1991 Poor Gas Mileage after Injector Swap
#41
I think this is worth verifying. My stock FPR shows 34PSI (but with a larger injector). OTOH, I believe many have reported pressures in the low-mid 30's -- while the motor is running. This means a jump to 40PSI could send in significantly more fuel!
Pressure while the engine is running will be lower than in the "on" position.
One thing I forgot to mention is than an AFPR can not operate as low as stock pressure. There was a thread on this a few years back. It has to do with the "slug" inside the regulator. By design, that slug raises pressure above stock. So, you're starting higher than normal.
This could be alot of the difference.
Pressure while the engine is running will be lower than in the "on" position.
One thing I forgot to mention is than an AFPR can not operate as low as stock pressure. There was a thread on this a few years back. It has to do with the "slug" inside the regulator. By design, that slug raises pressure above stock. So, you're starting higher than normal.
This could be alot of the difference.
as fuel pressure is increased the o2 and other sensors can interperit this and reduce the pulse width. Vice versa as well...if the o2 sees a rich exhaust it will reduce the pulse.
This is a portion of your problem.
Turn up the FP to 38-40, install a new o2 sensor, (old one is fried by now) and try again. Most of the inj operation is governed by the o2 sensor. Keep that healthy and the fuel system stays happy
The cat is also unhappy and if you have upstream and downstream sensors the cats getting burned out or is burned and damaged due to the excess fuel in the exhaust that causes it to overheat and melt the substrate and clog and die. A sensor after that will deliver bad data to the ecm and ruin the inj pulse.
There are some other clues here...
Think this thru...
If the key ON FP is 40, and the eng idling drops it to low 30s....thats an indication that the injectors are using that fuel and delivering. As the eng runs it takes part of that pressure thats seen on the gauge. It gets replaced IF the fuel pump is in good shape and able to keep up. This is the reason that we like better pumps so there is no lag behind what fuel is used and what the pump can resupply.
If the idle FP does NOT lower by more than 3 psi from key ON....then thats more normal and it says that the FP is keeping up, and the problem is more likely a pulse width/duration issue and not the actual inj size.
EFI fuel systems are like dominos...if any single componant fails or is not in spec, the entire system has to compensate and the calibration gets tossed out the window.
I suspect this is going to be about o2 sensors or fuel pump/regulator.
Has the reg been tested manually by removing the vac line while running and plugging it with gauge attached? Any gas smell in the vac line? Any gas smell In the eng OIL?
Has the harness been checked for a short or crossover firing that WILL make the injectors stay on longer than the pulse thats sent?
Last edited by leesvet; 01-25-2012 at 08:38 PM.
#43
injectors
Are all not the same.Best injectors emissions and mpg ive seen are delfi or rodchester disc injectors.Pintle are ok for performance accell or boche but suck at emissions idle come off rich.And their right some reprogaming may be ness. with boche inj.
#44
injectors
Are all not the same.Best injectors emissions and mpg ive seen are delfi or rodchester disc injectors.Pintle are ok for performance accell or boche but suck at emissions idle come off rich.And their right some reprogaming may be ness. with boche inj.
#45
Instructor
Thread Starter
Let me make reiterate a few things... Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm was replaced with a new BED from Oreilley because it had previously been leaking. EGR valve was replaced because I WAS getting a code (not anymore). Plugs and wires are new. Cap and Rotor are also new. MAT sensor was replaced because I WAS previously getting a code on it as well.
Replaced the thermistat to 180 because I live in San Antonio and it gets really Hot down here. I have had a couple people blame the bad mileage in the thermistat. However I am not sure that that's accurate. My engine still gets above 195 and even at that temp is getting bad gas mileage. Also, I was getting better gas mileage when the engine was cold as well before the change.
No fuel leaks, no fuel in the intake, no fuel in the oil.
Replaced the thermistat to 180 because I live in San Antonio and it gets really Hot down here. I have had a couple people blame the bad mileage in the thermistat. However I am not sure that that's accurate. My engine still gets above 195 and even at that temp is getting bad gas mileage. Also, I was getting better gas mileage when the engine was cold as well before the change.
No fuel leaks, no fuel in the intake, no fuel in the oil.
