Help!!! Right Front Brake Dragging
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 16,478
Likes: 24
From: USA. Northern Virginia
WOW!
You sir have a new profession! I don’t know of any aftermarket vendors that would go to those lengths to diagnose and properly repair a unit.
-If and when mine ever fails….I know who to send it to!
-Thanks, great research, write up and images.
You sir have a new profession! I don’t know of any aftermarket vendors that would go to those lengths to diagnose and properly repair a unit.
-If and when mine ever fails….I know who to send it to!
-Thanks, great research, write up and images.
Last edited by 69mako; Nov 14, 2013 at 08:50 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: Hidden Valley Lake California
when I got the vette it was pulling to the right, I traced the problem to the feed from the abs modulater, it was not allowing enough fluid to the left front brake and also not allowing it to return (broken spring), I suspected the master was bypassing also but the car had a pretty stiff pedal, well the stiff pedal was from the abs not allowing flow, once I got that fixed guess what, the master is bypassing, got one on order, they dis continued the rebuild kit for it, probably because a new master is not much more.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: Hidden Valley Lake California
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
Thanks again for sharing your information with us,, I think this one should be a sticky..
By the way; take a look at this site for a comparable spring..
http://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=phpgca
By the way; take a look at this site for a comparable spring..
http://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=phpgca
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 401
Likes: 41
From: Parrish FL
Had a similar thing happen on one of my vettes. It would pull to the right when I hit the brakes. I replaced everything on the right wheel and it didn't change anything. Then I looked at the left wheel and the caliper was leaking fluid onto the rotor lubricating it. So it wasn't the right side pulling, it was the left side not braking at all. Similar problem but totally different cause.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 317
Likes: 4
From: Hagerstown Md
My left front was dragging. Replaced the caliper, still dragging. Traced it back to the pump which wasn't releasing pressure, replaced pump and that fixed it. Now I can try to fix my old pump, thanks for the write up.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: Hidden Valley Lake California
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Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
Before I swap this used ABS unit for the one in my '87, I'd like to disassemble and inspect it. First thing I notice is the cap covering the socket head screw that holds the unit together. I've tried using small screwdrivers and even picks and it doesn't budge. Does the cap pop off easily or do I drill a hole or two to get leverage to pop the cap off? I want to get from this...
...to this...
...to this...
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: Hidden Valley Lake California
Before I swap this used ABS unit for the one in my '87, I'd like to disassemble and inspect it. First thing I notice is the cap covering the socket head screw that holds the unit together. I've tried using small screwdrivers and even picks and it doesn't budge. Does the cap pop off easily or do I drill a hole or two to get leverage to pop the cap off? I want to get from this...
...to this...
...to this...
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: Hidden Valley Lake California
Before I swap this used ABS unit for the one in my '87, I'd like to disassemble and inspect it. First thing I notice is the cap covering the socket head screw that holds the unit together. I've tried using small screwdrivers and even picks and it doesn't budge. Does the cap pop off easily or do I drill a hole or two to get leverage to pop the cap off? I want to get from this...
...to this...
...to this...
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
Gemsvette,
Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to open those passages and clean the screens. I think I'll try the little 3/8th impact first.
Years ago the Bosch ABS unit in my '79 BMW started acting up and when I asked the parts guy at the dealership about having it rebuilt, he said it couldn't be done and offered to order me a new one for $2,500. I chose the T-fitting bypass route for $33 instead. Bosch doesn't seem to want these units repaired but I can't bring myself to pay their price. I'm stoked to break into this unit and maybe have the brakes work like they were designed.
I removed the two hex socket screws on the top of mine. They are just setscrews with tapered points (like the ends of the lines) but don't have passages like a bleeder screw. They are at the high point of the front and rear circuits so hopefully they'll help me bleed the ABS unit of any trapped air.
Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to open those passages and clean the screens. I think I'll try the little 3/8th impact first.
Years ago the Bosch ABS unit in my '79 BMW started acting up and when I asked the parts guy at the dealership about having it rebuilt, he said it couldn't be done and offered to order me a new one for $2,500. I chose the T-fitting bypass route for $33 instead. Bosch doesn't seem to want these units repaired but I can't bring myself to pay their price. I'm stoked to break into this unit and maybe have the brakes work like they were designed.
I removed the two hex socket screws on the top of mine. They are just setscrews with tapered points (like the ends of the lines) but don't have passages like a bleeder screw. They are at the high point of the front and rear circuits so hopefully they'll help me bleed the ABS unit of any trapped air.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: Hidden Valley Lake California
Gemsvette,
Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to open those passages and clean the screens. I think I'll try the little 3/8th impact first.
Years ago the Bosch ABS unit in my '79 BMW started acting up and when I asked the parts guy at the dealership about having it rebuilt, he said it couldn't be done and offered to order me a new one for $2,500. I chose the T-fitting bypass route for $33 instead. Bosch doesn't seem to want these units repaired but I can't bring myself to pay their price. I'm stoked to break into this unit and maybe have the brakes work like they were designed.
I removed the two hex socket screws on the top of mine. They are just setscrews with tapered points (like the ends of the lines) but don't have passages like a bleeder screw. They are at the high point of the front and rear circuits so hopefully they'll help me bleed the ABS unit of any trapped air.
Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to open those passages and clean the screens. I think I'll try the little 3/8th impact first.
Years ago the Bosch ABS unit in my '79 BMW started acting up and when I asked the parts guy at the dealership about having it rebuilt, he said it couldn't be done and offered to order me a new one for $2,500. I chose the T-fitting bypass route for $33 instead. Bosch doesn't seem to want these units repaired but I can't bring myself to pay their price. I'm stoked to break into this unit and maybe have the brakes work like they were designed.
I removed the two hex socket screws on the top of mine. They are just setscrews with tapered points (like the ends of the lines) but don't have passages like a bleeder screw. They are at the high point of the front and rear circuits so hopefully they'll help me bleed the ABS unit of any trapped air.
