Rear Brake Caliper?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 15
From: Martinsburg WV
Rear Brake Caliper?
Im was doing my rear brakes yesterday and the right sides done but on the left I used a clamp to push the piston all the way back and cant get the caliper to fit over the rotor with the new pads. Any ideas?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
I had the same issue with my new slotted rotors ans ceramic pads, pushed it , just a bit more, and then gently tapped the pads over the rotor, after the pads were on the rotor, and I applied the braks once or twice they centered up and got parallel to the rotor and worked fine. Do you have a couple lug nuts on the rotor holding it from moving? and keeping it straight?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 15
From: Martinsburg WV
Also I noticed that the C4s caliper has a spot for a hex key-does it matter if I use a clamp? Ill have to put a few lug nuts on to hold the new rotor in place. Also should I keep the abutment bracket attached to the caliper and then slide the pads in place? Right now Ive got the rear pad in place and I can see that theres little slots on the end of the bracket that match up with the pads end. One more thing-is it the pad with the wear indicator that goes on the inside?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
wear indicator usually goes inside, if you have the hex for the caliper piston, if you dont , it will still work , while turning it , push a bit more, I usually put the abutment bracket on and then slide the caliper into it, makes it easier to center the pads, there are small clips that go one those slots for the pads to fit into, make sure they're there.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Did you try opening the bleeder screw as you tightened the C-clamp? Doing that will drain some of the fluid out of the caliper piston bore and that should allow the piston to move further into the bore.
I've also noticed that some pads have more material (thicker) than others and that could be a problem too.
I usually install the abutment bracket first simply because it's easy to get the caliper bolts installed with the bracket in place. Torquing the abutment bolts is a PITA if you don't have access to a lift. Use some Blue Loctite on the abutment bolt threads and on the caliper mounting bolts.
I've also noticed that some pads have more material (thicker) than others and that could be a problem too.
I usually install the abutment bracket first simply because it's easy to get the caliper bolts installed with the bracket in place. Torquing the abutment bolts is a PITA if you don't have access to a lift. Use some Blue Loctite on the abutment bolt threads and on the caliper mounting bolts.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 15
From: Martinsburg WV
I didnt get a chance to try loosening the bleeder screw cause my 10mm flare nut wrench actually broke in the process last night :/
I ordered a craftsman which I shouldve done in the first place but Im sure Ill get it taken care of next weekend. Thanks for all the input btw.
I ordered a craftsman which I shouldve done in the first place but Im sure Ill get it taken care of next weekend. Thanks for all the input btw.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
the fluid goes back thru the system, there is no check valve in the brake system that keeps fluid in the lines, most of the time when you depress the pistons back into the calipers, you'll see brake fluid overflowing the top of your master cylinder. loosening a bleeder just gives it a shorter route.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
People hate when I post this but......
before I take the caliper off, I use a screwdriver and pry those calipers open all the way....I don't own a c-clamp large enough to do brakes....
"jham! you can't do that, you'll damage the rotor!"
I'm having it turned anyway.....
"jham! you'll damage your pads!"
I'm throwing the old ones away......
Save yourself a step and pry the calipers open before you take them off. If you are putting on new rotors and have them handy, A brake pad replacement takes about 15 minutes per wheel....
before I take the caliper off, I use a screwdriver and pry those calipers open all the way....I don't own a c-clamp large enough to do brakes....
"jham! you can't do that, you'll damage the rotor!"
I'm having it turned anyway.....
"jham! you'll damage your pads!"
I'm throwing the old ones away......
Save yourself a step and pry the calipers open before you take them off. If you are putting on new rotors and have them handy, A brake pad replacement takes about 15 minutes per wheel....
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 15
From: Martinsburg WV
People hate when I post this but......
before I take the caliper off, I use a screwdriver and pry those calipers open all the way....I don't own a c-clamp large enough to do brakes....
"jham! you can't do that, you'll damage the rotor!"
I'm having it turned anyway.....
"jham! you'll damage your pads!"
I'm throwing the old ones away......
Save yourself a step and pry the calipers open before you take them off. If you are putting on new rotors and have them handy, A brake pad replacement takes about 15 minutes per wheel....
before I take the caliper off, I use a screwdriver and pry those calipers open all the way....I don't own a c-clamp large enough to do brakes....
"jham! you can't do that, you'll damage the rotor!"
I'm having it turned anyway.....
"jham! you'll damage your pads!"
I'm throwing the old ones away......
Save yourself a step and pry the calipers open before you take them off. If you are putting on new rotors and have them handy, A brake pad replacement takes about 15 minutes per wheel....
I already took the caliper off-Ive got new rotors and pads on also. Just have to wait for my flare nut wrench to come in(the one I had just broke the other night) so I can change the bleeder screw w/ my speed bleeder. Anyways i think I should be able to use my clamp to push the piston back a little more so both pads will fit over the rotor.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 9,272
Likes: 17
they make a 'pad spreader' tool that you dont really need, but the advantage is that it pushes the piston into the caliper with even pressure, and when the piston is seated in the caliper , its not slightly crooked, and the pads slide in easily. $20 at most places that sell tools. A poor mans version is to put one of your old pads across the piston and use it with your clamp to push the piston into the caliper
