When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’ve changed the opti on my 93 coupe too many times to count. I lost count, but at least 5 times. The past 4-5 times I drove the car, it was hard to crank cold. Progressively getting harder and harder. The last few times it would crank after a shot of either down the throttle body, but not any more. During these time it ran fine after it ran a little and warmed up.
The last go ‘round I put a new AC Delco distributor, MSD cap and rotor w/ the venting option. Also a new MSD blaster coil. I plan to first check all plug wires. Go back to the stock coil. Look for the +5 control voltage on the white wire. If none of this helps, I’m thinking rotor button. Maybe it came loose. Any thoughts?
I thought I'd get at least 100 miles this time.What a poor design!
Back when I got paid to turn wrenches....any time a gmc product had a no start I changed the control module. Use to be in the dist. but yours is on the head with the coil. Checked the harness to the opti?
I've also had the computers rebuilt and now keep a spare. More answers will follow I'm sure.
Hard to crank and hard to start are two different things. Is the car hard to start or crank? Cranking is just turning the engine over with the starter, is this ok?
It is is trying to start after shooting ether down the TB, then you might want to check fuel pressure.
FYI, Ether is really bad for your engine, use at your own risk.
Also, have you checked spark at the plugs during cranking?
The engine spins over, but no ignition. New Fuel pump very recently. I did buy a fuel press, guage a while back, I can check again.
I hear what you're saying Nathan. Had the same thought. It will run for a while after changing the opti. Then quit. Question is. If not the opti. What is it?
The engine spins over, but no ignition. New Fuel pump very recently. I did buy a fuel press, guage a while back, I can check again.
I hear what you're saying Nathan. Had the same thought. It will run for a while after changing the opti. Then quit. Question is. If not the opti. What is it?
It could be a LOT of things. Cars are just a bit complex but they are not rockets.
I would verify that fuel pressure, make sure it is not leaking down after you shut off the key.
Get a cheap 5 dollar spark tester at Harbor Freight. When the car is hard to start like this, see if you have spark.
It could be a LOT of things. Cars are just a bit complex but they are not rockets.
I would verify that fuel pressure, make sure it is not leaking down after you shut off the key.
Get a cheap 5 dollar spark tester at Harbor Freight. When the car is hard to start like this, see if you have spark.
Do you have a FSM?
Good suggestion! I picked up one of those little testers a while back, and still have it. (in the past a screwdriver stuck in the plugwire, held about 1/8" away from the block, or other ground has worked) Tried out my new tester, not only did I get fire, it cranked up! (ran) Drove it around some. Hard start after stopping to buy fuel. Took 3 tries, Now it's doing fine. Can't argue w/ success, but I'm not likely out of the woods yet. I did order a new opti harness from EFI. Coil and connecting plugs to coil are suspect. No codes.
In the past, when the opti went out. Code 36, one day it spins over, but never starts. Other times, same thing with no codes.
I think I'll drive it around some. Replace the harness when it comes in, maybe go back to the stock coil.
Sounds like a flaky ignition control module to me, I have seen them have temperature related problems, which could explain your seemingly completely erratic results.
Trouble is there isn't a good way to test that. Sure the parts stores will tell you they can test it, but if it's an intermittent problem, their test will likely show good even if the unit is faulty.
When I had one fail I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow one to test with. Once I verified it solved my problem, I bought it from the guy. The module on mine is actually off of a 96 F-body I believe.
From: Life is just one big track event. Everything before and after is prep and warm-up and cool-down laps
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '12
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Sounds like a flaky ignition control module to me, I have seen them have temperature related problems, which could explain your seemingly completely erratic results.
Trouble is there isn't a good way to test that. Sure the parts stores will tell you they can test it, but if it's an intermittent problem, their test will likely show good even if the unit is faulty.
When I had one fail I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow one to test with. Once I verified it solved my problem, I bought it from the guy. The module on mine is actually off of a 96 F-body I believe.
My 92 would stop running everytime it got hot on the road course. I mean frustrating when you can only run 10 or 15 min.
Flat tow anytime ther was a red flag.
One other thing to check - what wound up to really fix mine - is check the wiring from the opti to the ECM connector on the passenger side.
Sounds like a flaky ignition control module to me, I have seen them have temperature related problems, which could explain your seemingly completely erratic results.
Trouble is there isn't a good way to test that. Sure the parts stores will tell you they can test it, but if it's an intermittent problem, their test will likely show good even if the unit is faulty.
When I had one fail I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow one to test with. Once I verified it solved my problem, I bought it from the guy. The module on mine is actually off of a 96 F-body I believe.
I'm battling what I think is a ICM, right now. Trying to catch it in the act, very intermittent. When I do catch it I never have an assistant around to crank while I watch/do tests.
Only does it from cold/warm to hot starts. Only when it wants too, sometimes it is ok. It is mis-firing at idle, at above 190 or so. Will not restart hot/warm must cool down. Tries to but will not. I'm losing spark for sure but I want to run the test on 6E3-C4-5 of the FSM, to verify what I have, for sure.
Problem is the lack of assistant and intermittent nature. Then again I don't have to drive the car (snow on the ground).
I'm battling what I think is a ICM, right now. Trying to catch it in the act, very intermittent. When I do catch it I never have an assistant around to crank while I watch/do tests.
Only does it from cold/warm to hot starts. Only when it wants too, sometimes it is ok. It is mis-firing at idle, at above 190 or so. Will not restart hot/warm must cool down. Tries to but will not. I'm losing spark for sure but I want to run the test on 6E3-C4-5 of the FSM, to verify what I have, for sure.
Problem is the lack of assistant and intermittent nature. Then again I don't have to drive the car (snow on the ground).
If you have a FSM run thru this test.
I have a long jumper wire from the small wire on the starter. I turn the key on, then tap that wire to the positive post of the Alt. (12+dc) to engage the starter from under the hood.
In electronics we use "cool spray" in a can, will rapidly cool down anything. Perhaps I may try that on my ICM.
I have a long jumper wire from the small wire on the starter. I turn the key on, then tap that wire to the positive post of the Alt. (12+dc) to engage the starter from under the hood.
In electronics we use "cool spray" in a can, will rapidly cool down anything. Perhaps I may try that on my ICM.
Yeah.....I'm lazy, but I'll probably have to resort to that. So much easier with two people.
Cool in a can idea is a good one. I had that idea too, but I don't know where to find that stuff.