C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Eagle rotating assembly quality

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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:13 AM
  #1  
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Default Eagle rotating assembly quality

Hey, so I'm going to be building my engine pretty soon here, my builder is recommending the Eagle Competition Rotating Assembly, and from what I've read they seem to be pretty good. But one guy I know was warning me that Eagle is cheap and unreliable, so I just wanted a second opinion before committing to it.

This is the kit I'm looking at:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B12111030/

383 CID
Forged crank
Forged H-beam rods
Forged flat top pistons

thanks!
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:50 AM
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The guys that buy higher end Crowler, Callies, etc.... don't care for Eagle/Scat. The guys that build big spinner and really high hp stuff probably won't use it. Occasionally, you hear/read a horry story, but we can't tell if/what was installed wrong.

Way MORE often, you'll see successful builds with Eagle and Scat -- especially for the home-grown backyard guys who don't have $15k-$20 or more to spend on a build.

They are also made in China now but forged is forged and QC has to stay good to avoid going out of business.

Listen to your builder and ignore your friend. Unless he's buying of course!
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 02:53 AM
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I just looked...pretty hefty kit.

I also assume this will be used with aftermarket heads and bigger chambers?

Gotta tell us how much power and torque you're shooting for. How about rpms? Plus, the details of your drivetrain.

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Feb 14, 2012 at 03:38 AM.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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Eagle 4340 was my first forged purchase, it has been great for me (430rwhp/460rwtq) , and IMO, I would not change unless I went above 650HP/650TQ number, then I would go Callies etc.

I am more concerned about TQ and twist than HP.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:07 AM
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I use a bunch of them and don't see any failures.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...a-383-lt4.html hope this helps
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:00 AM
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I laugh every time i read people put down eagle,its usually coming from people that never built a motor or didnt know how to put one together! lol
My other car is a 79 pontiac trans am that i take to track.i built a 455,now 468, pontiac using eagle crank,at the time only cast was aval not even forged for pontiac,eagle h beam rods,and ross pistons.
Its still going strong 5 years later turning consistant 9.80's at 140mph all motor,pump gas in a 3400lb car with 7100rpm shifts nd going through traps at 7100rpms! And thats a eagle cast crank!!
If you talk to any other pontiac guy they will usually cry if you tell them your turning this big main journal motor to 7100rpm but it shows you its all in how you setup and build a motor!
This car also puts down just over 600hp to the wheels and over 500ftlbs tq!!
Dont worry about what other say,if your engine builder knows what to look for and check and knows how to set up a motor you will be fine!
http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=SDV_0101.mp4
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 87L98Z52
I laugh every time i read people put down eagle,its usually coming from people that never built a motor or didnt know how to put one together! lol
My other car is a 79 pontiac trans am that i take to track.i built a 455,now 468, pontiac using eagle crank,at the time only cast was aval not even forged for pontiac,eagle h beam rods,and ross pistons.
Its still going strong 5 years later turning consistant 9.80's at 140mph all motor,pump gas in a 3400lb car with 7100rpm shifts nd going through traps at 7100rpms! And thats a eagle cast crank!!
If you talk to any other pontiac guy they will usually cry if you tell them your turning this big main journal motor to 7100rpm but it shows you its all in how you setup and build a motor!
This car also puts down just over 600hp to the wheels and over 500ftlbs tq!!
Dont worry about what other say,if your engine builder knows what to look for and check and knows how to set up a motor you will be fine!
http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=SDV_0101.mp4

nice video, smoking fast
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 11:17 AM
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More and more, a lot of the parts are made offshore. Sometimes they are ok, sometimes not. Do you need the extra weight of H-beam rods for your build? What are your hp goals? If you are building a good street/strip motor with < 600hp, your engine will rev quicker without having to sling around H-beams. My .02
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Nice Video, nothing like a good running engine. I may have just got a little woody.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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Regardless of what you buy, have it checked. I bought a lightweight forged Eagle crank for my 383 build. When checked, the journals on the Eagle crank weren't flat from shoulder to shoulder , but rather like a "V". This screws up the clearances as you can imagine....if it's correct on the sides, there's too much clearance in the middle and vice versa. I had the crank for so long (sitting in a box) that it wasn't worth trying to return it, so the shop turned it for me.

Link to my thread

The engine has been fine for the last 2+ years....just check the parts before you assemble them. Don't assume they're ok, especially when talking measurements that are in the thousandths of an inch.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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Used one on a small block ford on my mustang and worked fine.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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Default eagle

Whatever forum you look at you are probably going to get the same answer.

The eagle and scat stuff is made in china, and the metal is good, but you have to check the machining because it may be off a bit. I have an eagle crank in my 406, which I had built for me, and if I remember it needed some machining. But even with the machining it was less than a callies/lunati crank.

I just bought a probe 4" crankshaft for a 427 sbc, had it checked out by my machinist and it was on the money. That was made in China too.

The reason why I bought the above...was cost. If you have it checked out and you are not reving the engine above 7500 rpm. You should be fine

If you buy Lunati or callies made in the US... it will cost you more. Further, Ohio crankshaft is made in the US, and a bunch of forums note the machining that is off in their products.

Also, compstar... is a callies product that is case in China, and I believe machined in the US.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 02:22 AM
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check clearances and gram balance. i would poke a guess at some of the eagle failures being due to the big end being out of round and someone running it out of the box. have them resized and machined correctly if there is any variance.

stuff takes serious abuse. i actually know of one 2L 4cyl engine making just over 700 at the wheels using the standard eagle H beam that is more or less identical to the SBC version. in other words WAY over per rod hp rating and still alive
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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I believe Eagle had problems with a few of there crankshafts years ago and this is where the negative comments came from... I haven't heard anything negative for years about Scat or Eagle.. Like mentioned above , everything that goes in the engine should be rechecked, never trust anything until you or someone you trust has checked it ....WW
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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There were a lot of issues with them say 8-10 yrs ago seems QC has improved.

Even on the higher end stuff you ALWAYS have that stuff checked no matter what. Its on YOU if you dont; A good machinist will check every single piece.
Finger pointing and all that isnt worth squat if a bad part took your entire engine out. Sure it costs, but thats to be expected to do one right rather than just assembling something.

All the above cast in China, RPM & CAT too.
Checked and prepped right nothing wrong with them depending on the app

Apparently all an American co has to do is hit a piece with a file and its deemed "Made in USA" even if its a pos or good cast piece over there.
Wish Id saved the link where Id seen that it was from a mfr.

Ive used C.A.T., SCAT and RPM and havent had any issues. Will say the threads/FW fit on the SCAT better than the RPM (which I have now).
The C.A.T. was the best believe it or not of the 3.

Roll of the dice no matter what you buy.
Remember the good old days of being able to buy a Nitrided crank from GM for 5-600.

Last edited by cv67; Feb 15, 2012 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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Thanks for all the responses guys! They really helped out. Sorry it took so long to write back.
But yeah I'm going to go ahead and get that kit, and I will for sure have the machinist check all of the parts for me!
I'm doing a turbo build, hoping for 600-700hp when it's all done, but I'll be happy with less too. I don't plan on revving it too high, I wouldn't say past 6500. thanks again!
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