C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Battery connector stud size??

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:01 AM
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Default Battery connector stud size??

I have a 86 and I'm changing out the positive stud connector (had problem getting it to catch a new battery this time)... that stud is really short and a longer one would make life easier for future changes. Is it ok to get a longer stud and how long can you get? Not sure if it would damage battery side connector, wondering why they used such a short stud and thread area? Please help if you can I just got the stud out and want to pick up another one soon? I just figured someone here might have changed for a longer stud or if its not reccomended and I should used one as close to this one.

Thank you to everyone for your help. Main question again is to use the same size or get a longer one if its ok.... I"m sure someone out there has some good advice.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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The reason the stud is so short is that the hole in the battery terminal is not much more than 3/8" deep. Go too long and a longer stud will bottom out and the plate on the cable end will not hold firmly.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Get the exact one. Take one out and take it to NAPA for a replacement.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by c4cruiser
The reason the stud is so short is that the hole in the battery terminal is not much more than 3/8" deep. Go too long and a longer stud will bottom out and the plate on the cable end will not hold firmly.
thanks I just got off with the dealer and they have 1 just a little longer that the guy said would work.......what do you think should I just get the exact same one to be safe... it did last 25 yrs...??? thanks
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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any replys would help asap ... I 'm going to head out in a few minutes but will check before I go.... thanks.....
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by johnven
any replys would help asap ... I 'm going to head out in a few minutes but will check before I go.... thanks.....
Go to Napa they carry the right one.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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I've used a header bolt (3/8") with washers on the backside to accomodate the extra length. You can always wack the thing if you want. The bolt I used had a 7/16 head. There is nothing really special about the bolt if you want to save a buck.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Side posts battery is tapped for 3/8-16 bolts. Press out the existing battery stud and replace it with a stainless steel nut large enough for the a 3.8 bolt to pass thru it, That's now your spacer. Next procure a 11/4 stainless 38- 16 bolt and nut. Run nut to bolt head and screw 3/8's 16 bolt thru the spacer in the terminal and thread into battery. Turn hand tight, then run jam nut down until terminal is good and tight against battery post. Stainless steel nuts & bolts can be purchased singularly from any ACE Hardware. For less that $5 you will never have a battery post failure again , including stripped threads, Behind the stripped threads are 3/8s to 1/2 inch of good threads. This technique has worked for me for the last 25 years on street machines and auto-crossers. Good Luck.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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I used the same size stud and picked up a battery wrench (basically a ratchet type wrench), which made it easier. all hooked up and took it out for ride, Live in NJ and try to run it every so often. Main thing is now I can move it out of the garage, I had a little urgency because it's a tight 1 car garage and the snow blower is front of the car... I usually pull the car in tight in the winter and put the snow blower behind the car. Thank goodness we have had good weather and I'll run it a few days and then do the swap and put it to bed for the winter soon. (I'll still run it on those nice days). Thanks everyone for what is basically a very easy thing to do, I just like to check for those who have done it when I have not ever attempted it. For those who read this, to change the Battery Stud bolt I used a vice grip on the bolt end and wiggled it out (needs a little force and effort), with the new bolt I wiggled it in but it wouldn't go all the way in so I used the vice Grip and closed it with one end on the bolt side and the other on the other side of the metal and rubber connector and it pushed right on through... You could probably just press them real hard with your hands, but I sliced up a finger the other day and took the easy way... good luck.


Once again thanks to everyone, It may seem silly to you advanced mechanic guys, but to us handy types it really helps to just say that hey this is a way i've done it and don't be afraid. The design on the C4 at least not lets say friendly to a first time battery change, but after a few you get it down to lower the fender and slide it out, but really did they have to make it so you have to lower a fender to change a battery.
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