C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Is This B.S. ?

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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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We have water appearing out of both head studs at #1 cylinder.

Motor Head partner says it’s not abnormal and put a can of stop leak in the radiator, and don’t worry.

I worry. That sounds a bit like.... “ Crap I screwed up... hope this works” ... to me?

Haven't looked under the Valve covers yet....... need the cocktail hour to bolster.


Any experience with this?

Thanks

TJM
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 02:32 PM
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I'm pretty sure that some head bolt holes in SBCs go into water jackets. New head bolts come with a sealant on them to prevent them from leaking.

That sort of fix in a can may stop a leak, but it also clogs radiators and heater cores, and whatever other small passages exist in the cooling system.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TJM
We have water appearing out of both head studs at #1 cylinder.

Motor Head partner says it’s not abnormal and put a can of stop leak in the radiator, and don’t worry.

I worry. That sounds a bit like.... “ Crap I screwed up... hope this works” ... to me?

Haven't looked under the Valve covers yet....... need the cocktail hour to bolster.


Any experience with this?

Thanks

TJM
Are you talking about the head bolts under near the header flanges? You might want to try a can of sealer (I use Irontite) to stop the seepage. There is no harm in it. If it doesn't work, you're ready for a teardown.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Are you talking about the head bolts under near the header flanges? You might want to try a can of sealer (I use Irontite) to stop the seepage. There is no harm in it. If it doesn't work, you're ready for a teardown.


Their studs not bolts... small difference I guess.

Our Motor Head is an ARP freak.

Steel heads. Brand new build. maybe 20 miles on it....

Not fond of the idea of Stop Leak in a brand new everything

Any opinions on pulling one at a time sealing and re-install??

TJM





motor. Just built up from our last fisacoe
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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Not a big deal. You could drain the coolant, remove the offending stud, and then apply sealer to the threads before reinstalling. If you have several that are leaking, only R&R one at a time in order to prevent the head gasket from walking.

Btw...do you mean aluminum heads? There are iron heads and aluminum heads...no steel heads.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 03:14 PM
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You can see it from the outside?
Fresh builds with head studs?

If so dont worry about it, drive the car, thats real common
They will corrode themselves shut
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
Not a big deal. You could drain the coolant, remove the offending stud, and then apply sealer to the threads before reinstalling. If you have several that are leaking, only R&R one at a time in order to prevent the head gasket from walking.

Btw...do you mean aluminum heads? There are iron heads and aluminum heads...no steel heads.
Sloppy Semantics ... they are iron we have taken to incorrectly saying steel or aluminum.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
You can see it from the outside?
Fresh builds with head studs?

If so dont worry about it, drive the car, thats real common
They will corrode themselves shut
Yes and Yes and Thank you.............

We just did the new motor a second time after holing a newly machined piston ... so I worry.....
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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[QUOTE=96GS#007;1579603492]Not a big deal. You could drain the coolant, remove the offending stud, and then apply sealer to the threads before reinstalling. If you have several that are leaking, only R&R one at a time in order to prevent the head gasket from walking.


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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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I'd worry.

But, I'd try to seal the individual bolt/studs IF they will come out, and if they will NOT....bolt it up and drive it..

DO NOT listen to your "Buddy" that has ZERO $$$$ invested in THIS engine when he tells you to put TRASH like stop leak in YOUR new build.

Thats asinine. Thats bubba mechanics at its finest.

ANY type of stop leak will block steam vents, water passages in heads where gaskets overhang the stop leaks will finish the job and cause that area to FRY with no fresh water flowing.

A wet spot around studs is normal. They are supposed to be sealed before assembly...but obviously someone didn't read that page. Chances are that they will corrode or seal off with what little trash is in the system.

Go ahead and run it and don;t worry unless the oil gets foamy OR you start loosing coolant. Check dipstick everyday for awhile and pcv for foaming. if none, forget about it.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TJM
Yes and Yes and Thank you.............

We just did the new motor a second time after holing a newly machined piston ... so I worry.....
How'd ya hole a piston in a fresh motor? somebody playing with spark plug heat ranges? don't do that in EFI engines.....
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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Most engine machine shops have have sealant tablets they put in the block for coolant leaks.They are the same tablets that GM has used for years in their new motors.I believe they are made out of crushed walnut shells.I have seen them stop some pretty good leaks at my friends engine machine shop.They will not clog anything up like stop leak.I would drain the coolant pull the leaking studs and reseal as suggested.I've seen this done at my friends machine shop.It's not uncommon when using studs to have a leak.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 08:41 PM
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Remove the studs, smear some sealer on the threads and reinstall. If you did not use any sealer, do them all now. Ive been using RTV for this since it came out with no problems.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by leesvet
How'd ya hole a piston in a fresh motor? somebody playing with spark plug heat ranges? don't do that in EFI engines.....

Motor Head again... actually it's his motor. He is the POWER guy, I pay for everything else.

So when it goes it's his problem.... like the pistons issue on Build #1 .

Old set of very High Dollar pistons, but 13:1. So he machines the crowns. " No Problem.. Don't worry".

Dyno break in .. and into the car and WOW look at all that Blow By!?!?!?

Melted a hole in one.. four others showing softening...

Surprise!! Some pistons have heat treating .. and Surprise!!! its a couple of mills thick [ apparently] .

So I will research until I am satisfied it's ... " No Problem ".

Thanks for the input.


TJM
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by steven mack
Most engine machine shops have have sealant tablets they put in the block for coolant leaks.They are the same tablets that GM has used for years in their new motors.I believe they are made out of crushed walnut shells.I have seen them stop some pretty good leaks at my friends engine machine shop.They will not clog anything up like stop leak.I would drain the coolant pull the leaking studs and reseal as suggested.I've seen this done at my friends machine shop.It's not uncommon when using studs to have a leak.


I have some of those on the shelf? 10 years old?? But I know what you mean.

Thanks for jogging the memory for a minute!!!
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