94 6spd...mild cam, 1.6 rr's, long tubes, no cats, glass pack mufflers, tune,4.11 gears, SLP CLAW air intake.. 337rwhp

I am currently not excited how the air intake takes in engine capartment air. I was wondering if anyone thinks the stock air assembly with it cut like everyone does would be better?

 

You might try it, but I bet you'll see NO gain in HP. The Claw is a good flowing setup, so is a cut lid. Heck, the stock unit is pretty good.

 

cut open lid with a clean K&N works as well as any of the $350 cold air junk systems that are grear at robbing the customer and not giving the engine any more air.

Cut the top out for the stock box, K&N...very very lt oil mist, go for it.

 

I was thinking of cuting the bottom out, the are the the air goes to the radiator

 

your whp number is fantastic. I'm looking at doing basically exactly what you have. So i'd be thrilled with similar numbers on my vette. Your essentially at nearly 400 hp at the crank right. Have you considered doing any head work or port and polish?

 

That's what I did for my claw. The running temps are a consistent 15-20 degrees cooler. I also noticed a bit more on the top end.

Only negative being the filters will pick up a substantial amout of road grime. They will have to be cleaned more often.

 

I probably wont do any porting or head work. I don't race and have no wants to. I had the motor rebuild with the intends to drive it another 200k miles, but I wanted a cam for the lope so with the cam I need the RR's near rods, springs ect so that why I have the jump in HP which I don't mind ! Now I dont have to worry about those stock honda accords! lol

I would like to maybe keep the claw but cut the shroud under the air filters and maybe build a clear plexxy glas box only grabbing cooler air.

 

The "Claw" is just a blingy peice of, ah..."Kit". It does absolutely nothing but suck in more under hood hot air. But, it does look kinda cool doing it.
Here’s something better that actually works and doesn’t cost anything but your time.
Use your old stock air filter housing.
Mark, and cut out the area of the filter element (don not include the rubber gasket) on the bottom side of the filter housing.
Install the empty housing using the hold down pins for proper alignment.
Trace the opening onto the radiator shroud. Use a grey sharpie marker.
Here’s the hard part.
Remove the entire shroud. It will come out without removing the A/C lines.
Cut out the traced opening in the shroud. Smooth the edges.
Replace the shroud.
Install the air filter housing bottom.
Seal the opening in the air filter cover. You can use the piece of shroud for this. Pop rivets and RTV works. Cut to suit, paint to match.
Install filter and cover.
Better still is using the front license plate opening for “Ram Air”. If, you live in a state where a front license isn’t required. But it also requires removing the bumper cover, making an opening in the foam or egg crate bumper and cutting an opening in the front bulk head.

Good luck.

 

Isn't sucking in more air kinda the point? Yes it's under hood air and it's warm, but it also is not sucking up road grime and water.

 

I've never found water to be an issue. I had your exact same concern when I first did this mod. So I drove it in a really heavy rain for about twenty miles. Checked the filter when I got home and it wasn’t even damp. I believe it's the angle the air comes in. The filter is not "in line" with air flow like the A/C condenser or radiator. Yes, you do need to keep an eye on the filter in terms of dirt, leafs, etc. I installed window screen over the bottom opening. No issues with overheating here in Florida. When I first got my "92 I found a plastic Home Deport bag, and about two hands full of leafs at the top of the A/C condenser. Some kind of screen is a good investment. Also, when I changed to the "Stage II" ram air set up water has never been an issue. And, its a straight flow now. So.........there ya have it.