89 No start issue
Still nothing, when I turn the key on everything lights up, but when I turn the key to start nothing happens. I do get the red brake light on the DIC and no flashing security light.
So next I thought it may be the starter lockout relay so I cut the green/wht and 2nd yellow wire and shorted them together. Still no start.
As a last possible idea I suspected maye the key switch had broken the rod from the keylock cylinder, so I spent a few hours removing the steering wheel and found the keylock cylinfer and rod intact

So, now Im thinking of manualy cranking the car to make sure the VATS isnt the issue, is there a wire that I can supply 12v to, to manualy energize the starter without having to jack the car up and crawl under it since its parked in gravel?
Any other trouble shooting tips/suggestions?
the ignition key is turned to Start.
The 12 volts comes from a fusible link located at the
Battery Jumper block. You can see a bunch of Orange
colored wires bolted to a stud behind and below the
Battery.
The wires at that stud corrode because the
water from the cowl area is dumped on them.
The 12 volts passes from the Yellow wire to the Dark
Green/White wire when the Starter Enable Relay
closes and then goes through the Neutral
Safety switch for an automatic trans. or the Clutch
Safety switch for a manual trans. and out to a
Purple wire which goes to the Starter Solenoid.
If you have an automatic trans. try starting in Neutral.
For a manual trans. you need to disconnect the plug
at the Clutch Safety switch and jumper it out.
12 volts on the Purple wire then goes to the Starter
Solenoid.
If you have a manual trans. make sure it's in Neutral
before trying to start the engine.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Feb 1, 2012 at 11:28 PM.
the ignition key is turned to Start.
The 12 volts comes from a fusible link located at the
Battery Jumper block. You can see a bunch of Orange
colored wires bolted to a stud behind and below the
Battery.
The wires at that stud corrode because the
water from the cowl area is dumped on them.
The 12 volts passes from the Yellow wire to the Dark
Green/White wire when the Starter Enable Relay
closes and then goes through the Neutral
Safety switch for an automatic trans. or the Clutch
Safety switch for a manual trans. and out to a
Purple wire which goes to the Starter Solenoid.
If you have an automatic trans. try starting in Neutral.
For a manual trans. you need to disconnect the plug
at the Clutch Safety switch and jumper it out.
12 volts on the Purple wire then goes to the Starter
Solenoid.
If you have a manual trans. make sure it's in Neutral
before trying to start the engine.

So now I know i have the VATS key resistor bypassed correctly, so since Im not getting any voltage from the ignition switch I think thats the issue. I removed it, does anyone know how I can test it?
Starter Enable relay click?
It would have been easier to test the ignition switch with it still
on the steering column with the 2 plugs connected.
Plug C1 is the Black Plug with 4 pins.
Plug C2 is the Blue Plug with 5 pins.
There is a Red wire on both C2 and plug C1.
Both should have 12 volts at all times.
That's the 12 volts going into the ignition switch
from the fusible link.
Here's a picture of the ignition switch.
You should measure zero ohms from B2 to B3
no matter what position the ignition switch is in.
When you turn the key to Start, you should measure
zero ohms from B2, B3 to S.
S is the pin that goes to the Yellow wire which provides
12 volts to the Starter Enable Relay.
In the picture you can see a screwdriver. If you insert
a screwdriver in that slot you can manually place the
ignition switch in the five positions.
Accessories
Lock
Off
On
Start (spring loaded)
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Feb 2, 2012 at 07:15 PM.
I replaced the switch $10.99 and shes starting now!
I spent 3 days trying everything, and once I received your reply I narrowed it down within 30 mins.
Thanks again!






