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The sensor is getting heat soaked from the radiator, it's not the true air temp. I have some logs of the IAT and it falls as I'm on the gas (it's cooling the temperature down to the REAL air inlet temp.
Here's a log, the blue is the air inlet temp. Notice it drop during the run. It thinks it's 112F at the start and by the end of 3rd it reads 101F. BTW, the real outside temp was 83F.
But still I don't think you will gain anything from it unless you run speed density. MAF cars do not use the air inlet temp in the fuel calculations, it just uses the MAF sensor.
Speed density cars are guessing at the incoming air by using RPM and the manifold pressure so it needs the temp to correct for the right amount.
I thought removing the MAF screen was a no-no? Or at the very least, a no-gainer?
Removing the screens are fine, but removing the heat sinks inside is somthin you dont want to mess with. You may or may not gain anything from it, its better to do this after you require the air that youre freeing up by removing the screens. (like intake manifold, heads, cam) Mojo doesnt show gains on anything bc his girl is a monster and hes a good driver already.
It will mess up the calibration of the MAF if you remove the screens. I had to re-calibrate mine in the low flow range 9-12 grams per second. The MAF was reading too high and adding too much fuel (engine was rich and computer had to remove fuel for 14.7:1 ratio)
For example, the MAF was reading 9-10 grams per second of air and in realitiy only 8 grams per second was entering. The computer tried to add enough fuel for 9-10 grams when really only 8 was going in (too much fuel). I changed the MAF calibration so the BLMs read 128 at idle, works great again.
While driving down the road at around 40 grams per second the BLMs are around the 127-129 range so the MAF works fine in that range. It seems to only screw up the low flow range.