I was listening, I just couldn't get the builder to move, and was trying to figure out a way forward.

however, after spending the afternoon trying to get a tuner to dynotune my ride.... and no one wanted to with boost and cast pistons..

I called the builder and put my foot down!

so, I have gotten him to agree to pull the motor and replace the pistons with forged and put in a new cam.

Likely I will have to pay for the parts, and he will supply the labor.
Not exactly fair, but I need to move forward and this seems the only way.

SO, the question is, what parts? I will still have a cast crank and rods, 202 valves in the stock 113 heads, edelbrock highflow intake and base, p600b super charger

what pistons/compression and what cam should i use?
price is a consideration but i do want to make pretty stout power at 5k rpms and below.

 

<sigh> Same routine as similar threads...
- Budget?
- Planned usage?
- Define "stout". 400hp? 500hp? 600hp?
- Planned level of boost?

Above 500hp I'd move away from the cast crank and rods.

FWIW...I'd also put money into better heads.

 

It's not just the pistons that should be forged. Now go get the crank.

 

I dont have the budget for better heads or forged rods and crank
I hope to come in under a grand for pistons and cam.
and 500-550 hp is my aim

 

It takes $$$ to go fast and have things last. Do it right or scale down to 400 hp and leave the blower off until you can go all out, otherwise, you will be throwing good money after bad. My .02.

 

383Vett has a good point weve all been there. And done it anyway lol.

You already got the blower on there put together and running?

Noone will touch it even with a few lbs of boost? Gotta be someone

You got what you got. If you tear it down leaving the stock crank/rods dicey. Might run for a long time may be sweeping up parts.
Remember youll probably have to balance it too. Gaskets fluids etc it will add up. See your concern on your end too.

At this point have the mechanic help with a tuner....call it even.

Then piece together a stout shortblock over time yourself then put some real boost to it!!

 

Super charger is not on, its sitting in a box :P
I dont want to be stupid (er) i got taken pretty good.
I thought that rpm was the main killer with cast crank and rods, and i did not think 8lbs of boost would have really killed it.

I guess i need to take a calm look at my options, I jsut want t ogo have fun, tired of this nightmare.

 

Consider the current engine a mulligan and exchange the labor for a different pulley and what it'll cost to get someone to tune it with 4-6 pounds of boost. You do have the rest of the parts? Fuel pump, injectors?

In the late 80s / early 90s there were a couple companies that used to boost otherwise stock L98s (including the stock cam) to the tune of ~425hp. Carroll Supercharging comes to mind. Some info that may help... LINKY

After the above, start the planning & budgeting cycle for a better short-block, cam, and heads.

 

Ok, I am not stupid, just don't want to face facts. soooo, the motor stays as is.
I buy a short block, and heads and cam as i get the money, store them untill i have all the parts, then swap them out and sell my current motor.

I will be tie and money behind, way behind, but i want what i want, and there seems to be only one way to get it and be reliable. heck, i may even sell the whole car and get one with a stick.

any opinions on this short block?
http://www.racingjunk.com/Street/163...lock-Sale.html

 

Other than the fact it's a 2-piece rear main seal and your car uses a 1-piece rear main seal?

 

for some reason i was thinking that is the one that was available both ways.

 

Wiseco Forged is he best bet dollar wise

 

LOL when i decided to have a mid life crisis i shoulda spent the money on prostitutes

 

When I was looking at forged pistons, I considered the following:

Probe 12334
Icon 717

I ended up with the Icons (due to availability).

 

......... The supercharger kit you have was intended to be installed on a stock , tuned port motor ..... the forged components being recommended are for longevity insurance ... but even the best built engines will puke every now and then for no apparent reason ... welcome to the wonderful world of performance ...........................

 

Cheap, Fast, Durable=Pick Two

 

at the moment I am into this project for 6 grand, without the blower. I was certainly not trying to cheap out. I may have underestimated the cost of some things, but mostly, i flat got screwed.

 

Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

 

I am well aware that speed costs money.
a stock shortblock runs about 1500-2000, and mine isnt much better then stock.
the cam i have is one step above stock
I have 202 and 160 valves but with the current cam, I am probably losing power cus the valves are to big. Yes, I have a bunch of new parts, but parts that are not suited to what i want to do.. so, i didnt really get much value for my $5300

For 6 grand I could have had a longblock with full forged rotating assembly and dart heads. and it would be fully ready to accept the boost, probably more then the 8 lbs i was planning to run.
http://www.tristarengines.com/catalo...ttm-heads.html (though I dont know if it would fit my car, one of the reasons i went with a rebuild instead of a crate)
I got hosed, I trusted a guy who said he could give me near 400 horse for 5 grand, and 600 horse on boost. I believed he could deliver on it, because i knew i could get near that for the same price on a crate motor.
The last time i worked on a car was in 93 or 94, I had never heard of hyperutectic pistons, only thing i knew about was cast or forged. he said he selected the right pistons, and i believed him.

It is very difficult to face the fact that i got screwed and basically need to start over, and i do appreciate a lot of the well intentioned advice.
I am not stupid, i was ignorant, and a little gullible.

so the question is....
is there a safe level of boost i can run with a cast rotating assembly, if so what is it.
will alcohol injection take part of the danger out?
I cant afford to start over, some of you may be rich, but im not, this was a huge layout for me, and it will be years before i can shell out another 6-8k on a TOY car.
I have maybe 1k left in the budget that was going to go for the gaseous intercooler injectors and pump, and was hoping to come up with another grand over the next several months to finish it off and get it tuned.
If i cant figure something out I am stuck with 250 horse and a supercharger in a box after shelling out 6.5k, I am SO not happy, bought the car to brighten my life after a ****** divorce, got screwed over and now I am being quoted one liners... thanks thats helpfull!
anymore helpfull sayings? a stitch in time saves nine, would also be applicable in this situation.

 

You could always put the supercharger on and see what happens, especially if you are thinking you need to start over with an engine made for boost. Who knows if you don't push it to the limit, your current engine may last for quite a while. That is if you can find someone to tune the new combination. Weren't you saying in another thread that noone wanted to tune it with hyper pistons?

Oh, one more question. Is your supercharger a kit that is actually made for a C4 Vette?