#46
Melting Slicks
To keep you updated on what we are doing, We have been monitoring our customers for several years, some have no problems, some do. Lets face it. The stock injector is the only one that will work 100% in the cars. We also know they are failing. The alternative is to find an injector that is affordable and easy to install. 5 yrs ago we did. Now we are stepping into another phase of technology. We are now able to fully characterize injectors. Knowing exactly how the injector flows based on PW instead of static, wide open flow. What we have done for the past year is develop a new concept on how we flow injectors. We now have software to determine the flow for PW’s from .5 to 10ms based on any voltage input and pressure. We use a PD flow meter (positive displacement) instead of measuring tubes. The acquisition software can accurately measure these small flow numbers out to 3 sig figs! How we do this is complicated but, easy enough to understand. We flow the injector at lets say 12.8 volts. Set the computer to drive the injector for 200 pulses at 1.5ms. Divide the numbers and come up with the flow per pulse. This number is acquired by another computer. We continue to do this at different PW’s and after lets say 5 tests a X Y graph is drawn on the screen. We can now see where X and Y intersect to determine the theoretical dead time or offset. We then do this at other voltages for an accurate diagnoses of flow. So you say big deal!!! Now we can characterize injectors based on real flow as it performs in the engine. Furthermore, we decided to go one step further. We now have this data from a stock 1991 speed density OEM multec. Now that we know EXACTLY what it is. We can now copy it. We have and always been modifying the Bosch 3 injector to flow whatever we want. We make 30’s 36’s 42’s and 50 lb injector out of them. Of course these always require a tune. So, we have completed a few sets of modified injectors that mimic the 91 multec in per pulse flow. Now we need someone to test them in a real car. So volunteers please PM me. What this means is that we are trying to tune the injector to the computer that is already programmed instead of tuning the car to the injector. Remember, ALL aftermarket injectors will perform differently than stock. Tuning the computer to the new injector is satisfactory, however it is in the dark. Guessing on offsets and modifying VE tables is time consuming and quite frankly a pain in the ***. The masses just want a drop in and go. The guys that mod their cars need a tune regardless.
We have invested a ton of time and money into this project, if I can put it to use for the C4 crowd it would be great. All these tests have been done on a prototype flow bench. We are now in the final stages of completing the hardware etc. A pic is attached of the cabinet I have fabricated to house the internal pumps, pressure regulators, computers, flow meters, power supplys etc. As you can see it will be something that no one has. Software and operation has been verified so we are close. Once done we will characterize each year of the C4 and match up the replacements accordingly. We will also replace any existing set that is not working to the customer’s satisfaction.
I would like to ask Mick who happens to be a good tuner to call me and offer any of his expertise to this program.
Others that would like to participate in the testing I welcome you also.
Please don’t turn this thread into some ******** fight between the members. Our only goal is to find the right solution and continue our support of my favorite forum.
Thanks
We have invested a ton of time and money into this project, if I can put it to use for the C4 crowd it would be great. All these tests have been done on a prototype flow bench. We are now in the final stages of completing the hardware etc. A pic is attached of the cabinet I have fabricated to house the internal pumps, pressure regulators, computers, flow meters, power supplys etc. As you can see it will be something that no one has. Software and operation has been verified so we are close. Once done we will characterize each year of the C4 and match up the replacements accordingly. We will also replace any existing set that is not working to the customer’s satisfaction.
I would like to ask Mick who happens to be a good tuner to call me and offer any of his expertise to this program.
Others that would like to participate in the testing I welcome you also.
Please don’t turn this thread into some ******** fight between the members. Our only goal is to find the right solution and continue our support of my favorite forum.
Thanks
Dave
Last edited by H P Bushrod; 01-28-2012 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Don't go there.
#47
Cruising
Member Since: Jun 2010
Location: Alexandria VA
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Injector change and MPG drop
My '91 L-98 was running terribly. After I installed FIC Bosch 3 injectors, it ran great , but mileage dropped from around 25 to around 18 - 19 (instrument panel mpg, not calculated manually). This matches symptoms noted by others. I noticed fuel pressure also dropped quickly when the engine was shut off. I couldn't find a fuel leak, and thought, possibly an injector was not fully seating (probably stupid, as car ran fine, but I was grasping at straws, and I'm new at this). Jon sent me a new set of injectors (as noted, he is outstanding; knowledgeable and helpful). I haven't installed the new ones yet. I drive conservatively, so likely I'm usually in the range where the disparity between the OEM injectors and the Bosch 3s is largest. Valve covers, runners etc. are off again, ready to install new injectors. (In very few miles, the plenum built up a surprising amount of "varnish," if that helps diagnose the problem.) Reading this thread made me think I should explore a different injector. Is there a better alternative? Or how much trouble is it to retune for the Bosch 3s? Does anyone have any suggestions? I am a novice. I can have injectors installed in a day or two, since everything is off the engine now, ready to pull the fuel rail. Chip
#48
based on what I'm reading in this thread, and on fic site , the 'delphi' , that Fic also sells, is an exact replacement for the multecs,
I'm sure there will be other comments.
