Soon I will be buying a rebuilt 700r4 from wwwnshiftritetransmission.com. When I talked to him on the phone he said that it came with a stage 1 shift Kit and for $50 more I could move up to a stage 2 if I wanted. I'm running a little more HP than stock but I don't know how much exactly as I lost a couple gears before my dynotune. my question is what's the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 other than a further shift. And is it a good idea on a street car. Thank you for any info.

 

I have the stage 2, it gives you a more firm and jarring shift.

 

I just finished a 700r4 rebuild and did a LOT of research before I did it. i have a few opinions <-- note the word here.

I highly recommend getting the 1987-1/2 and newer version of this trans if you can. It has a redesigned valve body and an improved pump.

I have all the Stage I & II parts in my transmission except the Raybestos Z-Pack (I didn't think I needed it) and the wide Alto band. I heard of problems with the wide band. If the drum isn't perfectly flat across the full width of the band it will burn. It needs to be turned on a lathe, a step some rebuilders skip.

The biggest problem I have with this rebuild is the "Corvette Servo" item. That implies that the rest of the transmission is NOT a Corvette trans. There is a special version of the 700r4 for Corvettes. It has a modified case and other internals. The tailhousing is also different on Corvettes because there is no transmission mount. Corvettes use a C beam to tie the trans and differential together. The output shaft is about 1/2" shorter (but it can be cut down, if needed). Make sure you're getting a Corvette trans from this guy. The Corvette version is identified by the large "V" molded into both sides of the bellhousing, like so:

 

this is mine v marked case

some shift kits also go with an accumulator delete set up,i don't think this is a real improvement since accumulator is known to act like a shock absorber into trasmission,deleting it only give an harsh shifting feel.There are a lot of improvements pressure related like tv boost valve and intermediate valve .500,on the pump you can use 13 vanes rotor over a stock 7-10 vanes(yes it's a pump upgrade),usually a shift kit consists in a custom separator plate with enlarged oil passages and some ceck ball deleting.A common issue fixed with a good shift kit is the throttle valve hang up problem,A small flat spacer is inserted into the new throttle valve spring. This "boot strap" spacer limits spring compression, preventing the valve from sticking. The new throttle valve also has self-cleaning lands, completely eliminating the sticky throttle valve problem.The Third-Second control valve and spring are removed from the valve body and will be replaced with the larger valve and smaller spring . This change allows you to hold manual low gear to any rpm and to downshift to low from any rpm.Small plugs are inserted in the low-reverse clutch, governor circuit and Fourth gear accumulator.Your kit should supply adjustment shims for the 1-2 accumulator piston. These shims partially control 1-2 shift firmness. Two new springs are also installed.This are some features that are common in good shift kit,as result fast and firmer shifting are accomplished and allows you to hold manual low gear to any rpm and to downshift to low from any rpm

 

Good info thanks guys

 

Great guy to talk to here.
http://www.700r4l60e.com/