a new engine. Having it towed back to my house to ponder my 1990's fate.
I agree, but it won't start...kinda like the start engages but can't crank. I think if he kept trying he could get it to turn over. We'll see...I'm going to get a second opinion from my Uncle. This can turn out to be an opportunity to learn more mechanics stuff...or this can turn out to be a big PITA!!
If it will turn over at all they are not froze but would think there's some damage there, sorry to hear about that. If the cylinders aren't too bad and no cracks anywhere a rebuild might be in order. Looks like a 355 or 383 is in your future, that might not be a bad thing.
65Z01 is right after you get home take out all the plugs and see if it turns over then and if it does check if you are getting any water out of the plug hole and I would check your oil and see if you have any water in it.
Dont run it to much more until you make sure it has water in it because if some of the water is gone then maybe the temp sending unit is not in any water to see how hot your engine really is.
Get a breaker bar and attach it to one of your pulley's (A/C is the easiest on an LT1). Turn it. If your damper turns (which means your crank and pistons are turning), that means that your pistons aren't "frozen". The only way that this wouldn't be true is if you've broken a rod. (or a wrist pin or something that would let the piston stay frozen in there.
When you get it home pull all the spark plugs and try to crank it with the starter. Maybe hydrolock if lots of water in there.
Hey.. good point! If all your coolant is in there, it's trying to compress water instead of air, and we all know water isn't compressable ... pretty much at ALL.
Will the engine start with a broken rod...and if so, what kind of (additional)damage is going on? I saw Summit's engine kit,page 18 in the March-April catalog. Is that what I need for a rebuild? Does anything need to be machined? How do you visually check for damage? Does the whole thing need to be hoisted out to inspect for a damaged block? Thanks for all the responses guys!!
Will the engine start with a broken rod...and if so, what kind of (additional)damage is going on? I saw Summit's engine kit,page 18 in the March-April catalog. Is that what I need for a rebuild? Does anything need to be machined? How do you visually check for damage? Does the whole thing need to be hoisted out to inspect for a damaged block? Thanks for all the responses guys!!
Sure it'll run with a broken rod.. but not well. With a broken rod I'll bet your piston would be pushed up so high the valves would be hitting it though.. and that would = one destroyed engine. And it will be way out of balance. Oh, and with a broken rod (if it's still attached to the crank).. you're going to throw it out the side of your block very quickly. I wouldn't try to start it.
Why exactly does your engine guy think it's frozen? How did he come to that conclusion? I have never heard of anyone having that happen on here before.
I agree, head gasket, pull the plugs and see what you got. If it is the head gasket and depending on the milage you may be able to salvage the motor or at least get a few more years out, IF you get the coolant out of the cylinders in time before they decide to cause some rust. If you are afraid of pulling the heads then take it to a mechanic. If you have know fear of pulling the heads, get a book and a video camera. Video everything under the hood and as you remove each component stop and video it. When you go to put it back together its very helpful.
If you have know fear of pulling the heads, get a book and a video camera. Video everything under the hood and as you remove each component stop and video it. When you go to put it back together its very helpful.
YES! I take lots of pictures for that very reason.. and they have come in VERY handy!
Yes I would agree with the group that it is a bad head gasket, just like mine was. The antifreeeze will run out of your back cylinders I bet!!!. When you pull the heads off, you will see that the back of the head gaskets near the firewall will be almost gone. That is where the 350 heats the most and breaks down the head gasket. Wish I could send my pics of my blown head gasket. The rear cylinder would indeed fill with water and make it hard to start, towards the end, the car once almost started the reversed direction as the water was uncompressible. I had good rings though, as none ever got down into the oil. I went the ZZ4 route. The estimate to rebuild a questionable block that mayb be cracked and have heads worked, and new bearings and cam almost cost as much as the new zz4 motor in my DC area. goodluck.....
Chris
another smog legal option besides a zz4 that's very simple to assemble is just finding a rolller block, scat crank $250, eagle rods $220, speed pro forged pistons $300 or KB, GM or speed pro hyper if you aren't going too nuts for less even. speed pro hypers are 150 on ebay. good engine shop, something like a zz9 cam or the lt1 version comp cams, they have a few different models. edelbrock centerbolt heads will outflow the zz4 head by a good 20cfm or more along with retaining a 170cc runner. a combo like that all said and done should run about 3500 and make a good 30-40hp+ over a zz4 with a decent large tube & big mouth base.