I have a 96 LT4 that has a fluid leak. I found one of the metal lines running to the rack leaking at the fitting. Replaced it drove it and Im still dripping fluid. The lines all appear dry. I cant tell 100% where its coming from. I can see fluid on the bottom of the gear unit. It is primarily a track car with an older Turn One rack. My thought is pull the rack out so I can send it off to be rebuilt. Any tips or posts on pulling it out would be greatly appreciated. I do have a FSM but you know how they are sometimes.

 

I'd send it out. Its time. You CAN delay this for months or even YEARS with what has to be the very best bottle of magic on the planet.....LUCAS Rack & Pinion Sealer Conditioner and Stop Leak,.

That stuff is famous for stopping "morning sickness" thats common to Corvette R&P steering. It is also a great stop leak that WILL stop minor leaks for a long long time. Yours probably has a leaky shaft seal like ALL the others do or will have, and mine did as well. I delayed the exchange for several years by using LUCAS conditioner.

This is opportunity to change steering ratios when you DO decide to send it in...if you desire. A fast rack can be challanging to drive in the beginning due to its sensitive nature and ability to change lanes by leaning over in your seat.

Try the LUCAS first...that might just end your problem until a more convenient time....of your choosing.

By FSM do you mean the 2 book set from GM? or a haynes or other semi useless door stop?

Pulling is easy (not really)..get it up in the air, take the sway bar off, drop rack. NOTE the hose angles and positions. be careful with the metal tubing. If bent near the end it can cause leaks in the fittings at the flare because it can't seat properly. Use tie-straps to secure any sections of tubing that do not have clamps. Its also a good time to evaluate the pump condition. IF there is ANY doubt as to the pump, if its ever howled, squeeled, or had to suck air, or foamed the fluid, replace it NOW. I did everything at once and darn glad that I did because its a fairly difficult thing to do one piece or another. Pumps are not expensive...just use the correct puller for the pulley and be careful with the aluminum bracket....its fragile at the ears. It'll break if stressed or pulled on when there is only one bolt holding it by the ear. Those are in production again...but why go there?

Have a good assortment of tools...extensions, u-joints. Have Flare nut wrenches for fittings...very important. Once installed some hose fittings are 1/4 turn ata time. very awkward to get a wrench on/off...so the flare nut wrench is appropiate. Mark the tie rod threads with paint. If you reassemble within 1/2 turn of where the old tie rod WAS it will be safe to drive and be pretty close to where it was. New rod ends are a good idea. Measure new against old to see approx how far to screw on. Eyeballing tie rods adjustment is not difficult. Be certain the rack is centered BEFORE connecting everything ! Sucks to bolt it all up and figure out that you lost a half turn on one side...its kinda obvious with the rods hanging out but it happens......
Make sure the boots are secure, and go for it. After a day or 2 look for leaks and wet spots at boot ends where the boots would collect anything leaking from the seals in the rack body. If the boot is wet....seals are leaking.

I've seen someone literally beat a rack in place and destroy the thing all because he was a jackass and too damn ignorant and lazy to take 10 minutes and remove the sway bars like the FSM indicates. The book is fairly reliable and does NOT take you through unnecessary steps.

 

I agree with Leesvet. I would send it to Turn One again and have it rebuilt. I'm not a big fan of "Fix it with a can".

On a sidenote, be aware that Turn One may not have the parts to quicken the steering ratio. I tried to get mine done, but he didn't have the parts. I'll never let anyone else build my R&P again. I also had him modify my pump for more capacity and better cooling as well. Something to look into for a track car. Mine is also a track only car.

 

Rebuild rack, buy the new pressure hose from rippie and you will fix your leak.
Shoot replacing the pressure hose might fix it - it did for me.

 

I typically do not recommend "mechanic" in a can products. This however is an exception. I run the Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak and Conditioner in all my vehicles regardless if the PS is leaking or not. GREAT preventative maintenance item.

 

It does not sound like it but is the PS cooler completely dry? The metal lines that are brazed into the cooler were leaking on mine; there was so much oil everywhere, it was hard to tell.

 

This is 1 of 2 products that I have found to be everything they claimed to be and more.

I used to have morning sickness in a bad way....took 30 min driving to loosen up and then it was sometimes a violent jerk if I was in the middle of a turn.....

Added LUCAS PS conditioner and the sickness was gone in around....30 seconds! Have not had it since. I also had a very slight rack leak that the LUCAS sealed and I ran that rack for another 8-10 yrs.

 

I appreciate suggestions and the very thorough instructions on removal. I tried the miracle in a bottle trick, figured nothing to loose. Ive driven the car twice and not a drop of fluid. I do have the two book FSM. Between the FSM and the response above, Im ready for when the leak returns. Thanks again.

 

And yet another convert to the Lucas PS fluid...

 

Lucas cured my morning sickness an leak. I can now spend the $ on a new seat of seats.