http://www.corvetteinjectors.com/sho...?productid=247
at least till things get sorted out
I'm sure there will be other comments.
http://www.corvetteinjectors.com/sho...?productid=247
at least till things get sorted out
Last edited by oldalaskaman; 01-27-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#49
Supporting Vendor
Your new way is only new to you. OEMs have done this for over 2 decades and it is the reason for pulse with corrections vs. pulse width a table in any ECU sice the early 90's at least along with the battery comp tables. I harped on this a while back as a big need and the fact that staic flow is useless as they never run or should never run static so a meaningless number. It is nice to see you are stepping up your program to current standards for quality race injectors.
Dave
Dave
Last edited by H P Bushrod; 01-28-2012 at 09:11 PM.
#51
Melting Slicks
There are some other clues here...
Think this thru...
If the key ON FP is 40, and the eng idling drops it to low 30s....thats an indication that the injectors are using that fuel and delivering. As the eng runs it takes part of that pressure thats seen on the gauge. It gets replaced IF the fuel pump is in good shape and able to keep up. This is the reason that we like better pumps so there is no lag behind what fuel is used and what the pump can resupply.
If the idle FP does NOT lower by more than 3 psi from key ON....then thats more normal and it says that the FP is keeping up, and the problem is more likely a pulse width/duration issue and not the actual inj size.
Think this thru...
If the key ON FP is 40, and the eng idling drops it to low 30s....thats an indication that the injectors are using that fuel and delivering. As the eng runs it takes part of that pressure thats seen on the gauge. It gets replaced IF the fuel pump is in good shape and able to keep up. This is the reason that we like better pumps so there is no lag behind what fuel is used and what the pump can resupply.
If the idle FP does NOT lower by more than 3 psi from key ON....then thats more normal and it says that the FP is keeping up, and the problem is more likely a pulse width/duration issue and not the actual inj size.
Dave
#52
fuel pressure
MAX fuel pressure controlled by fuel pump.The regulator ,controls pressure at fuel rail.Spring pressure in regulator set static pressure.Dynamic or running pressure is controlled by a combination of manifold pressure and or on spring pressure.HIGH VAC. lowers fuel pressrue for economy and emissions.WIDE open throttle, spring pressure unefected by vac. set fuel pressure higher for performance.With vac. line off, pressure shouldn't drop at all.If any thing it might go up due to charging system volt.If pump is strong enough,pressure should not drop off ,even at high rpms.And I would not like normal running pressure below 38 to 40 psi,vac hose connected.I usually buy pumps for vortec engines and install adjustable regulators to set pressure where I like.
I think this is worth verifying. My stock FPR shows 34PSI (but with a larger injector). OTOH, I believe many have reported pressures in the low-mid 30's -- while the motor is running. This means a jump to 40PSI could send in significantly more fuel!
Pressure while the engine is running will be lower than in the "on" position.
One thing I forgot to mention is than an AFPR can not operate as low as stock pressure. There was a thread on this a few years back. It has to do with the "slug" inside the regulator. By design, that slug raises pressure above stock. So, you're starting higher than normal.
This could be alot of the difference.
Pressure while the engine is running will be lower than in the "on" position.
One thing I forgot to mention is than an AFPR can not operate as low as stock pressure. There was a thread on this a few years back. It has to do with the "slug" inside the regulator. By design, that slug raises pressure above stock. So, you're starting higher than normal.
This could be alot of the difference.
#54
Race Director
MAX fuel pressure controlled by fuel pump.The regulator ,controls pressure at fuel rail.Spring pressure in regulator set static pressure.Dynamic or running pressure is controlled by a combination of manifold pressure and or on spring pressure.HIGH VAC. lowers fuel pressrue for economy and emissions.WIDE open throttle, spring pressure unefected by vac. set fuel pressure higher for performance.With vac. line off, pressure shouldn't drop at all.If any thing it might go up due to charging system volt.If pump is strong enough,pressure should not drop off ,even at high rpms.And I would not like normal running pressure below 38 to 40 psi,vac hose connected.I usually buy pumps for vortec engines and install adjustable regulators to set pressure where I like.
