please , please, please....

I may have to replace my waterpump, unfortunately...

how much stuff do I need to take apart?

 

Pull all of the accessories off of the front of the engine. The last thing left is you guessed it---the water pump....

 

Everything off the pass side

 

Once you are there....you might want to look at changing out the front timing chain cover gasket....and maybe looking at the chain itself.

apparently, my '84 is harder than yours.....but I took an afternoon to take it all apart and the next afternoon to replace everything.

 

so the ac compressor and bracketry has to come off?

 

When you say "come off", they only need to be loosened and moved to the side. Do not break the refrigerant hoses.

 

The bolts that hold the compressor bracket on are actually studs that also hold the water pump on
As noted the A/c bracket can be be pulled forward off the studs so as to remove them to release the pump

 

Youll recite every swear word in the book
Pay attention to how it comes apart!

If I didnt have Drs appts tomorrow Id say bring it over we could knock it out quick. Have a special can for leftover bolts

Or go the traditional route

Pay top $ to a shop to do it
Get it home to find out you have to do it over again and replace broken stuff.
Its fun

 

This is why you spend GOOD money on GOOD water pumps, because this is a no fun kinda chore...and you will not want to have to do it again...ever. Buy an upgraded water pump...at least store brand HD model, preferably a good name brand pump like edlebrock or some other quality piece.
Store brand stock pumps are $50 new...35 for their rebuilds ( Taiwanese). Rots uh ruck, Joe. Spend $100 and get a decnt one...high vol if nothing else.

The benefits of the task include but are not limited to:
back aches, skinned knuckles, angry family & friends.

Its not complicated, actually there are less than a doz bolts involved. They're just in hard places and there is no working room until parts start to come off.

TIPS...................

buy some 5/8 and 3/4" heater hose. You have to replace several very short pieces when the compressor is off. There is no access at any other time. Have a handful of new hose clamps. Have a new lower radiator hose. Know where there is a new tensioner....in case yours has seals coming apart or is loose.
Mark the rotation of the belt. It should run the same way later as it did before. Many people get them turned around and older belts break or come apart from being reversed.
PB spray for stuck nuts and bolts. Brake parts cleaner to spray off other crud areas. Silicone for the pump gaskets...

Its easy to get trash in the system while its apart. DO NOT fill with your expensive coolant the first time. Thats the kiss of death....Should you fill it with fresh coolant there WILL be a leak or trash in the block or hoses...everytime.
Start with straight water...run it for a day, if there are no leaks THEN drain the radiator thru the petcock and flush any trash or oil film out and then fill the empty rad with good coolant. As I tell you this I have to admit that I just got stung this way....2 gallons of dexcool @ $20 per...ruined because of oil scum that was washed into the block and circulated in the system after assembly. Never do that again...

Have a coat hanger to tie the a/c compressor up and out of the way.Same with the dryer. Try to avoid d/c the pressure lines..... but do NOT kink the a/c lines or attempt to fold them or bend them too far...just tie it up.
Get some orange spray cleaner or engine degreaser that can be hosed off. Do as much cleaning as possible while things are off the block. Take a pic of the air switching valve and they way they are mounted and plumbed. That gets a lot of folks confused when they reassemble.
Its not horrible...just time consuming and more awkward than most. many things with 2 or 3 bolts to remove. Use rags to fill the throttle body...its easier if you remove the duct and MAF so you have more working room.

I do not know, but I'd bet that this is anywhere from $350 to $500 labor at a shop.
Good luck....the first time is always the most difficult. Be glad that you are not changing compressors...there is a bolt that lives there that you do not want to know.....


OH YEAH>>>>>
flare nut wrench !
chances are that you will have to d/c the 2 steel fuel lines at the intake so the compressor bracket can slide far enough forward to get off the 2 studs that have been mentioned....so get the right fuel system O-rings for the 2 steel lines. And DO NOT run the car or do this with fuel pressure. it'll pour everywhere and that just adds to the tension with everything soaked in gasoline. Bleed pressure off to zero then d/c the lines...even then they may drip during the process. be careful...they will flop around and can get damaged. They will only go back one way..so make note of the position when you disconnect those 2 lines.

 

thanks very much.

this is my second flowkooler from summit, used to be liftime warrantee, now only 2 years, what a piece of crap

my shop quoted 275 for labor, another will install an airtex WP for 390.00

 

$275????? *Scratches chin at the thought of saving the back for $275*

 

If you do the job have some non-hardening Permatex sealer to use on the WP gasket and on each retainer bolt thread.

If anything looks rusty, spray on some PB Blaster and let stand over night before turning any bolts.

 

Boy that is the truth, I guarantee they will break the AC bracket at the bolt holes.

 

Actually this is a rather large step. Not a bad idea but could be a big task for someone who isn't an accomplished wrencher

 

Something I found that helps here...

Put the front on jack stands and remove the front tires.

You can stand in the wheel wells straddling the rotor, getting closer to the work and saving your back.

 

amen on this one, if you've never done much mech. work

 

I throw hotel towels over the tires and sit on them......They are like bar stools.

 

Someone point this out to me "after" the fact.....DOH!

The cover is leaking oil.....I should have at least addressed the cover while all of that was off. As it turns out, I get to do all this again to address the timing chain and cover.....Yay for well thought out plans!

 

You'll be more familiar with the procedure now...

Should have that water pump of in 20 minutes the second time

 

^^Yup......and after going in and getting the smog pump twice, the alternator, the water pump, the power steering hoses, you'd think I would have quick release bolts on everything by now....