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Hey guys,
I was trying to remove the TPI intake on my 88 and the torx bolt on the intake on the driverside next to the fire wall busted one of the tangs on the bolt, after penetration oil was allowed to set. It is a T-40. I tried 3 different T-40's and all just spin inside the torx head. All other torx head bolts came loose. Location is bad for vice grips. Should I heat the bolt with a propane torch and drive a T-50 into to get it out or is there another option?
Hey guys,
I was trying to remove the TPI intake on my 88 and the torx bolt on the intake on the driverside next to the fire wall busted one of the tangs on the bolt, after penetration oil was allowed to set. It is a T-40. I tried 3 different T-40's and all just spin inside the torx head. All other torx head bolts came loose. Location is bad for vice grips. Should I heat the bolt with a propane torch and drive a T-50 into to get it out or is there another option?
Heat or even ice only on the bolt can help create a temperature differential between the bolt and intake. Dry ice is even better. If the bolt expands or shrinks (if you use ice)faster than the intake it might break the rust bond that's holding it together and make it easier to get out. If you use the larger torx bit you might try lightly hitting the torx driver handle as you try backing it out (acts kind of like an impact driver).
Either way, ice-heat or pounding, I'm not pleased with the way my top end enging rebuild is going. Thanks for you help, If I have to buy a small grinder, that dang bolt is coming out and all head torx bolts are history. I'll let the Cylinder Head rebuild guys deal with a sawed off stud.
cut the head off, thin cold chisel, remove the runner, unscrew the stud, if you
re careful and cut into the head in the correct direction
'righty tighty, lefty loosy", you may get lucky and loosen the bolt. I replaced mine with allens.
Oldalsakaman you sure get around. Good option if the T-50/pounding doesn't work. The Heads are going to be rebuilt. I'm just trying to take them off. I'll leave removing the torx stud up to the rebuild guys. I'm sure I'll end up paying for it anyway. At least I want have to do it.
if it gets down to it , you can cut that runner mounting hole with the same cold chisel, then either get another runner ' they're cheap' or weld that one, if you're thinking bout going to aftermarket runners anyhow, nows a good time.
I'll try your way first before I start poundind a T-50 into a T-40 socket head. If all else fails I'll get sore arms pounding the torx head off with a chisel. Perfect way to spead a day of paid vaction.
Motorcycle cases were all assembled with phillips screws many yrs back...and everyone of them stripped when we tried to disassemble...
the trick is to use the chisle and cut a notch in the torx head. Maybe even 2...like a flat blade screw driver were to be used. Then get a good angle on the chisle or a punch and tap it into the notch and turn the screw that way from the side by tapping it around.. You have to find a good angle to hit so its unscrewing and not cutting...but it works.
Thanks for all the solutions. The reamed out torx bolt is on the intake driverside end flange at the whindsheild wiper motor. I'll try what I can before I chisel. If I make a big mistake with the chisel and crack the intake it's weakest point, a corner, it will cost me a new $600 intake which will result in another $500 for big tube runners. No more used parts for me.
Try pounding in a #50 with an extension and mallet.
This.
Then do your self a favor and dump the LTR tpi and get something that resembles the lt1 intake it's a far superior design anyone that says otherwise is a liar.
Then do your self a favor and dump the LTR tpi and get something that resembles the lt1 intake it's a far superior design anyone that says otherwise is a liar.
Can you use a dremel to cut a "slot" in the bolt and use a regular screwdriver to remove it? That has worked for me on smaller bolts.
Dan
This method has worked magic for me as well. If you have an impact driver it works even better - the kind you put a bit in, then strike with a hammer, when you strike it also turns just a tiny bit but the downward force really keeps it from stripping out the slot you dremeled.
I actually have this one from HarborFreight. The driver itself works great and I've used it quite a bit on brake rotors that have phillips head screws securing them to the hub. The bits themselves are somewhat cheap, I've chipped them, but I also worked them hard. Definetly got my moneys worth.
This worked for me on a cylinder head. I think it was a Saturn, can't remember.
Other option, if you have the capability, is to weld something to the bolt head. I've welded a nut to a stripped head before. The heat you put into it also really frees it up too. Obviously, if the engine is opened up you dont want to do this as you might gets sparks and spatter in bad places!
Here's the update and it's not good. Used my dremal to cut across the bolt. heated the bolt up with a propane torch and proceded to hit it with a large cold chisel on the side of the bolt that should have started to turn it loose. No go. Now my Dremal is burned up. Headed to Lowes to buy a new one and a couple of metal cutting blades. This is the bolt from Hell.
dude , seriously, cut the head off, take the runner off, un screw the leftover stud, even if you cut a bit on the runner, it wont hurt anything you can use a washer on the new bolt