#55
Instructor
Thread Starter
The Fuel Pressure Guage I bought from HF didn't fit my fuel rail so I've spoken with a friend of mine and he's got one that will fit so I can check it at that time and let you know the pressure.
As to the Fuel Pressure Regulator I replaced, it was listed as " OE Style; Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm kit" Manufactured by BWD. -So it should be the same pressure as the original when it was new.
Once I get the Fuel Pressure measured at the rail, I will report it here... Just haven't had time to do it yet.
#56
Race Director
The Fuel Pressure Guage I bought from HF didn't fit my fuel rail so I've spoken with a friend of mine and he's got one that will fit so I can check it at that time and let you know the pressure.
As to the Fuel Pressure Regulator I replaced, it was listed as " OE Style; Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm kit" Manufactured by BWD. -So it should be the same pressure as the original when it was new.
Once I get the Fuel Pressure measured at the rail, I will report it here... Just haven't had time to do it yet.
As to the Fuel Pressure Regulator I replaced, it was listed as " OE Style; Fuel pressure regulator diaphragm kit" Manufactured by BWD. -So it should be the same pressure as the original when it was new.
Once I get the Fuel Pressure measured at the rail, I will report it here... Just haven't had time to do it yet.
If you don't know the before/after FP, consider running a poll to see how many people ended up with higher FP after installing an adjustable unit. I tried to explain the reason earlier in this thread. If I had pics, I'd show the reason. But, my camera wasn't working at the time of that discovery.
There was a thread about two years ago the clued me into the issue. If you saw an OEM unit disassembled then saw an AFPR, you'd understand my point.
Edit: This is probably the thread I am thinking of....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...46psi-why.html
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 02-05-2012 at 02:35 AM.
#57
Instructor
Thread Starter
If you know the FP before everything was swapped, that's a good test. If not, I would bet against the new AFPR being the same as stock. "OE style" only refers to appearance IMO.
If you don't know the before/after FP, consider running a poll to see how many people ended up with higher FP after installing an adjustable unit. I tried to explain the reason earlier in this thread. If I had pics, I'd show the reason. But, my camera wasn't working at the time of that discovery.
There was a thread about two years ago the clued me into the issue. If you saw an OEM unit disassembled then saw an AFPR, you'd understand my point.
Edit: This is probably the thread I am thinking of....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...46psi-why.html
If you don't know the before/after FP, consider running a poll to see how many people ended up with higher FP after installing an adjustable unit. I tried to explain the reason earlier in this thread. If I had pics, I'd show the reason. But, my camera wasn't working at the time of that discovery.
There was a thread about two years ago the clued me into the issue. If you saw an OEM unit disassembled then saw an AFPR, you'd understand my point.
Edit: This is probably the thread I am thinking of....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...46psi-why.html
I will check it later this week at my friend's shop if possible. But remember, all I did was opened the original GM Fuel Pressure Regulator and replaced the diaphram. I did not change the whole regulator assembly. So it is not an adustable Fuel Pressure regulator.
When I opened up the original stock regulator and compared the diaphram, spring etc. they looked and felt identical. The only difference was: my original diaphram had holes in it from age.
Thanks for your suggestions/help
Last edited by Fredbird; 02-05-2012 at 04:41 PM. Reason: Clarification.
#58
Instructor
Thread Starter
Took the car to my friend's shop yesterday and he put the Fuel Pressure Guage on it.
Ignition in "ON" Position without having the engine on - 38-39lbs (According to what I had been reading before, that should be correct.)
At Idle - dropped to 30lbs
As he revved the engine it was fluctuating between 30-40 lbs
He checked his shop computer and looked up what the car should be at. He said it should be between 40 - 47lbs
So, according to him, my fuel pressure is low.
So, within the fuel path I've already replaced the "In-Line" fuel filter this past summer, the Fuel pressure regulator diaphram (as you know) and the injectors. The only thing left in the system would be the fuel pump itself. However, at ignition on, the pressure is correct.
Also, maybe it's my ignorance speaking, but how could "LOW" fuel pressure cause poor gas mileage.
