Halfshaft U joint replacement procedure
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 8
From: Sumter South Carolina
There is a detailed write up somewhere on here. Basically when I did mine I removed the bolt for the lower control arm and the spring and then when I removed the straps on both half shafts and then pulled it out by wedgin a screw driver and pulling it out from the differential side. And then the other side will release. Be gental, didn't take too much prying. Then just reverse that once the new ujoints are in. As for pressing them in I used my vice and a big socket and it was pretty simple to press fit it in and out.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 21,094
Likes: 282
From: Phila., PA burbs
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,564
Likes: 110
From: Austin Texas
Wow...did he ever go about that the hard way!
All that needs to be removed is the spring bolt and the bolt holding the camber rod to the knuckle on the bottom...that's what it tells you in the service manual.
Then you won't screw up the alignment...
All that needs to be removed is the spring bolt and the bolt holding the camber rod to the knuckle on the bottom...that's what it tells you in the service manual.
Then you won't screw up the alignment...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,269
Likes: 142
From: Ottawa Ontario
One thing I'll add is to remove the outer (hub/spindle end) u-joint straps and separate that end before the inner as the u-joint could be frozen to the spindle & it's near impossible to get the leverage to get it unstuck while the knuckle is hanging loose. With the half shaft still connected at the diff, you can whack the knuckle with a mallet to pop the u-joint off the spindle.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 8
http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...=#.Un6b8_lWw40
Rock auto has anti galvanic coated Ujoint for aluminum halfshaft,they list it as 231c
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392
Rock auto has anti galvanic coated Ujoint for aluminum halfshaft,they list it as 231c
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,2392
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
Likes: 2,741
If you use the posters 1st link in #10 which is wrong but enter the 5-1350X the newest Spicer in the "search block" top left it will reference the 331, the 231 is the same joint less the zerk and the C = coated.
If they offer you a 331 that would be with the zerk. Your decision!
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 9, 2013 at 04:01 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
If you're wanting Moog you have two choices 231 which does NOT have the anti-galvanic coating and a 231C which does. Neither of those should have zerks. Buy local and just let the "parts guy" do the work. If you mention you'd like a 1350 series Spicer most could change that number. Is the galvanic coating critical? I'd think NOT if it changes the price or availability dramatically. I would avoid an Internet purchase! I would certainly avoid "RockAuto.
If you use the posters 1st link in #10 which is wrong but enter the 5-1350X the newest Spicer in the "search block" top left it will reference the 331, the 231 is the same joint less the zerk and the C = coated.
If they offer you a 331 that would be with the zerk. Your decision!
If you use the posters 1st link in #10 which is wrong but enter the 5-1350X the newest Spicer in the "search block" top left it will reference the 331, the 231 is the same joint less the zerk and the C = coated.
If they offer you a 331 that would be with the zerk. Your decision!
I know this is an old thread, but there is nothing at all wrong with Rock Auto. Often times it has parts listed, often OEM, that are no longer available at local sources.
