I am considering a rebuild and some mild upgrades.
I want to be in the 400hp @ the rear wheels ball park
I want a street car, summer driver, and occasional autocross and drag races (on the track of course bracket racing with friends)

So far im considering

ZZ9 Cam
88-89 Alum Heads (ported and polished)
Roller Lifters
Headers
True Duels with Cut outs
(maybe) a .30 bore
Obviously a burned in chip

My question(s)
are I am really not familiar with the super ram or mini ram?

What are the benefits and drawbacks?
What is the difference in the 2?
What else do i need to do if i go this route?

 

I would use the search button. You will have hours of reading.

 

MR for top end
SR for mid range

http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

 

One thing to consider is that the SuperRam is no longer produced. You will find it only if someone is selling theirs.

 

After market heads and a stroked shortblock with all the mods listed above well get you at 400 at the rear wheel. Plus the intakes listed above..

 

Not 100% true. My stroker made 470rwtq with a miniram.

 

Not 100% true. My 406 runs 10.50s with a SuperRam.

 

who sells the Mini ram new?

 

http://tpis.com/parts/view/33
http://tpis.com/parts/view/38

Better pricing used in For Sale dept's
http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/en...iniram-ii.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...niram-f-s.html

 

From my understanding, it's power under the curve that differs. Max power/tq doesn't prove anything

 

I don't know that you could get 400 RWHP without some major dinero and/or big CID........I've got a 421 and only have 385 RWHP (details in my garage). You don't say if you need to be smog legal, but if you do that would put you into a Superram by default and that would mean torque rather than horsepower. Remember, you drive torque on the street & you race horsepower at the track. You could do a power adder (nitrous) along with a mild build and have the best of both worlds.

 

You forgot to mention that your 421 makes 500rwtq!!

 

Really? After 4-5yrs in this forum, you haven't learned anything about intakes? (Or how to use the search?)

One's easy to install, the other harder. One's a big-azz pancake on the top of your motor, the other looks like an LT intake. One's expensive, the other more expensive. One's got EGR, the other has factory EGR. One's geared toward factory redline power, the other can go higher. (As already mentioned), one's gotta be purchased used, the other not. Depending on how high you spin it, one might require a stout valve train, the other heavy duty. With enough power, one might require a rear-end rebuild, the other might shred it. (If you have an automatic), one might require a torque converter while the other definitely will.

Consider the entire drivetrain, increase your gas/tire budget , and have $5-10k saved up.

 

Sell that car now that you have and save all the money that you would have put into in and buy a C5 Z06 you will be money ahead. But once you drive a C6Z there is no looking back. They out brake, corner and looks and so one. I've had all see sig.

Hears a video of a bone stock no bolt on with drag radials running a 10.71



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioNkk...c7FAAAAAAAANAA

 

Because we all know C6 cars never depreciate.

 

yep

 

Gregg, can you explain this a bit more?

 

http://tpis.com/parts/view/55

 

Gotcha thx. I was thinking in the smog legal zone.

 

You smoking Crack? Brag much on what? Guy was askin a question that I went down the road on. Both Mini and super ram.. You will be money ahead buying a C5.

This one is asking 15K.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevr...item43ac543a14

Time you do heads cam intake tranny machine work and all the other goodis you will still be miles ahead with a Z06. Greg and if you want to can put a ricer wing on a c5 aswell.