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Interesting thread StuK. I've been fighting the same problem as you and doing the same work you have for the same reasons. I'm going to go downstairs and quadruple check my ignition wire placement just in case I have them all one terminal off like you did.
Good luck MCM! My car has run perfect since I worked this self-induced bug out.
Thanks! I went and checked it and the firing order was correct as was the placement of the wires. I did notice a large ammount of carbon in the center cavity of the rotor, so I cleaned all that out and changed the bushing making sure to re-grease the rubber seal well. It's idling now and I'm going to take it for a test run to see what happens.
The BATT connector is the one with the pink (not red) wire. It should have 12 volts on it when the key is on.
IIRC = If I Recall Correctly.
The four wire cable goes to/from the ECM and controls the spark advance. You can bypass the ECM connection by disconnecting the EST bypass connector. It is a single wire connector with a tan wire with black stripe, located next to the brake booster (below the windshield wiper motor). With this connector open the ECM spark advance is not present and your spark advance will be whatever the mechanical position of the distributor is set to. It should be 6 degrees of advance. The key item here is that the ECM is out of the equation with this connector open.
I agree with Cliff, try the bypass connector and see if it starts. I had basically the same issue after replacing my distributor and found that I didn't have the wire for the Tach connected good. The engine would turn over but never fire. This is not your case because you are getting gas.
Okay being we are doing C4 ignitions. I just bought a very used C4. I tried to start the car. At least one of the TBI is getting fuel. I took the supple line off. To check. But now I lost my spark. Timing light did not light and I took the plug out held it in my hand and cranked the engine nothing. I made sure that the pink wire was in the cap. Any ideas. Keep in mind minutes before I did have spark.
Oh and I am new to this forum so if I broke any etiquet rules please tell me and I willnot break them again. Thank you
Okay being we are doing C4 ignitions. I just bought a very used C4. I tried to start the car. At least one of the TBI is getting fuel. I took the supple line off. To check. But now I lost my spark. Timing light did not light and I took the plug out held it in my hand and cranked the engine nothing. I made sure that the pink wire was in the cap. Any ideas. Keep in mind minutes before I did have spark.
Oh and I am new to this forum so if I broke any etiquet rules please tell me and I willnot break them again. Thank you
Check and make sure all the wires are connected to the distributor. I also had a problem with my ICM- ignition control module, once before and it was the same symptoms. It is located inside the distributor and controls the spark advance. Mine failed while I was driving down the road, then the engine crank but not start.
Oh and I am new to this forum so if I broke any etiquet rules please tell me and I willnot break them again. Thank you
Well, you did break one rule. It's the rule that if a thread is older than 45 days you should create a new thread. Personally I think this rule is stupid because it breaks up information that could be pertinent. Why search for and read two threads if everything is in one?
The forum moderators can lock a thread so that no one can post additional replies. Sometimes you will see "IBTL" on old revived threads, which means "In Before The Lock".
Thank you Bredd1
I brought the ICM to Advanced Auto. The tester said it is okay but a guy behind the counter has a spare ICM for me to try. So by the weekend I will have tested it with new ICM. Does the ICM have anything to do with the fuel pump? Getting NO fuel.
Thank you Bredd1
I brought the ICM to Advanced Auto. The tester said it is okay but a guy behind the counter has a spare ICM for me to try. So by the weekend I will have tested it with new ICM. Does the ICM have anything to do with the fuel pump? Getting NO fuel.
I don't think the ICM directly has to do with the fuel pump. If I remember correctly, the fuel pump is tied to the distributor tach output to the ECM. Look back into the earlier posts of this thread, it may mention it or it may have been in another post. The ECM looks for revolutions of the distributor then turns on the fuel pump relay. Can anyone else verify this, I'm trying to recall from memory.
Interesting my distributor has two tach wires one goes to a condensor on the manifold the other goes to a female connector with no male. The person that sold me the car said it is in its as parked condition so that means that the other tach wire has no home,?
If I am getting no spark but I do have power going into the distributor. Can I assume it is the ICM?
Thank you
I don't think the ICM directly has to do with the fuel pump. If I remember correctly, the fuel pump is tied to the distributor tach output to the ECM. Look back into the earlier posts of this thread, it may mention it or it may have been in another post. The ECM looks for revolutions of the distributor then turns on the fuel pump relay. Can anyone else verify this, I'm trying to recall from memory.
The ECM uses the DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses) to tell when the engine is rotating (cranking or running). DRPs come from the ignition module and go through the 4 wire connector behind the distributor to the ECM. When the ECM sees DRPs it turns on the fuel pump. This is done so that the fuel pump doesn't run continuously if you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
The tach output from the distributor goes directly to the dash cluster and does not connect to the ECM.
One thing to watch for with ICMs is that they can fail when they get hot. Most auto parts stores will test it once and say it's good. The best way is to test it 4 or 5 times to make sure it keeps working. It gets hot pretty fast, so this is a good test.
ICMs can stop working if they don't have THERMAL (NOT dielectric) grease under them. They get REALLY HOT when the engine is running.
The ECM uses the DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses) to tell when the engine is rotating (cranking or running). DRPs come from the ignition module and go through the 4 wire connector behind the distributor to the ECM. When the ECM sees DRPs it turns on the fuel pump. This is done so that the fuel pump doesn't run continuously if you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
The tach output from the distributor goes directly to the dash cluster and does not connect to the ECM.
One thing to watch for with ICMs is that they can fail when they get hot. Most auto parts stores will test it once and say it's good. The best way is to test it 4 or 5 times to make sure it keeps working. It gets hot pretty fast, so this is a good test.
ICMs can stop working if they don't have THERMAL (NOT dielectric) grease under them. They get REALLY HOT when the engine is running.
I am ordering an ICM. But my basic understanding is this. The pink wire supplies 12 volts to the distributor. The voltage enters the distibutor and the ICM acts like points and sends out the pulses. So if I have 12 volts going in and NOTHING coming out of my distributor. The only possible culprit is the ICM. Correct?
I am ordering an ICM. But my basic understanding is this. The pink wire supplies 12 volts to the distributor. The voltage enters the distibutor and the ICM acts like points and sends out the pulses. So if I have 12 volts going in and NOTHING coming out of my distributor. The only possible culprit is the ICM. Correct?
The ignition coil is also part of that system & could be bad or not producing spark. Again, trying to recall from memory, the way the SYSTEM works, is that you also have a spark control module that controls the advance/retard of the ignition timing. The advance/retard is adjusted through the ECM via the knock sensor.
Cliff or other member verify if I'm incorrect. Thanks!