Okay, gonna pull the heads today ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=300914 )

I'm figuring now would be a good time to do water pump and timing chain/gears.

Any other things I should do while I've got it apart? I don't have a huge budget to work with, but I figured those are things I should go ahead and do right now.

 

I was just reading that post, sorry for the bad luck.

In addition to the usual head referbish, water pump, timing gears, etc. I would send the injectors to Rich at Cruzin Performance (link on my site) for reconditioning. He charges $80/set and has 48hr shop time. If you're interested in flow matching he sends the dynamic flow numbers via e-mail and you can decide if you want him to swap any out for a better match.

You might want to have the intake parts hot sprayed also to remove grime and carbon build up.

Use some TB cleaner on the TB and the IAC & it's bore.

It would be a great time to turn those brown valve covers to silver again. Once the heads are in the shop you'll have time to degreas and shoot a copla coats onto them.

It's a good idea to use a rethread set on the intake bolts to remove old sealant so you can get a good torque reading.

Good luck with the project.

 

Hope you can help me with a few questions:

1. Can you tell me what wrench/tool you're using to loosen the exhaust manifold bolts near the fire-wall on the pass. side? Its the two bolts that hold the EGR piping, there is no space at all.

2. Is it possible to loosen the bottom three bolts that connect the exhaust mainfold to the pipe by hand, as oppose to air tools? I have a hard time loosen those bolts with hand tool, even with the 14" breaker bar, I am afraid that I might break the stud. 3. are the nuts metric or standard. So far, a 15 mm socket fit, and I think a 9/16 fit in there too. Just don't know which one is the correct to use.

Thanks,

 

Set of RR maybe?

perhaps a new intake manifold then its ready for a SR.

 

I have a '92, but definatly understand the tightness around the exhaust manifold. I used a couple extenders, and U joints, and was eventualy able to get them off (it was tricky though!!) You might want to take off the wheel wells if you havent already.. that made it much easier to get in.

As for the connection of the manifold to the exhaust pipes- if you havent already, get some good penetrating oil. I couldnt get it to budge, but put pentrating oil on it every 12 hours for a few days.. then they came off pretty easily. Hope that helps!!

-Mark

 

Thanks Mark,

I already spayed a lot of penetrating oil on it. I guess it not enough yet:(. Kept hearing everyone said its easy to take those bolts out and I am having a hard time loosen it:(
Car has been down for more than 8 months alreay:(.

 

VQT88Vette, liberal use of Liquid Wrench is the ticket.

Also use it on the Torx bolts holding the EGR pipe to the exhaust tube. I had to insert a Torx bit on an extension and rap the extension copla times with a small ballpeen to crack them lose. I didn't want to strip out those Torx heads. On reassembly I used some anti-seize on these bolts.

On the three Y-pipe bolts I used a 1/2"x18" breaker bar; you could just slip a piece of pipe over it to get them started if necessary. Also a few raps with a hammer on the breaker bar handle will help crack any rust. I had to stop several times to reapply Liquid Wrench and run the nuts back up a little to assure that I didn't break any of them. I don't remember what size, but use the smallest socket that fits.

The exhaust manifold flange bolts came right out with no problem, thanks to Al heads. A 3/8" drive is likely enough on these; a swivel may be helpful.

On the passenger side you can realy make life much easier by removing the inner fender access panel. This will allow you easier access to the hose clamp that holds the AIR down pipe to the exhaust manifold Y-pipe flange.

BTW, if this helps we can talk later about a Hooter Girls on the hood deal... :D


[Modified by 65Z01, 2:50 PM 5/15/2002]

 

65Z01 Thank you so much for replying,

I already took off the intake manifold, the top part of the EGR pipe (Torx bolts), the head covers off.
I'll try the 1/2-18" breaker bar again with plenty of penetrating oil on the y-pipe bolts.
Just got home and look at the possibility of taking the pass. wheel wells out. The two bolts that holding the EGR pipe I am refering to are the one connected at the side of the exhaust manifold. It is block by the fire-wall/A/C condensor housing :confused: . It is not block by the wheel well. I guess that a "S" shape key might work for this tight space. There is no way a u-joint/extension will fit in there. I don't even think the ratchet and socket will fit in that tight space. Is there a way to take the A/C housing off?
I guess when I really start working on taking the wheel well off I'll see the way to fit tools in there.

 

I would do a valve job for sure.

Good idea on the timing chain.

Don't forget the lightning arrester assembly for the ride home from BG

:troll

 

:cheers: Craig

Hope you get it together in time for BG

Lookin forward to seeing you there

 

:lol: :lol:

I was quote ~$150 for a valve job, ~$200 for the 3 angle valve, deck the head will be more charge. Is that price for both heads, or just one?

 

Thats probably the quote for both heads. My "competition" valve job ran $160 or so for both heads.

-Mark

P.S. Let me know when you want some help with the car.. Id be happy to come help ya out! :)

 

I got that clamp off with a socket, one click at a time. I had a Mr.Goodwrench put the clamp back on as I couldn't get it. He pulled the panel in the wheel well to get at it.