In an effort to save a few bucks, gain self gratification, and make sure it's done right I am attempting to do a few things.

AFPR
MAT Relocate
Clean/flow test injectors
Replace EGR

-inside off plenum and runners are covered with carbon. Should I clean them out before re-install? How wash tank?

-The screws holding the fuel pressure gauge are funky looking. They are torx head with a little post in the middle of them. Special tool needed? drill them out?

-When I lift the fuel rail will the injectors come right out of the manifold?

-I didn't depressurize the fuel system (pull fuse and run) so how much trouble will I be in when I disconect the fuel lines (gas cap is off).

Thanks,

Chuck

 

I would crack the fuel lines at the fittings in the front of the rails and put a rag under it before you remove the regulator. or I guess you could push down on the shrader valve (looks like a tire air stem) with a nail and have a rag around that. either way you will have a little fuel in there.

Get a torx bit, and drill a hole in the center to clear these screws. My AFPR came with this tool.

I would clean the runners, as for what kind of cleaner is hard to say. I used MEK, that hardly did anything. I have been using 'easy off' latly (exhuast ports on heads), but that leaves a nasty stain on aluminum which I have to polish out after I am done.

I made a tool, which is a tight wound spring, and kind of stiff. I took some course steel wool pads and wound them around the spring, put the spring in a drill and ran the pads through my runners, and base manifold. this took a bit of work, but removed all the crud, and even smoothed out some spots. I took the spring from one of those tools you use that has a mini claw in the end, to pick up things that fall in places you cant reach, and cut the claw off it.

When you go to lift the fuel rails, I like to spray WD-40 in the injector bungs just to lube it up a little, lets the O ring slide up without getting snagged on things.


[Modified by bill mcdonald, 3:22 PM 5/14/2002]

 

You'll have to disconnect the fuel lines to lift the fuel rail. I couldn't get the fuel to stop flowing so I slipped some vacuum hose over each line and clamped it till I was ready to reattach to the fuel rail. I like to use paper towls to catch the gasoline; you can toss em in the barbeque and burn em.

If you have access to a hot wash tank it would be great; hate to put dirty stuff back on. I also use carb cleaner and a rubber hose to access the runners, but a PITA.

You can either drill out a Torx bit or grind off those nubs; I don't know if you can get the special Torx bit, maybe at a NAPA store.

You will likely have to rock the fuel rail a little to get it out; new O-rings come with a FelPro top end gasket set. You can use a little motor oil on them to later facilitate installation. If you send the injector set to Rich at Cruzin Performance for reconditioning they'll come back with new O-rings; he'll even replace any missing clips if you leave them on the injectors. He charges $80 for the set plus another $10 for the cold start injector; in shop time is 48hrs.

Now would be a good time to get an Accel FP gauge from Jeg's. It mounts permanently onto the Schraeder valve.

You will need a "good" 10mm open/closed end wrench to access the two bolts holding the EGR to the intake base. Even with runners and fuel rail removed one of them is a PITA to access otherwise.

A brass plug with some thread sealer will serve to block off the MAT hole in the plenum.

And be very careful with those hard plastic vacuum lines as they can get brittle with time and heat cycling.

Use a pair of plyers to carefully work the injector harness off the mounting studs; open up the holes a little to facilitate installation and avoid breaking them on the next removal.

 

Chuck,
I would recomend you pick up a security torx bit set from your local autozone. They are designed spacifically for those screw styles on your fpr. You will find a use for them in the future and they are only about $6 for the set. as for the intake plenum I ended up using throttle body injector cleaner to clean out the insides. They did stain up the aluminum a bit but I planned to paint them anyhow. Your injectors will come out with some effort pulled straight up on the rails (after you have removed everything in the way of course) I found it much easier to femove the runners as well. Are ya sending them to Rich at cruzin performance? He does great work IMHO.

Good luck with it and take your time. Its very gratifying to do things yourself. :cheers: :cheers:

 

The torx bit you are looking for is called a torx security bit. They are a little bit hard to find. Check OSH or Sears

 

NAPA has the security Torx bit with lifetime warranty #33310 <$3.00.

I soaked the plenum, runners and manifold in Purple Power Cleaner overnight then scrubed the openings with a nylon tire brush. Do the extra work to remove the manifold because it will have the most carbon build-up. Also a good time to replace the EGR valve. Clean the throttle body and IAC while your at it. Good luck.


[Modified by Bluevette85, 9:58 PM 5/14/2002]


[Modified by Bluevette85, 10:11 PM 5/14/2002]

 

Awesome replies fellas. I have the plenum off to do a couple of things. I think cleaning out the insides of the runners and plenum will be a PITA.

AFPR
Sending injectors to cruzin performance
MAT relocation kit
New egr valve
Clean TB, runners and plenum

Chuck

 

These little screws are called Tamper Proof Torx Bolts. There most certainly are special sockets for them, and they cost about $30 a peice.

 

If you let the car sit for a day or so it should depressurize itself somewhat. Just be careful and clean up as much fuel as you can.

 

When I had mine apart last summer I Clamped the plenum, runners, and base to a table outside. Then I took out my power washer and blasted em clean. It did a fairly decent job. And was easy. Are you doing any porting work while they are off? I ported mine and swear I can feel the difference in upper RPM power.