Would the injectors be allowing too much fuel to flow and that's what's dropping the pressure in the line when the engine is started? (I don't have enough understanding in this area, that's why I'm asking)
Ignition in "ON" Position without having the engine on - 38-39lbs (According to what I had been reading before, that should be correct.)
At Idle - dropped to 30lbs
As he revved the engine it was fluctuating between 30-40 lbs
He checked his shop computer and looked up what the car should be at. He said it should be between 40 - 47lbs
So, according to him, my fuel pressure is low.
So, within the fuel path I've already replaced the "In-Line" fuel filter this past summer, the Fuel pressure regulator diaphram (as you know) and the injectors. The only thing left in the system would be the fuel pump itself. However, at ignition on, the pressure is correct.
Also, maybe it's my ignorance speaking, but how could "LOW" fuel pressure cause poor gas mileage.
Would the injectors be allowing too much fuel to flow and that's what's dropping the pressure in the line when the engine is started? (I don't have enough understanding in this area, that's why I'm asking)
#59
Safety Car
Took the car to my friend's shop yesterday and he put the Fuel Pressure Guage on it.
Ignition in "ON" Position without having the engine on - 38-39lbs (According to what I had been reading before, that should be correct.)
At Idle - dropped to 30lbs
As he revved the engine it was fluctuating between 30-40 lbs
He checked his shop computer and looked up what the car should be at. He said it should be between 40 - 47lbs
So, according to him, my fuel pressure is low.
So, within the fuel path I've already replaced the "In-Line" fuel filter this past summer, the Fuel pressure regulator diaphram (as you know) and the injectors. The only thing left in the system would be the fuel pump itself. However, at ignition on, the pressure is correct.
Also, maybe it's my ignorance speaking, but how could "LOW" fuel pressure cause poor gas mileage.
Would the injectors be allowing too much fuel to flow and that's what's dropping the pressure in the line when the engine is started? (I don't have enough understanding in this area, that's why I'm asking)
Ignition in "ON" Position without having the engine on - 38-39lbs (According to what I had been reading before, that should be correct.)
At Idle - dropped to 30lbs
As he revved the engine it was fluctuating between 30-40 lbs
He checked his shop computer and looked up what the car should be at. He said it should be between 40 - 47lbs
So, according to him, my fuel pressure is low.
So, within the fuel path I've already replaced the "In-Line" fuel filter this past summer, the Fuel pressure regulator diaphram (as you know) and the injectors. The only thing left in the system would be the fuel pump itself. However, at ignition on, the pressure is correct.
Also, maybe it's my ignorance speaking, but how could "LOW" fuel pressure cause poor gas mileage.
Would the injectors be allowing too much fuel to flow and that's what's dropping the pressure in the line when the engine is started? (I don't have enough understanding in this area, that's why I'm asking)
These larger droplets do not burn as rapidly (or completely) as the mist, and so power is down on the power stroke.
This is how your fuel mileage will decrease with low fuel pressure...
#60
Race Director
What did your friend say about fluctuating FP? The one time I checked mine, I thought it was rock steady. It was a hair lower than I expected (at 34 PSI) but I don't remember much/any movement on the gauge when I tapped the throttle.
Forum? Forum? Bueller? Bueller?
If fluctuation isn't normal, I could see the ECM constantly struggling to find stoich. And, in doing so, err on the side of rich vs lean (to avoid catastrophe).
Also, there was one guy (who participated in the last B3 issue) claiming to be a dyno tuner. Member "dynocar" IIRC. Seemed he claimed that low fuel pressure would cause a rich condition. When I publicly and personally asked him to explain, he never returned with the details.
I've pushed as hard as anyone -- to get to the bottom of the issue(s) but people seldom follow-thru with progress/posting.
Keep up the good work!
Forum? Forum? Bueller? Bueller?
If fluctuation isn't normal, I could see the ECM constantly struggling to find stoich. And, in doing so, err on the side of rich vs lean (to avoid catastrophe).
Also, there was one guy (who participated in the last B3 issue) claiming to be a dyno tuner. Member "dynocar" IIRC. Seemed he claimed that low fuel pressure would cause a rich condition. When I publicly and personally asked him to explain, he never returned with the details.
I've pushed as hard as anyone -- to get to the bottom of the issue(s) but people seldom follow-thru with progress/posting.
Keep up the good work!